who here has been surfing this week?

South of the washout last night had some stomach high chop at best. Every time a set wave would come through I'd make the drop, find my line then hit the speed bump of another little wave coming from another angle. Lefts were longer, rights were steeper. This has been the summer of the longboard, the only shortboards I have are my first pieces of polished firewood I made years ago and I'm itching to get on something shorter.

 

Thigh to waist high sideshore junk yesterday on the log. Visibility improving day by day... about 5' yesterday. Almost good enough to see the end of my spear.

 

Same here. Something to ride or try to all summer thus far. Just ruptured my achilles. Done for a good spell.

 

The move I've thought about making there when it gets crowded but am too lazy to do would be to paddle out to the end of the point away from the crowds. Kind of a haul though. 2nd beach can be fun but only until maybe 11am and with the acceptance that the seaweed is fact of life down there.

 

Forgot to mention, the snakes were out last night. I called some kooky kid off two separate times and my buddy got a blatant drop in pulled on him. Good stuff.

I stuck to a jetty and was by myself for a couple rides then literally saw some dude point at me from the beach and his lil crew came over. Luckily there was enough for all.

 

I've thought of trying that point a few times. Park at that lot at the end of the beach and walk out to the point. But like you said that looks like a bit of a hassle. I'd still like to try it before I leave, I'm sure it is rideable out there on the right swell.

 

Well, there does seem to be a few iffy parking spots on the west side. 1/2 ass parked there one time and walked down to check it out - some guys were out.

Rideable? Yes indeed.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/henpeep/6131193486/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/henpeep/6127761649/

 

Ah, ok, we're talking about two different reefs. I'm talking about Sachuest Point I think it's called, offshore between 2nd and 3rd beaches.

 

Yeah, that's even farther but I'd like to see it going off some time.

Not to derail this thread but that is the one advantage of SUPs which SUPers never seem to take advantage of - the ability to cover a larger area. Start at 2nd, paddle out to one of the points, etc... would be still a lot of paddling but not nearly the same as doing it on LB lying down.

 

Got some more surf in the last couple days. Not bad, outside of crowds and the fact that it's August and everyone that's ever even looked at a surfbort is in the ocean on one.

Got a friend (non-surfing friend) up from Florida for a few days, and just having some fun.

 

it was a gnarred out morning at Folly. Double on Rye. lott more punch tho it tended to crash out. it was either pulling up quick after a pigdog down or getting spit out like a ragdoll. chest to head hi. wishdaihada brought a small waverider but it was a great start to a morning to end the week

 

If a SUP paddles over from Egypt to poach a set wave that's coming into the peak I'm surfing, then I will, without hesitation, drop in on them.

The solution to avoiding summer crowds is to move to a location, let's say New Hampshire, where there is no surf, problem solved.

 

Nice pic wavestorm

Well, we didn't know the Wounded Warriors were coming to the beach today. Those guys really do it up with marching, playing the bagpipes in cool Scottish kilts, and their cameraderie and stoke is priceless.

So we moved down the beach. Today was the day I tried to go without a wheelchair, and good thing because the warriors had all of them.

With my rescue team at ready, I was stoked that I could do it at all. I have increased my strength to surf on carefully selected waves to 40 minutes.

Sure, the waves were shin to knee high at best. But, with good friends, glassy turquoise waves, a deserted peak, and tarpon breaching, what could be better!

Boys, when you see yourself slipping away, it's such a shot of stoke to be able to surf, empty your mind, and connect with the energy of the ocean.

 

o betty,

This is so good to read! Glad you are making it out there and that your condition has improved somewhat. Hopefully things can continue to progress for you. Pulling for you down here. You keep going girl!

It's crazy to think that I haven't been up to the secret inlet since my birthday two months ago. I figured I'd be up there constantly this summer. But either situations have conspired to prevent me from going or I've managed to find something to surf more locally like happened last weekend. Please say Hi to all the Betties for my wife and I. We miss seeing you guys and the other local regulars. Hopefully we can make it up there before summer winds down.

 

Glad to hear Betty! I remember when I broke my ankle (14 years at the end of next month), I hated not being able to get in the water. Finally went in after 6 months or something and while the surf was just whatever, the session was fun because of the excitement of finally being able to get back in the water!

 

Wow what a fun DP session! I got in at dead low tide, the first 2hrs it was firing waist high glassy liners one after the other and was building up to stomach / chest high on the good ones. Mostly rights on the SE / ESE swell but there were a few really fun lefts too. It was LB heaven, clean and green! Easy entry and long walls built for nose riding and carving.

The waves would roll in slow and pickup speed on the inside for a nice little runner section. I sat outside and saw them coming in early and got up to speed, at times I was slowing my paddling down as the wave got close just to make sure I wasn't out running it, this put me in position to drop in as the wave began to pitch and would shoot me down the line to outrun the inside section, many times I was out on the nose crouched and face to face with the wave as I drug a hand then back to the tail for a cutback and rebound off the pocket and then back the other direction.

Other times as it picked up speed on the inside and jacked up before closing out I would go up top and off the lip to finish in shallow water. The last hour it got slow so I had to wait for a wave but I finally got a gem to finish my sesh. Going for grub now, hope this afternoon / evening is even better so I can ride the M-80 for a change.

 

#liners

 

Went to RI early. It was foggy and kind of choppy but still fun. Seemed a bit crowded at first but then the real crowds showed up around 10. It got to the point where if you were on the outside you had to preplan how to get around the mob of short boarders on the inside. That is the point where I left 'cause that sucks.

So, so much seaweed again but still a good morning.

 

This am...stomach high sets...seems to be the norm this summer...nothing great but surfable small stuff, and at times, fun. Havent used the shortboard for what seems like forever...maybe Wednesday am.

 

I opted to go fishing instead. Chesapeake was a little rough today and we got skunked. No surf, no fish. Oh well, still a nice day!