who here has been surfing this week?

get some man!

 

dude your time will come once more. the human body is incredibly resilient. keep at the p.t. and proactive lifestyle and youll be getting pitted once more

 

This dude has bad hips, even walking is painful. He was pro quality when younger. So he rides a 10' board on his Stomache. He gets barreled, therefore, all the time. His stoke level is high and is out there any rideable day....I wonder if you can do that with your bad knee until it heals.

 

Intense, and amazin'.....way to go BB!

 

must feel like the best freedom of all! had an Achilles rupture that got infected 8 years ago. they took half of my left calf and put it in a hole in the back of my leg, they removed a large amount of dead tissue! 7 surgeries included skin graph. 2 years outta work, never thought id climb a ladder never mind surf! I tell people the scar is from a shark.I'm so happy that you've been surfing, must give you a new perspective. I know you were travelling through HELL, I'm glad you kept going! wish you the best bro! have fun out there!

 

Caught some fun waist to stomach high waves this morning after missing a couple of weeks. Burning up in a full suite. Time for a springer or even just a vest. Felt goode to be in the water!

 

had a scope last month (partial medial meniscectomy, fat pad scar resection, cartilage debridement, etc). Now, I'm having problems with scar tissue, swelling, stiffness and biomechanical issues. Range of motion is very limited and can barely walk without debilitating pain (even under the influence of 800mg ibuprofen). Walking across the beach is not possible...much less carrying a log.

Right before the scope, I could barely make it to the shore with a board in hand. I tried the stomach riding thing...but it sucked. Not even close to the control and stoke of stand up surfing (plus, just straddling the board made my knee feel like death for a week after).

 

and the hits keep on coming>>>late season bliss, windy friday afternoon and glassy saturday morning

surfing a well overhead left wedge with only 3-4 guys while another 4-6 guys took turns on the right, bright blue thundering lips at a spot that doesnt allow cameras

fkn hell this is what dreams are made of

time for lunch and daddy duty

 

Surfed dumpy beach breaks the past two days. Nothing special. Hoping the winds improve and cooperate the next couple days.

 

Just got back from the islands... lots and lots of waves, and lots and lots of diving. One or both every day. Totally stoked on how fun it was, and what a great change of pace. If I had the money, I wish I could live like that for the rest of my life. Fresh fish, fresh fruit, fresh greens... every meal, including breakfast!

Now back to cold, brown water and white people with bad attitudes.

 

surfed today, rode one wave...Freakn BACK. And it looked fun. Hurt it last week surfing, pain was gone figure I would be good to go...not the case, stand up and TWINGE. Think Iam done for a couple weeks till it heals up totally. I really hate my back at times...gettin old sucks man!

Hope everyone has a great Easter!

 

Fun 2 hour Easter sunday sesh. Little bit of funk on it that grew but the swell had just enough east in it to get some long and fast lefts. Rode a 3 fin 9' sporty log for first hour and a 7'10" stretched egg for the reminder. Stomach high sets w/ fun reforms, few turns with mostly speed burns and fun high trim sections bouncing off of mushy humps when they presented themselves. Had a "last wave I gotta go" 4 times and changed my mind when I got to the sand hungry for another. Best part was I did not have to wait for anyone- no kids, easy parking, no crowd, just one old lonely geezer out talking to himself and singing that Ty Seagal "Black Magic" song that was stuck in my head.
Nirvana? Maybe.

 

What island you go to? Its been nice so far this spring....we are already getting some summer surf as well as the last bits of winter. It was head high plus some on the sets yesterday, and that was maui where its usually smaller than everywhere else over here

 

sorry to hear. I've hurt my back a few times and it always took a long time for me to return.

First time I really messed it up was a skatepark slam for which I had to sleep only on my stomach on the floor (carpet) for a month before the pain started to diminish...couldn't skate for a year after and just standing for long periods of time ached really bad. Few other not so bad back situations, but they all kept me out of sports for at least 3 months each. Good thing is backs have tons of blood flow and they usually heal well...as long as you stay off it long enough.

 

Glad youve been scoring, NS has been fun city for weeks and long range has it continuing past months end

 

Long range here is flat until October, and it has been flat since mid-March.
New England, the surfing mecca for morons...

 

fun 2-3 foot lines on Delmarva this morning. clean with an offshore breeze and downright warm from the minute the sun came up. 2 hours on the mini simmons felt so good.

 

USVI and BVI... and a lot of little islets in between.

 

Tortola, per chance?

 

Back injuries really blow... mine flares up ever so often and it's been over 10 years since it happened. I did surf today really fun day. Caught more waves in this session then I have in a long time. Surfed a couple great peaks solo and really got to work on my backside game today. Some of the set waves were surprisingly powerful and long.