who here has been surfing this week?

Pretty wild day of surfing yesterday.......literally. Surfed in the morning as the swell dropped then grabbed the camera to shoot the lunch time session. There were whales and dolphins all over the place just outside the surf line. What a show.

 

Great whale pic, what a treat.

 

wheww buoys... great long wknd. lotta surf, went thru just about the whole quiver. thi to chest all wknd, some chop in the mornings and evenings but lines were shown and taken. Surprisingly in the mid afternoons- around mid-tides, it cleaned up and provided nice hollow waves with the same peaks when it was incoming hi tide. Gotta take my first dip in the shorty Pride board, but i didn't think it was clean enough to do too much with it -but it was good n squirrely at the same time. Also stoked i'm not burnt to a crisp

 

Got out 4 days last week. Pretty much went through the quiver, too, starting with my 5'7" mini simmons for some knee high mush, moving to a fun board, then my long board when I wasn't getting enough speed, then going short with rocker when the waves got steep.

Caught a left that actually impressed my wife, which is no easy task, lol...

 

Was that OC? The whale photo is awesome... I was hoping to find some baitfish but appearently they were just south!!!

 

Not in NJ.

 

Great pics CJ.

What the hell kind of bird is that? Looks like the evil spawn of a communion between a seagull and Ziggy Stardust lol

 

Very fun lines this morning, got skunked yesterday plus had to work, but this morning more then made up for it. Sweet pics there CJ

 

Great pic of the whale!

 

Some decent little waves this morning... not as clean as I had hoped with local winds putting a bit of a bump on it. No pop to it, so the log was the call... thigh to waist high with a few belly high waves mixed in. But the interesting thing was all the bunker moving through the surf zone. My guess is that the spring run is turning on.

Water's warming up a bit, too.

 

Fun sesh this morning. fourth day in a row of summer-type waves. winds cooperated early. Knee-waist high soft lined up waves perfect for a log or mini-simmons. around noon the wind shifted NW, picked up and the air temps are dropping. Water temps seem at least 8-10 degrees warmer than what they were three weeks ago.

 

fun in my neck of the woods. the right hand slab next door to my house has been throwing hard these past few days. overhead doom drops to sometimes a barrel. 3-4 hours a day in the five mil is way more tiring then 6 to 8 in boardies but the good dope and beer makes you not care as much

 

That is a Royal Tern.

 

More of the same today but no whales.

 

lol that kids face cracks me up for some reason

 

Saturday was VAS, 30 mph out of the east northeast, with a shoulder high swell underneath, I went to a couple spots,saw everyone paddling and eating it on the drop,so I bodysurfed for a while, got a good workout,and lots more waves than anyone else.

Yesterday it was still honking out of the east, but more manageble, the secret locals only spot was packed, with chest high plus waves ricocheting off the jetty and some chunky random punchy rights popping up. 25 people out on three peaks, half not catching anything, three guys catching most of the sets, the rest of us getting random waves, and some spectacular wipeouts. Lots of fun, I got a few good ones, and ate it nicely on a right that kept getting bigger till it went overhead, then closed out, so I went straight vert and cleared the lip then fell back into the pit and got swallowed by the foam. Fun, fun, fun.

Shame on you young shredders for not regulating, it's like a kook fest with all the randome kookies clogging up the zone. Pu$$y a$$ millenial poseurs. They can surf and catch waves and make sections, but no one shralps, or hardly shreds anymore, I'm not joking, no airs, no fins free off the lip- slider combos, only a couple good hacks that you could see the spray from the lineup. I'm not imagining this, the new crew is lame. Just sayin'.

I'm not complaining, just sayin'. Mo' waves for this old fart. And the bar is now lower, so I still have my dignity out there amongst the young pop guns. Life is goode!

 

Inspirational! Take nothing for granted. We on this forum live a charmed life. Even if disabled now, we have all tasted the awesomeness of the pure stoke. I pray for all of you who are rehabbing to get back soon!!! I'll never be the same as I was, so what. But just to have tasted it is a true gift, and to still enjoy the drop is a blessing. It's worth every minute of effort.

"The will has to be greater than the skill" Muhammed Ali aka The Greatest

 

The will has to be greater than the skill! GOOD STUFF!

 

I got about 4 hours in today. It got a little small right before sunset and it started to fill up early in the evening. They all missed when it was good, before they got there!

Aside from a business trip late next week and a week and a few days in July, I pretty much have off until September. Plenty of time to surf, but the forecast looks not very promising the next few days.

So I have a couple days to clean the gutters, cut the grass, replace a fuel pump in my 93 Mustang that's been out of commission for over 2 months, due to my heavy work schedule and maybe clean my bathroom!

 

Solid post dude and very true. The older I get the better I was....but it does not keep me from putting forth the effort to get that "drop". +1SIS