Got out there for about 3-3.5 hours or so. Waist high at best and too many people out, once again. It was probably knee high half the time. I really need a day or two to wax the two Stang's before I go back to work in about 4 weeks, and on a non-rainy day, at that.
ol Gert McGert pushing its way past us today. i wouldn't imagine anybody south of the Carolinas got it. this morning before work was getting drained out at lo tide ~9am. knew a lo tide spot at IOP, couple groms beat me to it at DP but i spaced myself out from them as they were recharging on every wave. clean, thi to waist. wasn't pumping by any means, but rideable and enough push to try sumtin. gonna be mixed swell feelings for the rest of the week until we get our next encounter next week- same time i'd think. taking a "last wave in", i got dropped by a girl tween grom. had to wait like another 10 min before i could take ride one in. on a positive note, did see a brown bunny in the dunes on my way out - i didn't f with it - i've seen Monty Python
Gert looks to serve up the mid-atlantic nicely, but just some dribblings north of the cape, but I'll take it.
It's still fun out there this morning! Glassy, waist high, well formed little speedsters on the LB. Mostly rights. I paddled out before first light and as the sun rose it was like a blood orange color behind a silk screen that eventually melted away and the sun came out completely. Just a great mixture of colors in the sky, picturesque. This little run of swell hasn't been big by any means but the wave quality has been great.
Yeah, up here as well, but with small waves. Surfed with a friend I had not seen in a while. Nobody out but us two. Wow...2 days in a row...in NH......dude!!
My local spot has been pretty empty all summer, a crowd would be like 3-5 people. Today it was just me at first and then two other morons joined me, same two as yesterday. We had a nice little rotation going where everybody got a wave in the set.
Rotation is perfect. Fortunately, that is exactly what happened to me 2 years ago at Tres Palmas--4 of us out, three surfers one floater....3 of us took turns in 12 to 14 foot faces. One of my best ever sessions there, rotation reminds me of that...
It's especially nice when you let the other two dudes go first and end up getting the best wave of the set each time, as I did this morning
Really fun sesh at WB this morning. Days like today are why I work so hard to maintain my life on the coast. Warm water and rip-able waves. Doesn't get much better than that!
Looked like it could have been a nice surfing day, but it's another one of these total washout days. The Summer 2017 special. Most years we'd just get afternoon boomers on the hazy, hot and humid days. This year there's been a lot of these lost days, either washouts or rain and the sun not being out at all. Might take a ride to AC or something.
Nearly flat this morning. I went for a paddle to get some exercise and enjoy the beautiful morning. Water was glassy and there were little lines coming in so I figured as the tide dropped I may get lucky and catch a few. I was right! I had 3 rideable waves come through in about an hour as I was paddling up and down the beach. Sunrise was epic once again. I love that moment that the top edge of the sun just barely comes up over the horizon and then you can literally watch it rise completely in a matter of seconds. Truly amazing and it's been taken for granted so many times. Today I appreciated it.
I forgot to mention the sea turtle I saw leaving the nest and heading back to the water as people were taking pictures of it. There have been a lot more tracks in the sand lately so I guess they're telling us the storms aren't gonna hit us anytime soon.
Gert produced for the buoyz in jersey. Solid shoulder to well overhead on sets early this morning at my break of choice. Mild off/cross off winds. The swell looked really pretty. Quite a few heads out but it was pumping so I didnt mind one bit. Got some good rides over the course of two hours. A few close out barrels and a nice Doggy door exit. The rights were more lined up but there were lefts too. I love long period swell. Fingers crossed on getting seconds later tonight. Hope all the other buoys are scoring in the mid Atlantic/ N. East.