it sucks not being able to surf mornings.seems that's when every swell is at its peak and I always have to settle for the leftovers.iv been skunked a lot.iv only witnessed absolute perfection less than 10 times in the past 10 years.
Hey Barry, a good friend of mine was at ruggels. Play nice. Up here on LI, Wednesday morning the buoy was 5 somthing feet at 12 seconds. You can get it good here at that size but the tide is a big factor. With low tide early it was allot of closeouts, even at the deeper spots it was a quick section then closeout. Same conditions but at 10 seconds could of been more manageable. It was a foot or two over head. I passed on the morning session do to closeouts. The afternoon was awesome. Smaller but prefect, and still shoulder high. Even as the tide dropped, the swell had faded enough to just offer perfection. This morning we still had some waist - stomach high little peelers. Not hyped, the size was there for sure. Tide didn't really cooperate early. But as it dropped below 12 seconds things got really good. I'm happy. Iv had much better, but I'm happy
We miss you Gert. Come back! Is post swell depression a thing (after the stoke wares off)? Why can't it be head high and clean all the time lol.
It sure felt good to surf real waves again. It was alittle racey up the street so I walked up to the next break that handles the SE swell better and it was Magical. The tide was fat by the time I moved but it was friggin fun. Getting shacked 20 feet from the sand. Made a few and got slammed aaaalot! Well worth the pain!!! More on the way.... Let the STOKE FLOW!!
Swellinfo is Colin Herlihy SI alias! Did you need 2 jet skis to pull you into your head high bangers? Stay away from our 6-10ft swells with your jet ski colin herlihy you are a flupsing rag wiping the doo doo from even the most moderate surfer in the water. You sicken me!
I do love me some mornings! Around here, the traffic gets so bad during the summer time, the mornings are the only way to go!
Yewwwww it sure as **** was!!! I probably have some video of you that my GF took while I was out there. Inlet was flat AF, but the ORV areas were firing too. We didn't get it as good as Rodanthe or NJ, but barrels all day into the dark at 9:15. At 10:30 I pulled the truck up and shined the headlights in Bethany, it was easily twice as big as the rest of the day and draining barrels that were running the length of the boardwalk. No ****. We just happened to be in the area that the swell peaked overnight. **** happens. Next morning still scoring I was talking to people that were like, nah I didn't surf yesterday, inlet was flat...GEEZ.
Damn, that was Bethany?!?! I haven't surfed there in years! It was always shore pound. Glad you guys scored!!!!
I made perhaps the worst surfing call of my entire career for Gert....certainly in the top 3 ever. I couldn't make it out for the dawn patrol. One of my students came in and told me during class that he'd had "probably the best surfing day of my life" that morning before class at First Beach. I was able to get out at about 1pm. However, I'm doing the math in my head. I rarely surf First Beach, but Second Beach instead. But I just knew it would be an absolute zoo. So I made a tactical decision to head to a reef I frequently surf that trends towards empty to a handful of locals, with difficult parking and limited access. The swell direction was right, and it can absolutely go off with some energy in the water. I head to the reef, park in a semi-secret spot and walk to the reef. Get to the break...there are at least 12 guys sitting on the main peak with longboards, it's about waist high and inconsistent. The other part of the reef I surf is about knee high. WTF. I very nearly just bagged it and drove back to Second Beach. But then I figured screw it, I'll just grab some knee high peelers and hope with the tide change the waves pick up. No. Not only did it not pick up, three dudes decide to paddle out and sit right next to me. I am not exaggerating when I say that I sat there for 45 minutes before they paddled out and not a single ripple came through. Why are you sitting here? Why do I now have to listen to your inane chatter so that I can't even just enjoy the feeling of quiet solitude and sunshine on my face while I contemplate the utter mistake of choosing this spot when pretty much every other spot in Rhode Island is absolutely firing? Why are surfers suck ****ing sheep? So altogether, 3 hours out, 3 waves, one not too bad...and that's it. That's my Gert story. I heard Second Beach was completely packed, but the waves were epic. I simply cannot express how angry I was Wednesday night...at myself, at those assholes that decided to paddle right to where I was sitting...the consolation is that by paddling out to where I was they also had a completely wasted session. I take some minor satisfaction from that.
Sorry man, I'm just hoping this washed out all the seaweed. On the plus side, it's only the start of tropical storm season - you'll get the next one.
