who here has been surfing this week?

Still a little bump out there to ride but it's weak compared to the last couple days so I held off. Yesterday was too fun to ruin the feeling.

 

since i had ppls rolling in on Friday for the wknd, i was able to get several hours in that morning for DP. Crowds were expected after Thursday's clean, glassy swell. semi chop thi to rare waist at the end of Washout. went out with a couple buds. glad the other end of the block got crowded while we took to our own thang. rights and lefts were available, brought the LB thinking it was not gonna be as swell. only problemo was that it was pretty shallow so the wipeouts were pretty brutal. the next day i took to the west of the pier, taught my older bro n his wife. Both got up for the first time, which i mark down as a success. she was better (yoga inclined) getting up a couple times while he was one big imbalanced dude (said the board lessons in hawaii were useless because the board was too small for him). nothing to seriously brag about for their wave riding skills, but the conditions were a lot worse

 

Dreaming of something like this???

[video=youtube;pn7SFWpXURk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pn7SFWpXURk[/video]

 

Had a blast this weekend. Small weak waves so I borrowed my neighbors foam LB. Paddled around with my son on front... Every time I'd paddle for a little bump he'd scream and laugh. Got tired after a while, but he'd start crying every time we'd get out.
Finally let me get out my wife had an ice cold beer waiting for me.
Probably the most fun I've ever had hanging at the beach.

I am sore

 

Dude that is awesome!!

 

Chris Ruddy. Easy guy to talk boarts with & get you a kustom. He used to be the guy behind the Ukelele brand. The entire moniker for the boart is Ruddy Shovel Tail Drifter. Luv me this boart. Fun, challenging, fast, maneuverable, great wave catcher. Most fun I've ever had on a boart in on the Driftah....

 

I took the LB out for a paddle this morning. Great weather and a beautiful sunrise, so I figured why not, might as well get wet. There was a little knee / thigh high line coming in, pretty weak compared to last few days but I still snagged a few, then paddled for a while, snagged a couple more, paddled back to where I began, and caught a few more. Nothing special but waves were ridden.

 

I love the new job. Get to work from home every Friday and since I'd been putting in the work all week got to kick out early. I can get used to these 40hr work weeks!

So instead of having to wait until at least 5:30PM, drive 45-1hr the opposite way, then grab the fam and drive to CB and get down late, I got to bail at 3:30 and head right out. So I got a PM sesh in on Friday, and an AM sesh on Sat and Sunday. Friday the usual PM wind kicked up and it was a bit drifty so I didn't try too hard to stay in position and burn out the bad shoulder, just drifted and took whatever came. Caught a couple fun ones and saved the shoulder for the rest of the weekend.

Sat was cleaner and not much drift. Got out early and only a few people out. Got my fill and once the crowds filled in I bailed. The crowd did cause a nice honey to paddle over my way and provide some eye candy as well. Had some cold ones on the beach with some peeps and SCREWBY.

Sunday was clean but weak and teasing. Kept acting like it would do something but never turned on. A few people out, nobody catching anything. But it was good to get out regardless.

Biggest thing was my health is finally getting better and I was able to paddle out three days in a row and wasn't too burned out either. Considering last year this time I couldn't even get out of bed and had trouble going up a flight of stairs, I'm dayum stoked. Nowhere near 100%, but getting there, and more importantly things are going in the right direction.

 

Betty - great news and I hope things continue to get better!

Yank - sounds like Sunday we had the AI Fakeout going on.

Chavez - That sucks but just be glad you passed it that quick. Had a friend who had one for 3 weeks. They were going to go in after it and he finally passed it that AM before the surgery. Sounds like you had a good trip regardless.

 

Gr8 report Tlok. Glad you have mended thus far and got some. May the restoration be completed. Peace man.

 

Thanks CCdog!

Filled up the soul bucket some too!

 

Good to hear your doing better T. Surfing can be therapeutic for mind and body. Also glad your stoked on the new job.

Thigh high at best here on low tide but it works in the meantime.

 

And Betty...so good to hear your doing well!
The waves will be there for you in due time.

 

Thanks DonQ!

Mid tide usually works best for me at the N End. Thought it would get enough push but it just teased.

 

This morning I "pulled a Barry". Went to beach, saw shot for waves, went back home.
Cycled

 

I almost did the same but then did what you also do sometimes and that is go for a paddle and get lucky picking up a few along the way.

 

Awesome!

 

This ^ is the best newz on The Fourume all year. Seriously. What a battle you've been through, T. Props, respect, blessings & so good to hear.

 

lunch break sesh today. water was clear and 80 or so. Just amazing to walk in, feel warm water, and see the bottom sitting on your board waiting for that rare little runner of a wave. mid tide incoming was perfect to turn the small swell lines into rideable surf.

 

local buoys are in the 2 feet @ 16-18 second range. Leaving the house this morning, I didn't believe it would amount to anything. I was wrong, second place i checked, a spot that loves long period energy, was just doing its thing..long little lines feeling the bottom out in deep water, focusing, and standing up to maybe three feet on the face, but just perfect form.