Those look so tasty! I haven't surfed in a week and a half I pulled a lower back muscle and am about recovered so hopefully I can get some this weekend.
Pretty good day. Got a good 4.5 hours in yesterday. Pretty unexpected, as the forecast sucked for today when I looked earlier in the week. Might be the last of anything until next Thursday, unless the forecast changes again. Have **** to do today and Saturday. Just remembered I leave for a Floridian business trip on Thursday! DOH!
Went out yesterday...waves were crappy, but still had a few good rides on me G&S Egg. Water still 44*F. Will change to 4/3 soon.
Its firing once again this morning. For now you all will just have to settle for a cell phone pic of the back of my camera. Lots of photos to process tomorrow. A morning my 12 year old and his friends will never forget.
Hadn't surfed in about a week and a half. Partially due to conditions and partially because iv picked up a few weeks of on call shifts. Getting that engagement ring for the lady. Going custom so still some details to iron out, but down payment time is coming up and I'm trying to soften the blow. Even though I'm on call i was still planning on getting out this morning. Would make it a shorter sesh. It was really fun. I didn't check it. Just got to the beach, suited up, grabbed the mini and paddled out at 6 for sunrise. Though there was no sun. Just clouds. At first glance it was looking pretty weak. No one out. Me and a buddy paddled out and i noticed it was much better then it looked from shore. Waist- stomach high with a few slightly larger sets sprinkled in. The east swell direction was causing a bit of a drift but nothing some extra paddling couldn't fix. I caught a few really good ones. The left's would peel slower offering a mixture of casual cruisey surfing and some slightly more aggressive turns. The rights had this strange angle to them. They would stand straight up and just race down the line. Between the drift and catching wave after wave i got fairly tired quickly. As the morning went on it got more crowded with kooks on LBs and the dropping tide was resulting in more closeouts. After about 2 hours i let the drift take me off the main peak, snagged a smaller left, and called it quits for the day. Even though iv gotten used to the mini, it still surprises the hell out of me every wave. It is easy and hard to surf at the same time, depending on conditions. The speed on the rights i got was incredible. No other board in my quiver would be able to stay in front of them except maybe the LB. The lefts were prefect for it. Cruisey lofty up and down the face type surfing then a top turn of some sort to shed some speed off, then repeat. I actually botched my first wave. The speed that board generates can be tough to control on some turns of your not prepared. After that first wave though everything went smoothly. I get so stoked every time i ride that thing.
Pretty fun the last few days. Yesterday was cool b/c the frontal boundary stayed just N until 4pm (near dead high tide). Stayed glassy and fun for the incoming. Then onshore once I was spent. Had a peak to myself for two hours with only a few guys around otherwise throughout the day. 3/2 no boots (admittedly my feet had a little numbing towards the end) Feels good to feel the wave tank gauge move a bit fuller! Also, the pelicans were shredding too. I love when I'm waiting for a set and they glide by skirting along an unbroken swell.
Got another fun little sesh today. Was not planning on going originally since swell would be smaller, tide would be an hour later and deeper. But my lady told me i should ast least check it. And i knew she was right so i went. Got there early again to give it a look. Really pretty and clean waist high sets, but a bit deep. Have the tide some time to drop and got on it. Surfed alone for the majority of the sesh with the exception of this seal that was hanging out with me. Set waves were the only waves worth going for. A bit soft but a nice long line to cruise on. As the tide dropped i saw less and less set waves, but the smaller thigh high guys were becoming more worth it. Didn't plan on being out for long but ended up having allot of fun. Caught a ton of waves. I'm actually pretty shot despite how small and easy of a day it was. Fun weekend. Looks like we may get some size by mid week. Yeeeeeeeeew!