Surfboard design has left me behind

realistically, how good of a surfer are you?...thats the first question you need to ask yourself. If your average at best, I always tell people, stay away from super rockered boards, and add more foam then someone who is above average. If your above average, the sky is the limit in design, with less foam then the average surfer.

Its true, like you, all my boards in the late 80's were over 6' but since the change in design, I dont own one board over 6'...in fact my daily board is 5'6", super small wave board is 5'4" and my standard shortboard is 5'9" and my bigger wave board is 6', which is rarely surfed. Honestly, I come from a skate background and wish I used these tiny boards back in the day. For me, I find it easier to throw around. Try it, dont think you will be disappointed. You can pack alot of foam in a shortboard...5'4" fishcuit is 34L which is my knee/thigh board, but all other boards are around 31L. Works for me, winter or summer.

 

This has pretty much been my deal for the past 15 years since i started shaping, and realized how easy it is to buy used boards, clean them up, surf them for four seasons (or maybe 4 years if i like them) and sell them the following summer for about what i paid for them. I've cycled through at least 15 "favorite" good wave boards in the past 15 years, and learned a lot in the process. And yeah, held onto a couple really good ones, that just earned their place.

I agree that waist to shoulder high wave are the hardest to find the right board, but i think its just because 80% of good to great sessions i get in any given year are in waves that size. I HAVE to have a board that i really like in those conditions because its pretty much the payoff.

At 54 years old, 5'9" 150 lbs, decent shape, i'm also riding slightly more volume than i was 20 years ago. But i'm riding shorter boards than i was 20 years ago. I agree with the shorter/wider/lighter trend. On a good day with rippable shoulder high waves i'll be riding something like a 5'9" x 20 3/4" x 2 3/8" EPS Stretch Quad where 20 years ago i would have been riding a 6'1" x 19 1/2" x 2 1/2" thruster. If i rode that same thruster today it would feel slow, too rockered, too long in the nose (swing weight) and heavy (poly).

 

I'm also 54 and in decent shape... but I'm 6'1, 190. My problem is I need a bit more wave to ride a typical "HP" shortboard. That's why I'm really riding a fish in belly high range surf, instead of a shortboard. I could ride a groveler, and always had one in my quiver, but just I prefer the feel of a twin keel fish over a groveler shortboard. At my size and age, I ride a 6'0 fish.

My next step up... for waves in the upper end of that "waist to shoulder" range that people are saying it's hard to find a board for... is a hybrid shortboard/grovler. That's been my answer to that problem. Again, it's my size and age that drove that design. It's 6'4, and has a shortboard template, but with a more relaxed entry rocker, deep concaves, and a considerable amount of tail kick. It's got a full volume feel to it, with a flat deck and medium-full rails, but the nose-to-tail foil is more like a shortboard. Super light, with EPS, 6x4 deck, 6 bottom, but it's not too stiff because I controlled the thickness when I added length (think of length as leverage for flex, as long as it's not too thick).

 

Sounds like similar boards for the waist to shoulder set up. I am 5'11" and 188 (lol ok 190). I went with very little rocker and a quite full rail on this 6'2". I have been riding it has a thruster since the waves have been fun these last couple of weeks.

LB, we posted on this a couple of weeks ago and it appears Mitch agrees with the stretch quad on this set up. I am currently looking at the large:
"Futures Stretch HC Large Quad Fin Set – Navy/Orange,Front Fins: Stretch Quad,Height: 4.39 in, 11.20 cm,Base: 4.34 in, 11.00 cm,Area: 14.52 sq in, 93.68 sq cm,Rear Fins: 400 Quad Rear,Height: 4.00 in, 10.20 cm,Base: 3.89 in, 9.90 cm,Area: 12.41 sq in, 80.06 sq cm,Base Depth: 1/2 & 3/4 in.,"

Based on this board's purpose, I think I'm going to order these this week and give them a go.

