att swell info

Was there around 4... called it 1-2 ft w/occ. 3ft wedges. Hit up a little sandbar that gave it a bit more push. Def. not spectacular, but nothing to complain about b/c its better than doing nothing. Early AM tomm have to be out of the water by 8:30 for work.

 

actually

Actually johnny im glad b/c then you dont gotta worry bout people crashin ur spot and kookin out on you....but whatevers u just gotta check urself, its actually a good thing its not up there, in the long run u will relize why.......ANYONE KNOW THE SECRET TYO BEING A PRO SURFER.......YOU GOTTA HAVE A TRUST FUND..LOL

 

Surfed a glassy 5-6 ft barreling pointbreak w/ 82 degree water and 82 degree offshores. No one out but me and it was so easy to get barreled I was literally doin it w/ my eyes closed!!!

Was great until my alarm went off and I had to go to work! Glad you made it out J2B!

Hopefully this next front doesn't get all Northy on us and blow by...PM me tho if you wanna meet up and help find the best break.

 

Only the word may be cliche...the feeling is yours and that's what its all about!!! Angry surfers forget what it can do for a person and don't realize they demote the sport. If the conditions aren't safe, the angries intimidate ppl out of the water w/ threats or worse where a nice attitude and recommendation of another beach more suited to their needs sends them eagerly to the car. If not, they'll soon realize what a couple launched takeoffs and whitewater blasts will do to them.

A lot of sense can be talked into a 'kook' in less than five minutes with the right demeanor... I've actually made a bunch of people understand basic surf etiquette in between sets and you can see it click for em too. Anyone can get a board and there's no test or surfing license so there's always gonna be some oblivious people that just need some direction.

I'm not tryin to set up a defense counsel for all beginners tho... the oblivious/arrogant newb who goes out with a macho attitude and yells at the water b/c they don't get it is def a barney. They mimic a misinterpreted image of a good/tough surfer, they just can't surf. Usually, nothing can help em and it just takes time before they don't frequent your local spot.

I love to surf and found the stoke is a lot better for everyone if its mutual. Unless you're in a heat, surfing is a recreational sport for fun, fitness, and expression. Competition for waves may happen at the notorious local spots, but if it's goin off, somewhere else has to be almost as good w/ less people. Just takes the right attitude and exploration.

I spent a couple hours at N Jetty for Gustav and shot around the wash to meet someone droppin in. He did a cutback and lost his board when he saw me and it got me bad. Went to the beach bleedin from the scalp only to have this guy come running to punch me??? Got it cleaned and superglued and went to a different beach with walled up barrelin lefts and no one around. No crowd, perfect waves, and loong rides was the best day I've ever had here. Bypassed the jetty for Ike and scored again, empty beach perfect waves. Took a friend who turned into an excited teenage girl and couldn't stop smiling. I like the waves at venice, but sometimes the crowd is only tolerable for about an hour.

Srry for the giant post.... just my take on some problems

 

Where's T.D. been??? Wonder if he left for P.R.?

 

Fun waves this evening!

 

i feel like johnny too bad is the human incarnation of wilbur kookmeyer.

 

i am not your "dog" and please do everyone a favor and learn how to construct a lucid thought into logical and sequential order in a post. also please pick up a dictionary or use spell check. inhaling glassing resin kills slightly less brain cells then trying to navigate one of your posts.

 

whats up wilby

 

At least he has an interest in the sport to post about it... Seems like he's really enjoying everything and doing what he can to enjoy it even more.

...Eh, I see your point, tho. JohnnyTooBad is a kooook and shouldn't be having a good time! I hope he never goes out in the water again and his cousin gets a severe case of the flu! May his computer crash so he can never make another postttt...

(Just an example of how ridiculous forum bashing is)

 

you both ride "fun shapes" and don't like riding backside. amirite?

 

My all around go to board is a 5'11 swallow tail w/ glassed on wood fins non retro shape though. I ride thrusters when the waves get some juice. Reppin gulfside pride with the NXTCs 5'8 6'1 6'3... the 6'1 is a rounded pin I'va actually been saving to ride the BVI (tortola) in February. Have 2 Cult boards... but they're Taiwanese pop-outs that have good lam, but the fcs plugs are a bit goofed. I mainly let my friends use them. They're all "fun shapes" to me 5'8 - 6'3. Working at the surf expo can get you amazing deals on new boards.

The biggest, though, is a 7'6 funboard that I do enjoy on 1-2 ft coldfront left over day. I have it so I can get that last extra session in. It can be pretty weird to be out with a bunch of older men...I can see where you're coming from with the username.

Backside no problems... I like the power from the heels = bigger hacks. Grew up 15 min from haggerty's in cali and may not have been Chicama, but was a the longest left in the U.S. for me. Padang padang had me scared for my life on a mediocre day. At head high dredging and 1 foot deep, I can admit it was too much and had to move.

Been all over man... no pipe or anything, but I'm pretty satisfied with everything. I got no problems w/ you and just tryin to help others. I never thought of the negativity and criticisms I'd get for being myself.