who here has been surfing this week?

Had a really great day on Thursday! One of the best since June. Surfed with a couple friends from Sea Isle City, who I only surf with about once a year anymore, and it's usually this very same week ever year. The week of Labor Day. We surfed Sea Isle, Avalon, then drove up to OCNJ. OCNJ is such an underrated town for surf. Nice waist-chest high sets, even though the wind was somewhat unfavorable at times. We capped it off with a late night meal at the Irish Pub in AC!

We may meet up to surf again on the weekend. I'll definitely be surfing something this weekend, looks pretty good!

 

Guess i should of went to oc

 

It was fun in south OC. Waist+ long lines with rights & lefts from 6:30 till dark.

 

My home beach was about 9.5 out of 10 last night. Long lines and plenty of power.

This morning was bigger but slightly less organized and kind of closing out. Still managed to snag a few and get my medicine before work.

 

virginia beach was absolutely firing last night and early this morning. Long, perfect, top to bottom waves. Check the cams should be good for another few hours before the wind switches.

 

just talked with my buddy...ughh, I need to get OFF work.

 

i think the waves were a bit worse than yesterday out on folly. thinner crowd early this morning. textured, bigger from chest to head occ. just tougher to find that pocket with all the closeouts. took out 3 shortys in the 2 hrs and got like a handful of waves. very bitter. the paddle outs were rough. should start to getting blown out, perhpas this evening. will try again tomorrow morning. not sure where to roll yet for this storm, but looks like up 17 on the coast to NC if this storm does in fact end up in the middle of our state

 

There was size on set this morning but super long lines, very tough to make. Occasionally a stubby makeable wave would come through that was pretty decent. I saw Mitchell score the wave of the day and it was a left for gods sake. I caught 4 mediocre waves refusing to take anything but a corner, no beat downs for me today.

 

aispnp or town?...yesterday surfed dead low...much smaller and still shutting down. did get a little better with it getting deeper by the time I left.

 

IMO MD was better yesterday than today. Found really fun surf before dark. Today was shut-down city. Granted i had to work so wasnt out for long.

 

Great morning today--2 sessions, different locations. BUT....had to get out of the water during first session due to what appeared to be a rather large shark!! First time ever surfing I got out promptly as quick as I could. Species?? No idea, but doubt it was a great white, more likely a large blue shark, feeding on menhaden (bunker, porgies, etc) schools in the area at this time of year.
Another possibility--a large tuna. It was NOT a seal--I have seen plenty of those and the water motion was NOT anything as small as that.

 

Yes it was. Caught a few of the head high sets. Last wave of the morning was a dumpy closeout, adn I absolutely ate sh!t on an extremely poorly timed late drop. Ended up doing an airdrop and fell onto my board. Busted up my rail about where my chest is (had to break out the qcell I busted the glass so hard), and cracked the rail on the tail as well. Gouged a good size chunk out of my leg in the process. Nastiest wipeout I've had in years.

 

typical set wave this morning in MD, typical size anyway. this one is staying more open on the shoulder than many, although i got a couple that opened up nicely at AI and then a few more in OC later. OC was more consistent, and peakier which helped. I also think we lucked onto a good sandbar in town.



Some more shots

 

nice and clean, but lots of of closeouts in Mon-Co. good size but you got worked on sandbar. broke my board on the "one more wave" dang. waited too long and tide got too low. but now i have an excuse to get a new one!

 

Thanks dude, it's appreciated.

 

Did not surf today. Looked... and looked... and looked... and gave up. Set waves were jetty-to-jetty closeouts. You could hop a shoulder here and there, but I just wasn't into it.

 

soooo much better today and much bigger. Wind was hard offshore yesterday, but much calmer in afternoon today. Light offshore and the last hour pretty much dead calm. Many overhead waves to be had...many shutting down but just as many peeling. Lots of barrels if you were willing to take the risk. Managed one that will be remembered...did get the wind knocked out of me on one too. Good times with friends...stoked!

 

Its been a fun week. One session in particular was really fun (I wont name the spot) but the wind died and some long period swell filled in. We surfed pretty far out but the paddle out wasn't bad. Good times. My non-surfing buddy also filmed me in some micro barrels. You can't complain about a free photographer. Stay safe Florida.. people.

 

Second Beach was unruly today. I'm not sure what the hell surfline and swellinfo are looking at for the forecasts. I threw the 6'6 in the back along with the fish "just in case" expecting the forecast 3-4' surf. But I'm looking at the Montauk buoy and it's showing 7' @ 14 seconds, which is way too much water for 4' surf.

Got there and it was just bowling surf. Not top to bottom big; there were sets a few feet overhead, but it wasn't so much the height as the amount of water in the waves. And, the wind was howling onshore. It made for a messy, choppy, big bomby mushburgery mess. There were some corners to be had, but it was pure luck because it was breaking all over.

I got a few waves, but I didn't see anybody get anything particularly memorable. It was a truly rough session. I got caught inside repeatedly. But they weren't breaking top to bottom, so it didn't push you under bad, but it would drag you in and once you were in, just had to ride the foam in and do the walk of shame back to the rocks to ride the rip back out.

Hopefully the wind cleans things up tomorrow. I'm still seeing forecasts for 2-4' surf, but that's just not correct. I suspect there will be some easily overhead sets in the morning. I'm going to ride the 6'8 Byrne Easy Rider, something with some extra foam to get into the waves earlier, and make for stronger paddling.

 

Pretty much the same story in moco today as well. There was waves, but shutting down... I saw it around 11am and with the deeper water it looked manageable... but still nothing to write home about... except the size...