Surf Survival Course

Very interesting DP, thanks for this thread and bringing a crucial aspect of this sport to light.
Most learn to hold their breath when they learn to swim but there are different elements of mind and body we must learn to control. Not just for big wave hold downs but for everyday, average surf.

 

If you watch even the worst wipeouts at places like Mavericks or Jaws the hold downs never actually last that long if you time how long the person is under. Most are 15 seconds tops. The whole key is just relaxing until it lets you go. Fighting does you no good anyway.....that just burns air. Easier said than done I suppose.

 

I was going to elaborate on the story I told you the other day about when I blacked out and fell in the water but this falls along the lines of the mind and its capabilities.
To re-cap, I didn't remember falling in. I regained consciousness under water but felt at ease immediately. Up I went. Those two things are my only recollection of the event.
I'm very comfortable in water and have had my share of hold downs, some felt like forever. Most times I can prepare meself for a washing. Other times it may be limited. Relaxing and not panicking I believe is key. This is where the brain takes control. Harness that end and leave the rest to the breath.
I still wonder and try to wrap my head around, why I did not breath water on impact and why, underwater I came to, that I didn't take a lung full and how long was I under? I still wrestle with many questions but feel very fortunate to be alive.
All brains have a defense mode but we still need to fuel it with air.

 

Right on DP...I saw a clip on this guy a while back. this is a cool look at his perspective...+1 for sharing.

Not sure I have been held down for more that 15 seconds...but there have been times when the fierceness of the shagging takes it all out of you to where you have a hard time staying calm. Staying calm is critical but it is not the easiest thing to do IMO.

 

Thanks for the perspective!
Fuel for thought...as it were

 

I don't think iv ever been held down longer than 10 seconds,usually like 5 seconds,probably even 3 on the eastcoast.we think its longer because theres a lot going on like spinning in circles riding the wave underwater.

with a full breath I can hold my breath for a minute and 30 seconds.but that's on dry land with no stress.water is different story I can hold my breath for like a minute 10 seconds.if I completely exhale I can only stay under like 30 seconds max.its not always easy going with the flow.they say don't use ur muscles cause they use oxygen.idk.but as far as holding my breath for 5 minutes,i don't think I can ever do that

 

I find free diving has greatly increased my ability to hold my breath. Its another great way to exercise and keep yourself in shape during the flats, which here is waayy too much. I haven't gone much below 20 ft but its all about small exhales. I forget the guy who was on SEAL team 6 that wrote a book about training. They had to swim a certain distance under water, his first attempt failed, the instructor said come up for air again and you're out, so he swam until he blacked out. After he came to he made the cut. Point is he said later they explained as you hold your breath, it turns to carbon dioxide, if you exhale small bursts every 20-30 seconds, you release the dioxide and can stay under longer. Since I starting doing that, I can dive deeper and longer. Of course, you have the time to get a good breathe before. When getting worked over, a deep breath might not be an option, but the technique helps keep the choking feeling at bay and you can think

 

Yeah...didn't watch the thing or read the op post, but gotta relax

Learned that the hard way on the last 15+ swell day whilst paddling out (so already short of breath)

After a ride then a clean up set came through I relaxed on the hold downs - not as bad. 5-7m of neoprene can ruin anyone's day though

 

holding breath not in context is almost pointless to me

if I'm doing 1-2 ims in the pool and struggle through a breaststroke pull out I know I need to work in the pool more....if I can go through it no problem, then I know I'm maintaining ok

also, kicking underwater, and kicking underwater fast, and kicking underwater fast with parachute...anything while heart rate is elevated...or simple pulling with extended no breath breathing pattern

all this done if you're in ok shape

 

In the realm of 1:30-1:45 Trying to get upto 2, on land and at peace. Less after a J, even less right after a drag off said J, don't wanna black out, u know?

 

my dad was a life long surfer he told me about this when i was young how he even knew about that puzzles me but even more is this not commonly held knowledge here?