who here has been surfing this week?

Another awesome morning of waves. High tide spot was on fire! Waist - chest glassy peelers. I rode the LB againe. Waves were soft and easy entry in the mid bar but got hollow on the inside. I was able to beat the close out section on most of them and kicked out at the end of most. Had to punch through on a few to avoid getting slammed on sand. So. Much. Fun.

 

About to go out on my 4th session of this week in a few. Can't say that I've had any stellar ones but there were certainly some fun waves to be had.

Yesterday the boys and I had a spot in S. Jersey basically all to ourselves. Fun sharing a little waist to stomach high slab. Had out the log on some fun little peelers and then the pier pony.

NJ is due for some shoulder to head high waves soon. Patiently waiting.

 

The forecast delivered today, at sunrise there were clean, orderly waist to shoulder high gorgeous waves, bright sunny day with water so warm that my 3/2 mm long suite was too hot. By around 9:00 the wave size came down to about thigh to waist highs, and still clean. Guys were treating the waves like an artist pallette.

I caught two very fun waist high rides that put a glow on my face. These are the kinds of. Days where I used to scor 10-20 rides. Those days are gone now, but because of that, each and every ride is so special and memorable,

And it's a blessing to be able to make it out to the lineup with all the local characters, the good cheer, and graciousness. Even when life is hard, it delivers some pure goodness.

Oh, and Valhalla made it out today, I bet he is still in the water getting lots of fun.

 

Good for you Betty... Feeling better?

 

Wind blew onshore all morning around here, then kind of abruptly died down/went offshore mid afternoon. glassy / lumpy in the 3 foot range. Ended up really fun, and uncrowded since the surf outdid the forecast. 55 air temps helped.

 

Man, what a great day of surf! Almost didn't go cuz the forecast was only 1-3 and I wasn't sure if it would be worth the drive. But I hadn't had solid waves since the last time I was up a month ago and Betty says to go before you know. So glad I did.

The secret inlet was offering clean waist to chest peaking liners with occasional bigger sets. Low 60s air early with some brisk water felt great. No need for sand reconne as the entire beach was working in spite of the high tide. First wave, dry hair. The waves were so easy to get in to and just perfect for me. Plenty of people out but I still had no trouble finding my own space. Shiploads of totally fun long rides. Felt like I could do no wrong on my longboart. After six hours the waves finally faded with the low tide and so did I so I took a last ride to the sand. Suite.

Life is goode. I really feel sorry for people that don't surf on days like today.

 

Contrary to the flat report on surfline, found some glassy little thigh high longboard waves this morning. Nothing special, but better than it's been. Couple fun rides before the tide got too high and it completely shut off (to the point that I had to paddle in, which I hate). Good session overall, but COLD. Fingertips and toes are still numb, even after a hot shower. Not sure if my boots and gloves are starting to fail (I hope not, boots were new last winter and gloves are new this winter) or if that's just par for the course this time of year (especially because the long lulls between sets meant a whole lot of sitting around getting cold and not a ton of paddling).

 

Similar session for me NJsurfer30. I rode the LB on some weak crumbling waist high mush burgers before the tide killed it like it did your session. After a handful of fun rides, I sat there for like 20-25 minutes with nothing really lining up so I ended up taking a wave that fizzled quick and had to paddle in to so that I could get to work / home on time. If I waited for that "last wave" I probably would still be sitting there lol

 

This big north atlantic low is gonna give a nice pulse of swell to just about every state that has any east or northeast exposure today and tomorrow. It's working its magic right now, pushing long period lines down the coast since its taking the low path below Nova Scotia, there is fetch pointed back towards the coast and southward. My guess is Cape Cod, OBX and parts of Florida get the most size, everyone else gets the smallish lines, and of course SNC, SC, and GA get the doughnut...

 

Been pretty flat here in SC. Some hope for choppy waves on Wed. Longest I've been out the water in a quite awhile.

 

Talk dirty to me!

 

man..I love long period swell from distant storms. Quiet glassy ocean with tranquility for easily 5-10 minutes...then you see the dark colors on the horizon and try to figure out while the set is still 300 yards outside where the peak is going to end up shoaling up on the outer bar. Long period....stands up pretty far outside and travels fast: if you aren't able to chase it down snd set it up it just runs away from you. get in early and it ropes down the sandbar. Only stomach to chest high, and only occasional sets but a great late afternoon session.

 

Agreed, long period swell is choice.

 

Strangely enough today was pretty rad... I love groundswell.. Swelly predicted 2ft faces but i saw chest to head high surf on an unnamed beach somewhere in jersy. Because the swell was directly out of the east it was breaking super fast, almost close out status but I pulled into a few barrels and got a couple sweet shoulders. I also took pictures because I didn't think anyone would believe that it was as big as it was...

 

Skunked this AM. You win some and gotta lose some I suppose. Need to get out of NJ.

 

^^^I didn't stick around to see any sets, but it didn't look as good as yesterday, which was pretty good, actually. Found a spot that had some clean lefts.

Funny how these longer period swells feel the bottom, and make the wave kinda warble before they break. Makes for some interesting takeoffs.

 

Amen brother I'm happy I grew up an eastcoast surfer cause it made me a hungry surfer, I'm even happier I left because I actually get to surf now

 

Mitchell you are the man! As predicted, there were waist - chest long make-able groundswell lines rolling in this morning. I rode the LB and snagged a good dozen or so before work. These had some punch to them so I was able to make some steep drops and set my rail early and go for a good 50-75 yards. Great form to the waves too, just a great morning despite it being overcast, grey, and gloomy.

 

Smaller and far less clean/glassy this morning vs. yesterday, but still had a fun session on the longboard. Mostly knee to thigh high, mostly short rides, very section and bumpy and kinda unpredictable with the backwash... but there were some punchy little waist high sections mixed in there too. One of those days where you start paddling for a wave and really have no idea what you're going to get, if it's gonna line up or close out or back off and fade out or what. The first 45 minutes of my session sucked, and I was close to getting out at that point so I could stop by home and take a hot shower before work (once again, it wasn't objectively that cold, but with the lack of paddling and waits between sets I was absolutely freezing, couldn't feel fingers or toes by end of session), but something changed around 7:30. I don't think the waves got any better, I think something just clicked in terms of where to sit and what to paddle for and precisely where to lay on the board and when to stand up, and I started getting a ton of fun rides, still very short but multiple little sections and all the way to the beach on everyone. Objectively speaking I have to concede the waves were pretty sh!tty, but it was probably the funnest session I've had in a few weeks.

 

I got out this morning at my normal spot before the tide killed it. Bout thigh high. Quick rides. The main reason I went today was a quick look at the SNJ forecaste. Flat line______________________________