 

Just paddle harder.

 

I'd buy a very expensive pop out that was shaped in china by a machine and costs more than 775 dollars without leash or fins. Thats when you know you are getting a really good surfboard and are most likely a really good surfer. Also, you'll want some outerknown gear to go with that new board. Oh and stickers.

 

Sorry, dude, I scored the 6'0" CI flyer 2 34l from CI site...couldn't pass it up for $580 delivered...i'll be at all the pts and reefs this weekend to put it through it paces.

 

I going to chime in here with a board you should look at. If you like Merricks and you like a longer board I'm going to suggest the Girabbit. I have a locally shaped copy that is my daily driver. Mine is 6 x 20 x 2 1/2 it says 32ltrs. I'm 5'8" and fight to stay below 170. It has a deep single all the way through and it is flat in the tail which is a bit wide. The CI website says chest to over head but I use it in waist and had a ton a fun. Used in full winter gear and shorts. basically I ride it all the time except on LB days. The smaller days I run blackstix. When it gets bigger I run a stiffer fin. At 6 x 20 x 2 5/8 you should be running at 33. It has a good rail. Not too much not too thin. When I got it I was looking for a good old school shorty that had good paddle abilty. Nothing is worse than getting a great wave then the paddle back out is a slog.

I'm not saying it's your answer. i'm just saying look at it.

and seriously, just get a new board already.

 

Those are the fins I use in my 6'4.

 

My favorite step ups all were CIs with a narrowish squash tail, in the 6'6" to 6'8" range and 2.66 to 2.75" thick. It's way more foam than you guys are talking about, but they were narrow, 18.5 to 19.5" wide, and the squash tail gave it the right amount of hold and looseness in OH to DOH plus waves. It made the bottom turns and still would be loose enough to go vertical. No idea on volume, guessing 35L.

On normal waves, I haven't gone short with full volume like the Tomos I see out there. A 6'4" hybrid for chest to head high waves, with a fattish swallow tail, loosens it up to go up and down. Still 35L with lots of rocker..

I'd like to try a 5'8" 37L board to feel what ya'll are saying, now you've inspired me to hit CL and get one cheap to give it a whirl.

I'm 5'9" 160 lbs (and 57 years old, so a bit extra foam is nice).

 

Side note - before the hurricane I put a board - a CI 6'9" pintail 2.5" thick 18.5" wide up for consignment at a Jupiter surf shop, it was snapped up the next day. I had been stashing it all summer, waiting for a big swell to hit before putting out.

It was a bit too thin for me to feel comfy in big surf with offshores, it doesn't paddle in fast enough for this old fart LOL. They are still without power but I have a check due that will cover a new old board.

My wife can't give me any trouble, it's how it goes - get rid of a boart, get another boart (or make one and there is too much hurricane stuff to even think aboot picking up a tool for anything else right now).

 

You would love my 6ft Coil M-80. It's a stubby HPSB, I'm 5'9" 180 (working toward 170lbs). At your size it would paddle like a dream. I only pull it out when it's at least chest high or bigger and there's some juice to the wave.

 

Absolutely bro! Looks like a blast. I need to try one out, then get a custom ordered for me Bday. I've always wanted to try a Coil HPSB, and a Tomo Evo. They both look hi tech but user friendly.

Kechle hybrids (the stub fishes, etc.) are great for our average size Sebastian Inlet type ramps/peaks/ beach breaks, but they fall apart too fast, I've found out.

 

These are the fins I'm running with right now. I went with Large since I only ride it in good waves and like to really lean into my turns.

 

Right on, it's super light but very durable. It's not chattery at all either. You can ride it if you're ever in the neighborhood.

 

That fin looks fast

 

Yeah, it has great hold but enough flex at the same time. My first Futures fin, always had FCS until I got that boart. So far I'm a fan!

 

Sloppy leashe plug install... But otherwise, the t!ts