more surf fun surf today. Got a drop so steep i had to pig dog it backside and grab rail on the way down or it would have pitched me. love those. winds dead and im sure its good somewhere. desire to drink and play civilization higher then surf right now. arms are noodles.
So the shark did not bite you because it knew you taste like, sound like, surf like.....sh1t?? hahhahahahahaha!!! Good morning Archie , ya fvckwad!!!
Lingering ENE swell hanging around the waist high range early morning today, as the tide came in there was one or two that could have been a bit larger. It lasted about 90 minutes from first light until the incoming tide got too deep. I had a blast picking them off one after another off of this very consistent sandbar. Catch one, make it, kick out, paddle out, another is coming, spin and go, rinse repeat. Nobody on it but me till I was about to leave when a couple of people way down the beach paddled out. Saw several fins having breakfast, but nothing to worry about. It's just that time of year. Water felt great, nice cool and refreshing.
Swam into a few today... visibility about 3'. Say osprey, dolphins, and bunker... and a lot of pale sweaty people.
This great month + stretch has continued through this weekend. Surfed about 9 hours combined over the last 2 days. It was a little crowded due to people down for the weekend, but it wasn't really THAT bad either. It almost seemed like a lot of locals and regulars stayed out of the water, just to avoid all the Benny's. I think I've surfed for 13 of the last 15 days or something like that. Probably at least 20 days in the past 30 days. Looks like it might continue tomorrow and hopefully into Tuesday.
i was able to put in Saturday morning for some clean waist highz by the Washout. What was four of us turned into about 20 on that block stretch within hours. luckily, a buddy and i managed to have enough before we dipped out of there trying to battle it out. took the LBs and gave us some yardage down the lines, very smooth and content by morning's end. went after it on Sunday morning for leftovers, but there was a bit of a chop to it all. took a smaller board to handle the chop but no great rides on that morning. fortunately my buddy said he had several good ones on my LB since his is at the shop for repairs, so it wasn't a complete loss of a day. that's was the fourth consecutive day of my run at the water, so i wasn't throwing a complete fit
Got out twice yesterday before the wind came up. Nothing above waist high. 1st sesh on the groveler. 2nd sesh on the 6'10" single fin. This morning just a dawn paddle on the LB. couple knee high peelers. Saw a whale and it's calf only about 20-30 yards past the lineup but what was odd was there was a dolphin mixing it up with them. IDK what's up with that.
The streak ended today. Looked like some mediocre longbortable waves today, but we decided with the abundance of surf these past several weeks, it wasn't even worth putting on the suite and getting in. I was going out for dinner in the early evening and that definitely played a part in it as well. Heard the waves were better earlier in the morning. Had a long 10+ mile bicycle ride though. Speaking of suits, I'm hoping to lose mine in the next several days, after these couple of really hot days hopefully push the water up above 65 degrees. Currently is 63 degrees. It was a hot one during that bike ride today, think it got up to 93 degrees.
There was a fun little bump after work yesterday. It was grey / overcast and gloomy out but the water was warm, semi-glassy, and the waves were consistent in the waist high range with bigger ones on the sets for a good 2hrs before the tide started to kill it at dark. I had it all to myself at a popular spot. I'll take what I can get this time of year.
Last Friday I rearranged my schedule (ie-blew off work) and the swell was bigger than expected. It was solid chest to shoulder high liners from the north, with minimal drift and sunny skies. The Juno Pier was holding best, and the kiddies are out for summer so it was kinda crowded but lots of waves and consistent sets of 4 waves or more every couple minutes, along with the shredders catching long rides, kept things spread out.. I needed this. Lot's of family issue lately. It was great to go out for a couple hours, feel and spread good vibes and surf fun long lefts. I had my 6'6" Natural Art Pete Dooley shaped round nose round tail high volume wave piggie. It paddles real fast, and goes real fast and picks up speed on turns if ridden well. One wave I got at least seven or eight backside off the lips, one of the best waves I've had it was like a wave machine. There was one very hot wahine who snagged a couple set waves head high on her longboard, that I would have gotten, but I was a bit inside. All I could do was enjoy the moment and hoot. The next day, Saturday, was smaller, and more inconsistent, but I found a deserted longboard spot, Toilet Bowls, if you think I'm naming a secret spot you are as old as I am, no one knows where it's at. I could see it feather from a popular spot that was breaking on the beach, drove up, walked up some more and surfed knee to thigh high peelers behind shallow rocks, but over sandy bottom. It looked scary for small surf because you end up over shallow reef, but at the end of the line, I slapped down backwards on the foam, so no breaky boart. Had my leash tied properrly and all. Last wave was almost 100 yards, just a zipper trying to keep up with the lip. Life is goodde. (Just got a root canal, so I'm dry locked for a bit - party time).
Extremely small waves in RI today, but surprisingly rideable. When I first pulled up, it looked so fun. You know how it can be super small, but if the wind is straight offshore and the wave is peeling perfectly, even a knee high wave can look super fun? Well that's what it looked like. I got like one set and then the tide came up just a bit too much and really killed the consistency. But I stuck it out through the tide change and even though the wind picked up onshore, I was able to score another hour when the tide dropped and it got decent again. 2.5 hours and a bunch of little waves. I can't really complain. And it is getting really warm, just a wetsuit top and boardies today, and I was pretty comfortable.