who here has been surfing this week?

It was 6ft @ 10 seconds minus 2 foot @ 4 seconds: Head high wind slop on the incoming tide, a paddle fest as the reforms jacked up off the jetty as they came across the shipping channel, producing random bowls and a few jagged lines mostly rights. Nice drops with a need to pump to avoid the wash. Fun. Five guys out, crowd no factor due to constant incoming E windswell. The 6'6" Orion swallowtail made the bouncy drops easy, and duck dived quite well, but after a couple hours it was time to go back to work. Life is gooode!

 

first time posting a pic so may screw it up. this is several days ago at Piddlys.

 

All flat here. Rode the wave runner for a few hours though. It was really hot today and the last two days. It will be another day pushing 90 tomorrow. It will probably be enough to make the average high for this month match the average highs for the month of May, with all the pathetically cool 55-62 degree days we've had this month.

 

Since Mother's Day it's been utter flatness here. Glad I got out on Sunday. Water temps have jumped into the mid 60s this week with air temps in the 90s. Time to bring out the shortie suit. Itchin' to get in the water. May just go out for a paddle.

 

Was sick on Wednesday, but knew from the fourcasting models that swell was approaching on Thursday plus i had to pickup some stuff from the ol folly place. what i thought would be a small crowd cuz SI and Surflin were predicting knee hi, was the complete opposite at the Washout. crowded with surfers Thurs afternoon w/ incoming hi tide. rides didn't carry out long but waist to chest w/ semi chop. got one session in before i completely ran out of steam. but i'm feeling better, ready for some waves churning this wknd - going to the lesser known spots since the summer surfers have made their full arrival

 

I've been trying to convince myself to paddle out into onshore slop this week but I just haven't mustered up the motivation.

 

Oh, go ahead, it's so fun. I got out in it the last two evenings. Big mess with water moving every direction. Probably would have been better with higher tide than I was able to go. Even at mid-tide it's really shallow out. I'll get more through the weekend. Better than not surfing. I bet somebody is going to drown here. It's the middle of rip current season and local beach goer morons are hitting the beaches for the first time. Happens every year.

 

I might go if I get out of work early today. I'm just being picky and lazy lol

 

I hear ya. It's difficult to get motivated for. I went to the secret inlet this past Saturday with my buddy. Even though it was much smaller than we hoped for, the super clean knee to waist high liners were so much more fun than the power choppe we're getting now. I know that the summer flatness is just around the corner so I'll get what I can until then.

 

Right on, glad you got some. Last summer was pretty consistent up here last year if I recall so I'm not toooo worried, but it's hit or miss for sure.

 

Surfing life in the Bahamian shadow is a different ball of wax my friend. It takes more effort. The trips upcoast will become more frequent. Have surf wagon, will travel. On a highway to swell...

 

Whatever it takes!

 

Sing that to AC/DC music.....

 

I was sweating profusely on the way out to the beach yesterday (sick) and blowing snot rockets when i was out there. totally worth it up here, which prob means worth it down there. #SaltySnotRocquets

 

Sounds tastey.

 

Nothing like getting worked in some big choppe and resultant saline nasal flush to help clear out those #SaltySnotRocquets.

 

felt like summer this morning in all respects. Hot offshores, water warming up, soft rippable short period mush. The 5'5" Chemistry felt SO good sliding around on these nugs.

 

soooo jealous.would be perfect for this weather

 

This morning it was flat, like yesterday, and the day before, and the day before that, and before that again...ad infinitum.......

 

every day since i started work a week ago has been fun at the jetty. Head high tubes or bigger and varying degree of glassyness. lots of ramps and a couple runners. I am super thankful to the ocean and powers at be becasue ive had to train some new year rookies from the inner city who never did anything with their lives or walked in the neature or anything let alone dug handline or cut down a tree.

Managed to score 1-3 hours per day in the ocean after work with no drive time because its the beach in front of my apartment and my work is 2 blocks away. The waves are my only sanctuary. well kinda.

today a big sealion stared me down less then 10 feet from my face. 3000lb plus. Four of his buddies were behind him growling and baring their teeth at me.

I just thousand yard stared through them and didnt back up or be a b i tch cause otherwise theyd chase me. They are the true locals and i am their b itch but so far they allow me to exist. This soul crushing government work is paying off by zen interaction with the locals.