who here has been surfing this week?

I’m afraid not. If I didn’t have a job and could surf during the day during the week all the time it would have been a little better because I could have gotten a few more sessions with the better tides late morning or early afternoon. But I’m not old and retired like my dude o Barry.

 

A couple nooners again this week. Yesterday was really nice - air temps approaching 80, water still in mid 60s. Quite a few dolphin swimming south. Back to Standard Time this Sunday, so "fall back".

 

Waist high poppers yesterday... short rides, but the wind was offshore and water clarity is improving dramatically... which is nice.

 

We're were amazed he was trunking it, hey Mitch did ya forget your 3/2. I'm sure his "nips" were hard, would have been a nice Pic for the Scantily Clad Women Thread ....................

 

headed to Maine this morning for a little D.P. h20 was 50* air was 35* 5-4, boots, gloves, ugh!!! perfect 3 footers with the sun rising from the ground! high as a lab rat with a easy paddle! life is good!

 

This morning.

 

nice

 

I feel the same way during the Spring and Summer, when I don't work, but the swell is non-existent.

This May/June was the best in a very long time, probably since before I took this job!

Hopefully you'll get something soon, dude!

 

Sweet!

 

Thanks, I’m about to go check it to see if today is the day!

 

I went surfing this morning just after sunrise. They don't have the wheelchair available early enough to get to paddle out before sunrise, and as the sunrises. This I miss greatly. I used to arrive before dawn, and watch as the sun began to break the horizon. Its a special, mystical time of the day, especially on the ocean, as many surfers know.

The ocean was chaotic, knee to chest high waves. Lots of shifting rip currents and sideshore currents. It looked like it could spell trouble for my body, so I wisely stayed on the inside on the reformed waves with my friend. When I take whitewater, i stay prone on the board. I need the gravity and speed of coming down the real wave face to stand up. Its like someone is pushing me up from behind.

So many special things happened today at the ocean. I was glad to be there to experience them. Two of the locals confided in me about recent family tragedy. It was very moving to listen to them, to connect with them. Time stood still as they spoke.

Later on at home, I paid dearly for the physicality of it. But it was worth it. I would do it again.

Some people on SI have offered such words of encouragement. It means a lot. And it’s especially wonderful when the local Big Dogs at the beach are encouraging.

 

Special things happen when you put yourself into the time and place where it can.

Keep on keeping on, Betty...

 

This morning was pretty fun at sunrise. I checked one spot and it was swamped out from the incoming full moon high tide. Nothing really worth paddling out for. So I went a little further South to another popular spot that has been working on high tide ever since the last hurricane. Usually this is a low - mid tide spot. It was already crowded before the sun was up. Not what I’m use to but it was the only game in town.

The waves were waist - chest, semi clean, and somewhat organized. Wind was light NW and waves were breaking up and down the beach. Amazing what a 5 minute drive can change. Despite the crowd I got plenty of waves. I rode the 6ft M-80 even though I brought the LB and probably should have ridden it. Didn’t matter though, was having fun. Good vibes in the water too, just a great morning.

 

Yup.

I know that it can be a badge of honor for some in the frozen hinterlands to trunk it, but I'm 59 now. Also from a locale where palm trees are a naturally occurring species. Once water goes <70, it's wetsuite time.

Used ta care, a little, what others thought. Don't care at all now. I put on what I need to in order to enjoy myself.

Take the wetsuite temp chart for today's temp, subtract 10 from that, and that's what it takes.

It prolly don't help that I have only a few % body fat. Not cuz I'm such a stud (NOT!).

Scrawnage.

 

Betty.

One word is all ya gotta say.

 

Yesterday was a paddle out for Cindy, the cabana girl for life, who is on the other side. She used to chirp like a little birdie out in the surf, full of stoke and encouragement and wonder. RIP. Got one for her. Life is goode.

 

Glad you Florida posters scored today!

Also glad you’re in Florida and not where I am! Must be nice!

I’m just 46 now, but I’m sure by the time I’m 59, the suite will be on by 70-72 degree water temps! I’ll probably be in a frickin 4/3 by 60-65 degrees by that time.

I’m scrawny too. Just being up on Canada on business right now, where the high was like 12 degrees (and that’s Fahrenheit, not Celsius!), I come here every year and I can’t understand how anybody older than 35 can live here.

I used to laugh at all the old timers (60+ year old’s) that used to say how bad the cold feels when you’re older, and being in my 40’s is a rude awakening. I know exactly what they meant now.

 

Did anyone get out this weekend? I found some entertaining waist to chest semi clean rides. It was a little mushy and kind of small but the air and water are still warm. Definitely a good time.

What really made the day was I went surfing with this really cool chick. We blared heavy metal the entire way to the beach, surfed and drank some beers. She paddled into a nice set wave and popped up; it was definitely one of the bigger waves of the day, props. The waves were just okay but the good company made the day.

 

yesterday was very rippable all day. i had a blast from DP to the late afternoon sess. def helped with a funboard or LB but it was breaking nice providing some hollowness. there were double dips, took straight to shore. not a lotta ppl out tho there was some current push. just amazing on the reliable 7'6 nsp. did another DP sess this morning w some buds, it got better onto hi tide. plenty of waves there, also nice knowing daylight savings gave me a lotta time to chill before work

 

Yesterday on Delmarva seemed like it started out junky/onshore in the morning. Did some other things, and then around 4 suddenly realized two things - the onshore wind had died, and the daylight was rapidly fading. Got out for an hour before dark (5:30!) of chest high glassy peaky wind swell. Very rippable.