who here has been surfing this week?

Went surfing today, waist high kinda fun on a floaty board.... then I got a text.....buddy of mine got chomped on by a man in the grey suite, I had left and went to Sebastian for low tide when it happened

here gnarley sh!t...

 

He got over 350 stiches......I'm surprised I didn't see Betty out there first thing this morning.

 

Oh Fvck!! That's gnarly!!!

 

Sh!t son

 

Water was so clear today too, lots of jellies. Fun 2-3 with offshores in the morning. I think up north got it better than Brevard.

 

Clean 1'-2'. Fun on the longborte.

 

Daaaaayum!

 

That sucks! Hope he gets better.

 

This 10-12 sec swell hanging around all week does get good here on the higher tide with the right wind. Still cold, though still stoked.

 

It was solid knee high drainers at the Juno Pier today, and other than the crowd, and an over exuberant lifeguard on break with his rescue board who couldn't stand up but insisted on taking off on every minuscule set wave, it was fun. I caught some long peedling lefts and rights, all the way to the beach, and it started raining so we were surrounded by water, and a really hot chick was out, along with one old notorious buddy who couldn't stop talking, so it was almost like really surfing. Kind of. Life is goode.

 

flat

 

He kept talking about how good the Air Force base was down in PR, I wanted to send him back down there and blow it up. LOL . My dark green longboard matches my jealousy for anyone riding actual waves.

 

Your turn againe.

 

arms have gone from costantly sore to paddling the entire time is no longer an issue. Today surfed some of the better waves ive had in a while (two days ago may have been better but all these sessions are running together now so each feels like the best one ive had in a while) Really f ucking windy, but overhead running lefts that you could surf all day at a not so secret spot off the highway near my town.

only guy out as is par for this neck of the woods.

The wave was perfectly similar everytime, and there was a jobos esc toilet bowl effect and rip that let you catch a left into the rip, and return back out instantly for another one that was almost always waiting for you.

Catch the wave, one or two big cutbacks on the fish to get into the pocket and then snap to the other rail in anticipation of the blob hit the bar and turn into a tube or a running wall that granted you a nice air section at the end.

wind was slightly side/onshore so it was perfect for airs

Landed one of the biggest airs ive gotten on my 5-8 twinzer fish. Probably a 6 foot wave that i boosted at least 4 or 5 feet out of with a frontside indie grab. Smashed it down rode a few feet and got taken out by the detonating lip behind me. these past few weeks have felt like a cool water skatepark.

been out everyday since the start of may for a few hours after work minus maybe 3 days. sure that will change soon once the fires kick up but got to earn my keep somehow and get ready for travelling this winter. thinking indo (off season) portugal, or back to central america.

 

Hey Dog! Sorry I missed you this morning. Sent you a PM for the backstory. That's a very nasty shark bite. Is there a story to it?

The ocean was pretty gorgeous today, clean and clear to the bottom, mostly knee to thigh highs and I saw some nearly waist highs, or at least my waist, roll through. It was cloudy so there wasn't the relentless hot Florida sun and the water was refreshing 78. Zero wind.

My husband engineered today's trip to the ocean and my crew was there to help out too. I got my wave which I am so grateful for. And to paddle out against the easy incoming to get to the lineup was pure joy. You all know that feeling, you flop on your board for the first paddle out of the day and all of your cares fall away, thinking stops, time dilates and there is nothing more than the moment you're in.

Valhalla was there today and I am sure he surfed his brains out. It was fun to introduce my husband to him, to my crew and to the characters at the beach. Such a great community of surfers.

 

Pura vida. Keep the
stoke alive and
spread the vibe

 

Oh I almost forgot, while I was experiencing near death like conditions today at The Peak, there was this guy, all tattted, full sleeves, jacked, with a flat top. And he paddled soooo ghey, he took his hand and folded it back towards his wrist before he did his down stroke, and I know I sound ghey for noticing but it was sooo boring and I almost said something to him but he prolly could have scuffed me up and after posting on another threaddde aboot not starting strife, I thought it would be wise to just be quiet for once. He didn't even catch one wave.

 

Lmao I understand!

 

I have The Forum to thank for my goode behavioure. Mucho grassy ass mi amigos and amigas!

 

It was fun riding the monster pole today! 2-3 foot long lefts and glassy all morning.