And And it's light until like 8pm every night so the surfing window is way, way bigger. And light at 5am for dawn patrol.
I caught what were probably the smallest rideable waves I've ever caught yesterday. It was probably exactly shin high. But the wind backed off completely and it was so glassy it was actually kind of rideable and fun, if that makes any sense. I took the fish out and managed to get to my feet a few times; got a fun little rail grab left that just zipped. Water is still friggin' cold. Went booty and glove-less yesterday, and booties would have been welcome. Today tried the same trick with the small waves, but there was a chop on it from the wind and it simply wasn't rideable on the fish. A longboard could have eaked out a few when the tide was right. Lifeguard stands are out and it is definitely getting kookier in the water. Such is life. Hoping the cold keeps the crowds down this weekend. Not likely, but one can hope.
Finally caught a semi-secret "locals only" spot last night. Been there 100 times and never saw it break. Chest to shoulder and peeling off fast with a slight side offshore wind, while the rest of the coast was overhead and totally blown out. Check one off the bucket list.
Me either. Every time I plan to go the winds get sh!tty or it drops to nothing. Just bad timing and now we have the hoards on the way. Unless we get a freak epic, I'm pretty much only surfing during the week until September.
Dude! You got one already!? Give me the deets homie. Stoked for you. Hope it treats you well. Mine is so damn fun, can't ever imagine not having one in the quiver now. Its a must. Looks like there may be some waves Saturday aground here. Been pretty bleak around these parts for a week or two. But man i hate surfing memorial day weekend. Effing depressing
Ey boys and gals just moved back to NE after living in WA for six years. Tomorrow looks to be the first decent swell since I've been back on the east. I used to hit up Ngansett years ago. Hoping its not packed. Worried about a good surf day on the start Memorial weekend...
Paddled out at lunchtime yesterday. It was sunny, less than waist high, bumpy, nothing special. Then dark clouds came, wind picked up, the heavy downpour hit, and visibility dropped way down...but no lightning. The rain lasted about 15 min. There were only 2 of us out. The storm cleaned things up a lot after passing: nice, glassy, 2-3 ft and peeling. Then I had to go back to the office.
yesterday evening was pretty good sideshore waves. kinda wish i brought a bigger board, but took one 6'4" caravanning it down to the Washout. chest, lotta ppls out. not enough volume or several inches added would've helped ideally. had only one good right w a couple turns and a cutback at the end. the rest in the 90 min were nothing to mention. this morning was small, sideshore to onshore thi hi. nothing special there, but at least i had the right board - 9'4" LB beastin it
Went to the beach with the wife Wednesday evening for just a walk and/or swim. Wind was ripping from the south and it turned out there was some small short period SE choppe that was surfable. I keep a foamie in the car 24/7 just for such emergency situations (surf emergency?) so I grabbed it and caught some waves for aboot an hour while the wife did some beach combing. Thursday the winds backed off and went SW but the small SE swell remained and cleaned up pretty nice. I waited for the tide to drop some and hit the beach with my longboarte expecting to surf maybe for an hour or so since it was so small. Nobody at the beach because it was overcast and rainy. No sand reconne needed cuz I know this sandbar like the back of my hand. The waves were knee to thigh high but very clean and much more fun than I thought they would be. I surfed through a couple of downpours and the wind died down to just a light breeze. The water glassed off so pretty and the waves got very fun for an hour or two considering their (or there) size. There were occasional bomb sets in the waist high range giving some long rides. I ended up surfing for over four hours. So, I got to surf two days that I wasn't even expecting to surf at all. Suite! I'll take whatever I can get considering there's not much on the horizon. Life is goode. I feel sorry for people that don't surf.
You are not kidding. People all over the place at my locale this morning. It used to be a quiet beach but more surfers have found out about it. It's gotten more popular over the years and today starting the official kook fest. It was fun watching a bunch of them not make the paddle out and keep up with the current though, lmao. It's always good to keep your place at the peak without much competition.
super fun at Indian River yesterday afternoon and this morning till the tide killed things. Clean and offshore waist/chest peelers and nobody out! Some of headish ones rolled through yesterday, hope the foul weather keeps the crowds light. Get on it!