who here has been surfing this week?

^^^ thanks for sharing the stoke, stanky! Glad to hear you are shredding those ep1c head high heaving bombs!!!

 

pumping!!!! extreme!!!!

to the maxx!!!
and so forth

 

Finally got out yesterday since being layed up last December. I couldn't have picked a better day, clean and chest high with only a handful of people out. I was almost nervous at first, seemed like forever since I'd been out. It took about 10 minutes for one to come to me, and it was focking beautiful. a super long, easy right, man, when you have been out of the water for a while, I just can't explain. I only lasted about an hour and a half, was pretty sloppy and got winded easily, but grinning from ear to ear.

 

Sent you a PM stank. But ill say it here too since its relevant. Peajays thought process was to share stoke. Stories about surfing. POSITIVE GOOD VIBE. Like something you'd read in surfers journal. Anyone in the group can back me in this. Or even peajay. It's not just a hey i went surfing today and it was waist high thing. Not saying that sort of thing isn't welcome. Just pointing it out.

By the way you got a little wordy there yourself. Good job. That's the spirit!

 

Ok, the digression is all good in the hood & fading in the rear view mirror.

Let's get this tread, LegendTread actually, back on track. I'm keen to see next slew of DMV pics from Mitchell, and read more posts from everyone in re surfing.

 

Twice this week, Monday and Tuesday during lunch. The water is warming up. Already looking forward to shedding some rubber.

 

It was fun in NJ this morning. Shoulder high. Btw, are people really comparing NJ/NY bombs to Hawaii. That is a joke.

 

Damn that Mitchell! HA HA I will say, when I see someone has commented on this threade and I see it was Mitchell, I get excited because usually he posts some great pics!!

 

Checking out the belmar cam. SUP on one of the peaks constantly dropping in and not in control of his 60 pound torpedo.

 

That guys been doing this for two years straight in that zone

 

And you have cowered to do nothing about it??
Wimp.

 

I snagged a few on the LB today on incoming high tide. It was a steep angled N / NNE swell with W / NW wind. North - South drift, semi-clean conditions but very fickle with tide and swell angle not being good. Lots of padding and patience to get a few good ones. Waist / stomach high. Coulda found worse things to do.

 

In another week or two I'll have nothing to do and all day to it, outside of a week in July for work and a half business/half pleasure trip to Florida at the end of the month. I'll probably spend a whole week recovering and catching up on this ridiculous sleep deficit, maybe clean the gutters, cut the grass, maybe I'll even clean my bathroom.

Will be on the Gulf in Florida, but if the forecast looks good, I'll see about leaving a couple days earlier and surfing with a friend in the Jacksonville area. I'm not bringing borts on the plane if the forecast is iffy. I'll probably just use one of his.

 

Typical.
Get up early, put wetsuit 6/4 on.
Get gear and board in car.
Drive to beach.
Lotsa wind, ****ty waves.
Drive home.
Put gear back.
Take wetsuit off.
Made no sense to leave the bed.
That is the life of New England surfers.

 

Ahhhhh Barry, should of just gone.....

The original forecast for today was for shoulder high about. Last minute that changed to about thigh/waist. High tide early. Lots of wind. WNW. A sorta side/off shore wind. It's Saturday and i want to surf so i got up early to check it out.

Pulled up to one spot. It actually didn't look terrible. Not good. But somthing to ride. Tide needed time tho drop though. One other guy was checking it too. This guy i surf with allot. He's in his mid 60s, great surfer, super stoked all the time. Like a little grom in a 60 yr olds body. I decided to check another spot and he followed. This other spot is just about 10 min up the road, but is a diffrent island. It handles higher tides better but doesn't handle the WNW wind as well. It was looking punchy there but very disorganized. So we headed back to the original spot and suited up.

I took my mini out. We ended up paddling out just west of were we we're originally looking. It was terrible. Fat and the wind was getting heavier. 20+ mph gusts. Even on his LB he was having trouble getting into them. So we let the wind push is east a bit to the spot we we're originally looking at and found the honey pot. Waves were absolutely terrible but we were having fun. Hooting and hollering for each other and getting wave after wave. If you were in the right spot you could actually get a somewhat peeling little right. Every so often a waist/stomach high bomb would come through and we'd go nuts paddling for it.

By most standards, it was a terrible day. Windy. Cold. Small. Weak. But hey, at least it wasn't raining. Had good company and had something to ride and fool around on. We ended up surfing for an hour and a half.

Sometimes you just got to go. If it's terrible you get out. But you might actually enjoy yourself despite conditions.

 

I did a barry too, drove around, checked some spots, then drove home. Low tide in the am would have made for a real fun session, but alas, was not meant to be. I didn't realize the offshores were going to be 20 - 30mph+, which didn't help the delicate swell one bit.

 

Yeah man i hear you. Honestly if i didn't run into the older guy who was stoked to get out, i would of pulled a Barry also haha. I paddled out thinking if its not fun, at least ill get to paddle around and get a bit of a work out in

Low tide would of been key. That's basically what made this sesh any fun at all. Despite the high tide this one little peak a bit inside was actually standing up a bit. Granted it would fatten out. But if you positioned yourself right you'd have enough umph you make it a little worthwhile.

 

Did we just coin a new SI term?? i.e...."pulling a Barry"?

 

gas chambers last night was ooodles of fun
thin lipped tubes, shoulder hi plus, got to crank a few turns and get a view for a moment or two
saw some chic who was so curvy and fit I was missing set waves trying to look, but not make it look like I was not looking. I dont think I succeeded

 

Possibly. It does have a nice ring to it.

And stank, that sounds like perfection. The waves sound pretty damn fun too!