who here has been surfing this week?

This.

 

Good to know that I'm not the only one who has limited time to surf from time to time!! When I was younger, with less reposnability- I would only consider surfing for 2 hours min... and I surfed a lot! So I had a lot of time lol...not saying that I wish for those days back again, but now I appreciate every wave even more!

This time of year can be rough, less day light in the morning to get in prior to work... plus it's cold!! I went out the other day, it was kinda hard to get motivated.

Got out Thursday morning before work- super fun, fast waves... pretty much closing out every where tho. Got a few good ones- fast long rides... and 2 cover ups... only got about 30 min, if that... due to work. Even tho waves are not as good in the summer- this time of year really makes you appreciate the early sunrise and warm weather! Lol

 

Ha! I'm not sure what the second part of this means but we will go with it lol.

 

Words to live by. Any day you get in the ocean is a good day.

 

Shred till your dead.

 

Did you go out by the weird new thingy by the lake? Any idea what the heck that is? Heard it was throwing a nice wedgy wave on a smaller day last week. Got to check her out to see what its about.

 

Vizslas are strong, thin-skinned bird dogs with very short coats. Beautiful dogs, that hunt fearlessly and will often fight their way through thick briers to get at birds. So it's not uncommon for vizslas to have what's known as, "honorable scars" that even if the dogs are shown, points are not deducted.

http://redbirddog.blogspot.com/2013/03/honorable-scars.html

 

The goods came our way today. Surfed 3 1/2 hour session this morning. Clean long lines wrapping in, thing of beauty.

 

Really good this morning...waist to chest. South wind jumped on it late morning, so I bolted. Good times for a couple hours.

 

This morning for almost two hours with my son. It was great.

 

Na I didn't surf there, havnt even checked the surf at that particular spot lately... and I'm not too sure what's going on- but if I had to guess, I guess it has to do with helping to control the water level in that lake- it always floods and they have that pump station set up at the ocean end of the lake. Plus when ever a big storm or threat of hurricane- they start pumping out the lake, sometimes making a temporary pipe line out across the street.. so maybe this is a permanent fix for that?!

 

There were only two guys there this morning, and only one of my women surf buddies. The guys finished up as we paddled out. They commented that the waves were more fun than they looked. They were inconsistent knee to shoulder highs, 9” interval.

The sky was cloudy in anticipation of TS Philippe. The ocean is still warm at 79, but with no sun and light breezes , and being a Floridian , I opted to wear a 1.5 mm neoprene jacket and capris. It was just the right amount of warmth.

My buddy wheeled me to the ocean and I was pleased tobe able to walk more than before. And to strap on my own leash.

There was chop from SE 10mph breezes. There were pelicans fishing everywhere, and the water was too murky to spot the fish.

At first it was hard to paddle out against the incoming, and I was content to test my body out in the whitewater, as I hadn’t been well enough to surf since Late September. I was having plenty of fun cruising prone in the whitewater.

But then, I saw a nice beak in the incoming and paddled out to the lineup.

The waves by then were pretty big for me, inconsistent chest to shoulder, with some knee to thigh highs, so the lineup was fairly distant from shore, and deep, which is anxiety arousing because my body could fail at any time and could make it hard to get to shore. So, I told myself not to look back at where the shore was, just focus on getting out there.

So, there I was in the lineup with just my buddy, the waves looked formidable, fear crept back in, worry I could seize up in a wipeout.

I said to my buddy, “am taking the next one in. Am psyching myself out”.

The next one in was a chest high wave. Somehow I popped up fast and took the very fun drop. There was a lot of bumpiness on the water, and I hit a nice bump. My legs couldnt absorb it, so I wiped out.

I twisted around and around in the water, spotted the board, flopped onto it, and enjoyed the whitewater ride into shore, grateful the body held out there.

That was not only a fun wave despite the wipeout, but a feeling of excitement of having done it, of not letting illness cripple my mind.

Of reclaiming “Surfer”as part of my identity, rather than “Crippled”.

 

Keep charging, Betty!

 

Betty... you're a surfer. Always will be. Plain and simple.

 

Super rad, Betty. That’s some inspirational content right there. Keep it up and find joy in everything you do. Life’s just a whole lot better with that type of outlook and too short to waste on negativity. Turn your weaknesses into strengths. Shred on!

 

Your strengths are formidable and inspiring, Betty.
Much love and respect!

 

Good stuff, Kanman.

 

Betty, you are def an inspiration!!! Glad you got out for a bit!!!

 

Today was a lot of fun on the LB. It was waist - chest with a stiff offshore / sideshore WNW / NW wind. It was a challenge with the wind but I found myself in the right spot a lot and had some great rides into the wind. I had the place all to myself for the most part. A few paddled out but not near me. Great morning!

 

You can take the girl out of the surf but you can't take the surf out of the girl. Betty you are awesome!