So many reasons why we surf. This is a wonderful article that captures the sense of awe in this group of daily ocean swimmers. It certainly matches one of the reasons I am addicted to surfing. https://mobile.nytimes.com/2017/05/...mtyp=cur&_r=0&referer=https://t.co/qmf7TDcyYl
Great article, Betty. Thanks for sharing. Swimming or surfing in a pool could never compare to being in the ocean. I consider myself fortunate to be able to experience it regularly as I have been for as long as I can remember.
"... the vastness of the ocean and all it contains..." Yup. It's small wind choppe at the moment, but it's gonna contain me in a few minutes. Thanks, Betty.
[video=youtube_share;uU9Y1sNs1rs]http://youtu.be/uU9Y1sNs1rs[/video] its unbelievable, its just tube city!
For those glassy early mornings at sunrise and those early evenings at moonrise....oh, and the chicks.