who here has been surfing this week?

checked a spot off the bucket list for NJ. Surfed with sam hammer and clay, it was on. E swell made this spot work perfect. Somewhat shorebreaky but a sick wave nonetheless. Who knew this wave was in manasquan?

 

If you think that's good- you should surf the Belmar! 20x better !

 

Is not!!
It is 23 times better!! Not 20!!

 

Back to flat. It is Labor Day Weekend....lots of cars from NY, NJ, CT, RI, all with pile of surfboards on the roof. So I am glad it is flat-no waves for asshole out of staters. Go to Cape Cod....get eaten by a Great White.
Assholes.

 

Fun but very choppy waves last night on the south shore in MA. Water is still nice and warm.

Can't believe season's over in two days already.

 

I can't believe I'm in complete agreement with Barry.

 

Reality is a b****, ain't it??
lol

 

Season is over?? Really? Does post #6771 apply to you??
Season is just starting, man.......

 

Lol o Barry

 

Cmon guys, let's maintain the Peajay spirit here and save vitriol for other treades.

He originally said, "If you've been surfing lately talk story here. Give surfing folks who sit in front of a computer for work all day something to read about the act of surfing when they want to take a break from whatever it is they are doing."

 

theres been waves just about every day this week all up and down the coast so if u weren't surfing that sucks for u.
supposed to be a real good September coming from the boys in the kitchen

 

A little digression for humor never hurts; in fact, it is helpful, especially within a dead forum.
Got to whip up some fervor. Please note- it works!!

 

It's a joke, moron.

 

Suuuuure it was....sure.........

 

I saw Valhalla in the lineup today. It's always fun to surf with him. He is a very pleasant guy, always positive, never toots his horn and quietly gets it done. I saw a couple of his rides today and they looked fun!

Like he might say, it was just him, me and 50 of our best friends. But it's a friendly and well behaved lineup. SI was an overcall with waist to occ stomach high. It was knee to thigh with occ waist highs. The seaweed was thick, but not a dealbreaker.

I had looked forward to seeing if waist to stomache would be too much to challenge my body. But, was relieved that the size presented fun and not so much fear.

Lots of chatter today about what Irma will bring starting midweek and bombing this coming weekend.

 

This morning was pretty fun, not as big as yesterday, but still had some good size on the sets. Probably waist - chest for the most part. Clean, glassy conditions with calm - light offshore wind. It was the most crowded day of the year, even for my spot that is normally empty. I still had a high wave count despite the crowd. I could have ridden the fish but the LB was the right call.

 

Another flat day.
I blame Trump......

 

fun fall-like sesh this afternoon. It was a miracle that 3' @ 6 seconds was producing a fast steep waist high a-frame at this particular spot but the sandbars are pumped up from recent storms, so they were. Straight offshore breeze. water and air in the mid 70's....comfy trunking it with a top for 2+ hours

Second miracle - four of us walked about a quarter mile up the beach away from the crowd and started splitting peaks. 9/10 times we surf this spot on a warm weekend day a couple of goobers inevitably walk down the beach...looking...staring...and then just paddle out right next to us when there isn't another surfer in the water for 300 yards. That didn't happen today. Rode the Chemistry 5'5" in small steep pockety waves perfectly suited for that little shape.

 

Wow what a suprize today in monmouth co.
Called for 1 to 3 feet waist hi. I woke up to overhead sets. It cleaned up by noon. 10 to 15 mpr west wind. I was get ten shacked for 4hrs strait. Not many crowds maybe Because of the am rain and the underestimated report.

 

its a slightly over cast day , winds are off shore , waves waist to shoulder high , clean a frames with a nice mellow drops . You are paddling for a wave , digging deep , sprays hitting you in the face . The wall starts to stand up , you intentionally delay a micro second . Wait for the lip to throw out . Turn the board slightly towards the direction of your line and slide to your feet and drop in. The lip goes past your shoulder . and you forget everything , just in the moment . What was a second or two of being in your happy place . Hiding from the world ends as you pop out . Finish with a little bottom turn to a top side laid back heal digging hack throwing buckets at your buddy . hope youz gotz some too ...