I went through the same progression. Started in 76 on a single fin shaped by Dan Heritage. Had a twinny for a while, but when everyone moved to thrusters, I rode a quad. Then I got my first LB. I still have all my old boards except the twinny.
That "herding" is because humans are sheep, cows, llamas, anything but intelligent. It explains why you are a moron!! hahahahaha!! just kidding ....I am a moron as well......we all be morons on this bus!
A life changing moment: Reef Road - March No Name Swell, very early 80's. Everyone was on twinfins, I don't think Simon had did his thruster yet. It was TOH plus lefts, not a drop of water out of place.We all were skipping and sliding, going way way out on the flats so the outside fin wouldn't pop out and still, the wave would catch up to you and bam! I rode it backside, couldn't even see the axe fall. My buddy just came back from California, he had a 7'6" Lightning Bolt, and just killed it. Made the drops like butter, could turn mid face, set a line and get pitted, sooo pitted. I thought to myself, "I am an idiot, I need a bigger board for days like this, maybe not a twin fin either." Moronhood started at birth, it is still my strong suitte. One thing I try not to do is go surfing with one board. Always take two, the conditions may change mid session,, or the buoys lie. If I take one, I jinx myself and it's way bigger or way smaller than I thought.
I remember reading a story from Matt Kechele about a huge swell in central florida from around that time frame. like you said, nobody in the 1980s on the east coast really had any boards over 6'6" unless you had an old 60s log, or traveled a lot. The TOH swell was well forecast (for that time) so he stayed up into the night shaping and glassing an 8 foot gun for the next day and said the board still stunk of poly resin the next day at Satellite Beach in the huge surf.
I like the progression of this thread.... 2 board quiver...longboard quiver.... wipeout horror stories in PR... Seriously enjoyed reading... but what's next?
DP321 - that's gnarly having to wait 7 hours with a ripped shoulder. I've beaten myself up umpteen diff ways but when I ripped my shoulder out holy hell that hurt like a sumovabeetch. Couldn't even stand up when I got the to hospital, they had to roll me out of the car and into a wheelchair.
Holy f*ck is all I can say. The car ride was miserable, sharp pains with every little bump. I have a high tolerance for pain but this was something different lol
Hard enough to convince my wife that more than one board is needed. No way she will agree to more than one broad. Still. 2 girl quiver.My oh my.
best way to duckdive a lb is to slide off it and push the nose down. another thing I have seen,never did tho,was when a wave comes at u,u just stand up and u roll right over the wave.
I think by now we've gone off from the original 2 board question....so ill throw mine on there now....5'3 twin fin fish, and a 5'6 hypto krypto quad. Covers knee high to doh.
So this morning I was reading an old issue of Surfers Journal while sipping coffee and had reason to revisit this thread in my mind. There as a picture in the first few pages, an ad for something. It was a picture of one of the Malloy brothers and the caption was something about doing a 700 mile bike ride along the California coast to explore the surf at a more personal level. What caught me about the picture is it's Malloy on his bike with this tiny trailer thing with a single board strapped to it. So I buy into the idea that if you're biking and camping the Cali coast, you're probably bringing a single board. That warranted a close look at his board. It looked to be a mid-6' with a diamond tail. Tri-fin setup, but the middle fin looked like it could be adjusted/removed like a bonzer shape. I wonder if maybe the west coast is more suitable for a single board quiver simply because the waves typically have more punch. Even small days push a bit more. And, you probably need to be ready for bigger stuff as well. But I imagine a single, versatile shape can handle most days at most Cali breaks...or maybe not. Anyway, it got me thinking. I have an idea of what I'd use for a single board Hawaii quiver, although that would rule out many days on the North Shore. But with the range of surf we experience on the east coast, man I just don't know if there's a single board answer. Anyway, the picture made me think of this thread. If I could only have one board, I know which one it would be, but it simply wouldn't work some days here in Rhode Island. I really think two boards are necessary to get the most waves.