Can't we all just be happy that we're not great lake surfers or Gulf surfers or Jamaican surfers or Israel surfers. I'm going to buy a slater wave pool once that shyte gets made bigger and less perfect. I want wonky peaks and lurging ledges. And I'm only going to let locals ride it, no public. I have 5 million right now but I bet what I'm looking for would be more like 8 million. For that I could buy a house on the north shore.
Expecting chest high waves in orange county or nicaragua all summer long IS realistic. Most don't have time to bother posting from the west coast. Too busy surfing probably. Most of the posts in that thread are small waves or magic with a camera. People raving about knee to thigh high waves.. Thigh high waves? You're in LI right? Only a few months of the year where I'd personally find it warm enough to even bother with that and it would have to be barreling and got some period/punch to it, but that's just me. It's always funny how people try to downplay what they're missing because of work/family commitments regarding living on this side of the ocean. I see the same thing in skiing forums where people who live in NJ/nyc metro think they're not missing anything by not living in jackson hole Wyoming. Yeah...right.
Well, neither surfing or skiing are the "end all be all" for most persons. Most who move for surfing or skiing, or drop careers for it, eventually find out they made a mistake, a big one. And that is most but not all. Those for whom it is not a mistake are either insane, on drugs, or "clown faces"!! Over the 55 years I have been surfing I have seen careers sacrificed, families destroyed, and even a couple of suicides at the end of a long mistaken path. Be happy in Rhode Island; I am happy in NH. Be happy were you are and with what you have. And never put all of your eggs in the same basket. An old "adage", but frightfully accurate.
If you catch NY or NJ on a good day it's more fun than anything I travel around the world to surf. and where I live you can always find uncrowded waves and it always barrels. Longboard game is mandatory EC surfers actually have money Our water is clean EC pisses me off only when it goes flat for a month, and it will, doesn't even matter if it's mid surf season. Then when we finally get pumping waves dipshytes Colin Herlihy and Raven show up on jetskis, declare it unpaddleable and snake the whole line up. If your reading this Colin Fu@k you!!!
Exactly. That's my point. People were giving her hell for not surfing in the winter and I simply stating that if they themselves were truly that obsessed with surfing they would move so they could surf everyday in good conditions. Many people have made the move out west and it worked out great. If you're a nurse for example, you can easily make a lateral move. Plenty of jobs out that way.. Most people in LA probably aren't even from LA and things are going well for them. Some didn't work out. Some stayed put and it didn't work out. That's life. You choose your own priorities. I'm not planning on moving out west. Never was Family is more important to me. I'm just simply not pretending/kidding myself that for surfing the west isn't that much better than here. It is. For many the move out west worked out. Depends on the individual. There's more to life than surfing for me.
You said it, brother... Comparing your spot/coast/board/style/"core-ness"/ect. to others is a sure path to lifelong frustration and disappointment. Be happy, and thankful, for what you do have, and care not about what you don't.
RI you got to learn to read man. Seriously. Downplaying what were missing? I said multiple times east coast isn't close to west coast or Hawaii. Just saying it's better than you make it sound. Which is pointless because apparently you can't read for sh!t. By the way you know what's really funny? In your original post you talked about guys trying to sound hardcore.... and now here you are talking about thigh high waves aren't worth it. You must be really hardcore man. To good to have fun on a thigh or waist high wave. That's core man. I'll be in RI this upcoming weekend. Let's meet up. I'll teach you how to read.
True, I've traveled and surfed waves around the world that made my home break look like a turd on top of a turd sandwich, but when my home break is going off, there is *absolutely* no place I'd rather be.
I was thinking the same thing. The term "surfer" is used by anyone these days. 5 years to catch a wave. She really does suck. Doesn't surprise me she started surfing when Blue Crush came out.
^^^ This. I haven't surfed many places in my short tenure of wave boarte riding and I'm not a particularly goode "surfer". I know my area is about as turdy as it gets for surf on the EC. But, man, when it's on there is definitely no place I would rather be than my home break even when I know it's probably better at some other spots fairly nearby. There's nothing like a solid NNE swell hitting my favorite sand bar that I know better than anybody due to my propre and thorough sand reconne tekneeks (Thanks frosty!). The swell angles down the beach and you can see the sets hit a half mile away and get yourself set up in anticipation. Best thing is there will be nobody else around except perhaps a couple of friends. There's no place like home.
LOL Rachel Max Load is the one who said weed legalization is bad and that CBD has the same effects as THC