who here has been surfing this week?

Gonna get some sleep here, and got a day of surfing planned this afternoon. Probably gonna take a ride to Cape May/Cape May County.

 

Lot of lookers last night but only a couple of takers right before dark. Still too raw and a horrendous current. My son ran down south with some friends and came home with a broken board for his efforts.



This was the inside shorebound.

 

^^ I was one of the lookers but one town south of you. All close outs and ridiculous current. I'm on it tomorrow. Working 16 hours today. Gotta make up for time lost to surfing my sack off pretty much since the Gert swell showed up. The yard at my house in PA looks like no one's lived there for years. Yard in NJ doesn't look much better. Man, what a run we are having. I'll be booked solid if there more swell in October. Archery season kicks into gear as well.

 

I got out a little before first light to get a session in before work. I can't wait till the time changes and I get my long DP sessions back eventually. The waves were still holding in the chest high range with sets up to HH, maybe a tad bigger but there was more punch in them today, more hollow, shorepound was relentless (not like the pic above, but still a pain). I ended it on a good and bad note. I caught a great wave and almost made it to shore but it shut down just before the last nasty sand bar. I ended up getting pounded trying to get back to shore and popped my shoulder back out of the socket (againe). I pulled it back in underwater while getting smashed again. Once I confirmed my arm was working again, I made it to shore. Shoulder is a little sore now but all in all it's ok. Might be stiff for a few days but I'll live.

 

Uh oh, DP... You'd better get that shoulder addressed now, before you get too old for full recovery. And by "getting that shoulder addressed," I mean surgery.

 

Really cool pic. Bottom turns are way underrated.

 

I keep toying with the idea but the fear of making it worse is in my head. I will be back in the water tomorrow but I do wonder at what point it's just gonna fall off and leave me paddling in circles.

 

Oy vey...sorry to hear that!! Anything orthopedics can do to keep that sucker from popping?? Have you spoken with one?? Other than the morons in Mayaguez......

 

I haven't been to see one on this shoulder in 10 years, at that time it had a torn labrum, some damaged cartilage, some arthritis, etc. I didn't want surgery and it healed pretty good on it's own, but still vulnerable and when it pops out like this it just sets me back a little. I do need to see one again in the near future and get a new opinion now that I've repeated my injury several times over.

 

http://www.merckmanuals.com/profess...islocations/overview-of-dislocations#v1110482


from my former employer. review only; maybe some ideas.

 

Thanks Dr. Barry, lots of good info on there.

 

Here's what I know specifically about labrum tears and shoulder dislocations... The longer you wait, the more times it will dislocate, and over time, it will take less and less trauma to cause the dislocation. Surgery done sooner rather than later has better, longer lasting results, with shorter recovery time. They say you should consider surgery after your second dislocation... and a good ortho can almost guarantee it never happens again.

 

Brother! I was at Misquamicut RI on Tuesday on my sponge. A rogue wave CRUSHED me. 10ft+ and I was in the wrong spot at the wrong time. Came up and my shoulder was dislocated too! Unfortunately mine was bad and I couldn't get it in myself. Man it hurt. Had a ride to the hospital to get it popped back in!

Sore as hell right now. I can't even lift it above chest level. Sucks because I'm probably going to miss a lot of good waves

Oh - this is the second time with this arm too. First was about 8yrs ago on my dirtbike!

 

Thanks for the advice man, I know the day will probably come, so I'm just waiting till I'm "ready" I guess.

 

Pretty good session today.

I checked the First Beach cam and it looked way too big and closed out, so I decided to hit a local reef. This particular spot has a huge channel, so it's an easy paddle out and escape if caught, which I needed. I'm still fairly sick with a chest cold, so I really didn't want to have to hold my breath or punch through a bunch of whitewater.

Similarly, since I feel like butt I decided to take the Byrne Easyrider out. At 6'8 and almost 3" thick it paddles like a dream and can cover some ground with ease, and the shape is made for bigger waves. It turned out to be a perfect decision...definitely surfing, but also just getting out.

The path dropped me off on the rocks along one side of the break. As soon as I got to the path I saw probably one of the biggest waves I've seen there, easily 8-10' and thick. So the waves were just detonating on the rocks, making the timing for jumping off rather critical. There was this big outcropping that was about a 3' drop to the water, but when the waves came in it was just underwater, but it was also covered with this slime that is as slick as grease. The plan was to scoot on my butt to the edge of the rock, await some whitewater, and slide in and out. About a 5 yard paddle would put me outside.

So I'm sliding on my butt along this rock, about 10' to the edge when a big set looms. Oh crap. Nowhere to go, it detonates, the whitewater slides up, over the rock, under me, and now I'm being pulled sideways into a gulley between all the rocks. I try to stop, but the rock is so slick that I'm going no matter what. Hit the gully on my butt, try to get to my feet and another wave breaks and about a 3' wall of white water just crushes me back into the rocks. It starts to recede and bruddah, no hesitation, I grabbed my board and just paddled my ass off! Got out relatively unscathed. And this is why I simply love Tuflite boards...a little scratch and that was it. Had it been my poly Merrick, the session would have been over right there.

It took me a while to figure out the lineup, and there was a sick rip that made holding position exhausting, but I got a few really nice rides. Had the particular spot of reef I was surfing to myself for 2.5 of the 3 or so hours I surfed, which made it all the more special. Some seriously shallow spots that made things interesting, but overall I have to declare today a victory. Beautiful day, a handful of very nice waves all to myself, and the Byrne worked like a dream, everything I had hoped for when I bought it. Stoked!

 

I have to go to Westerly tomorrow, so I'm going to try Misquamicut for the first time; I haven't been there yet. Hopefully there will still be some swell in the water.

 

Please remind me to never be seen with you........lol

 

Yeah, I admit to looking around to make sure nobody saw it. Not my finest moment as a surfer. Probably hysterical to see, though.

 

But you have the guts to write up here!! I got a chuckle from it, because that sort of situation happens to ALL of us, at one time or another. Glad you got away from the rocks unscathed! Stay safe; peace!

 

Nice brother! Made the mistake of trying to paddle out at first. After a half hour of paddling the waves were nonstop. Every time I thought I was going to make it, boom, another giant wave appeared. Conceded defeat. For those guys who dislocated their shoulder, do those band exercises everyday. They work.