I have no idea where that was, but it had to be an east exposure. I dunno, maybe I should have tried a bit harder, but I didn't. Stoked for the guys with the drive and stamina to search out those conditions...
Another day of poobrown water barrels. Like a mini yesterday... but with nobody out, as opposed to next to nobody out. Just me and about 500 shad.
^jelly. I knew the residual swell would be fun. Wish I could have gone. Good photog friend snagged a couple shots of my friend and I from yesterday in S. MoCo.
Nothing at all like that at VB - the coastal cul de sac of the eastern seaboard. Still, an enjoyable, mellow and longboard-able sesh at noontime today. Water temps now in the mid-60s this last day of October. Lots of bait fish and pelicans.
Yup. I was shocked by the lack of people after work yesterday, given that it was still solidly chest high and hollow with perfect shape (and some of the drops felt bigger with the high tide backwash). Surfed from 4-5, just one other guy out for most of that time. Still so confused. I guess a combination of people getting their fill on Monday and family/kid obligations for Halloween? Idk. I was expecting some ****ty mostly blown out knee to waist high leftovers but yesterday was really only leftovers in a relative sense. As a standalone swell I would have considered it excellent and extremely fun.
This storm was not good for us since the low basically ran into us with 50 knot winds at the shore, but the leftovers yesterday were better than I expected, long clean chest high lines with a plus set every so often. I expected ankle snappers, so it was nice to get in a fun session.
Both yesterday and Monday... same swell direction, same wind direction, same wind pattern (died down in the evening), same poo colored water, same current situation, same water and air temp (only 2 degrees difference), same "mostly-not-makeable-but-a-few-makeable" barrels. The only difference was Monday was 3'-4' bigger. Yesterday was head high on set... so lot's of views, but only a few clean, makeable tubes.
the last few days were pretty fun... I think the sand bars around here have been messed up since September... lots of closeouts...no matter the swell direction... BUT Tuesday was lining up much better, at least at the spot I surfed. the morning was perfect, only one out and perfectly peeling lines... just the right speed... memorable session....
It’s funny how it’s been one of the better fall’s in Jersey in the last few years, and many other east coast spots, but my buddy in Jacksonville says it’s been awful there. He hasn’t surfed in like a month. He said it’s not that there hasn’t been any surf in the last month, just that there hasn’t been much, and he’s usually been working, in the rare event that there’s been something worth paddling out for. He says it’s like being down in South Florida, with the Bahamas blocking everything. Just something he was ranting about earlier, when I was slightly complaining about work and traveling for business, keeping me out of the water lately.
Kinda been crappy last month or so. We’ve had a session here and there to keep from going insane but mostly been blown out and big or flat - barely rideable and clean. When there was swell in the water and favorable winds, the tides were wrong and couldn’t get any before work with limited daylight. By time work is over wind has shifted and it’s not worth racing down there for a 45 minute slopfest. Just been tough to get it all to lineup for an entire day or three. I surfed once last weekend and nothing since, may get some this weekend too. When time changes is when we usually go on a long run of swell.
This won't mean much to you guys south of Hatty, but i trunked it (no top....old man boobs flapping) for an hour this afternoon, along with a couple of others. Water was mid 60s, air 75 with light wind bright sun. The first 45 minutes felt fine - not just bearable...actually comfortable - and was getting a ton of waist high waves on the mini simmons. core got chilly after an hour, slapped on the 3/2 and got another couple hours. I've trunked it in late october before a few times. I've never had a legit fun hour long session in early November before.
Got out for a bit in MA and as I couldn't find my damn boots I did not wear them. And it would have been nice to have them. Air was balmy, water a little chilly now but no need for gloves yet. Waves were choppey but good to get out for the last of the leave work at 2 to go surfing sessions until April I guess. Not a fan of the time shift...
That sucks! So it’s not just his part of the state? That’s suite! I’ve trunked it in mid-October a few times in Jersey. I trunked it my second to last session ago. At least I think it was second to last. I’d have to look back at my posts in this thread to even see when that was. Had to be about 2.5-3 weeks ago by now. Usually I can’t trunk up to the beginning of October, air temps pending. It’s definitely gotten earlier as I’ve gotten older and into my 40’s. I usually put the 3/2 on at about 67-68 degree water temps, no matter the air temperature. I used to be able to do it up until 65, as long as the air was 70 or more. That was up until the last 5-6 years though.