who here has been surfing this week?

Welcome back sphvincter.

Ugh. I threw up in my mouth a little just typing that.

 

Shot from yesterday morning. OCnj. Choppy but the inside reforms were actually really good.

 

hoodie before the booties huh? i'd take those kind of sessions tho, been getting nada for since Monday making this week very long n bothersum

 

Yeah, no surfing at all, but the trip to France was not planned to be--I did this one for my wife. But I must say, I have been to Spain, Portugal, Italy, UK....Paris, as a city, is absolutely incredible, better than the others, IMHO, and by far. We spent a few nights in Paris, then traveled south to the Arles area in Provence, just chilled for several days. We stated at a ranch that was remodeled as a B&B. It was pricey, but really worth it.
Next year we will travel to Bordeaux. There, it is about a 30 minute drive to to Hossegor; I will surf there then a couple of days.
I may do PR in March--just waiting for news as it emerges. Right now, PR is "verboten".

 

Couple more from yesterday. Cassidy McClain

 

I enjoy the pix of groms surfing the most, they all look so focused and stoked. Thanks CJ

 

Just left warm, sunny, flat San Diego to return to cold, wet, windy 2XOH home.

If course, SD picked up the day after I left. Skunked again.

 

Weird angle on these - makes it look like they are about to launch onto the rocks or something.

 

Hope you do not get Hepatitis A....they are presently having an outbreak, even with tourists once they get home.

 

Just got back. It feels like winter now. Kids definitely stoked. Making the most out of some small windy and cold waves.

 

Harsh lighting so my shooting position was determined by trying to avoid the glare. She is actually pretty close to the rocks in these shots. The big lens makes it look even closer. She's probably 10 or 15 yards from the rocks on the end section of these two waves.

 

About to head out for a surf in a few, at least until a little bit after sunset. Hoping to get a couple hours in.

I'm just trying to figure out if I should go 3/2 or 4/3. Water is 59 degrees, but is is COLD out! 37 degree air temps and it might be freezing by the time I get out of the water. And boots are definitely in order today.

 

No worries brah...I already contracted it from Pam Anderson. That, and a scorching case of herpes.

Or did she have Hep C? I keep forgetting

 

Hep C.
BTW, I am not trying to be an asshole with giving you a heads up. If you get real lethargic and your eyes whites seem a bit yellowish--see a doc. Those symptoms are early warnings. Most likely you will be fine and get nothing, but San Diego is having a problem with it right now.

 

Dinosaurs float, WTF?

 

I wouldn't do it looks tiny and dog poopie. Unless you like cold tiny dog poopie waves then enjoy

 

I got out for a early lunch before the tide and wind got on it. Forecast sez 10' @ 11 seconds with 27 mph tomorrow so I ditched work, and blew off a lunch date with my lovely wife to LB the rising swell before it got tattered.

It was bigger when I got there than what I saw on the cams, solid shoulder high liners breaking left from a rising north swell on the incoming push. Only two SUPers out at the midbreak south of the Pier, and one kid a on a shortboard shredding the inside. Got 5 nice long (50 -75 yards) bumpy rides, pretty fast drops and a couple takeoffs HH range. The first one I buried the nose on the drop, but the momentum and the tail rocker plowed it back into open face. The next ones I angled it more, it was really a fun session racing the liners backside before they closed, then doing a few turns in the reform.

Then a client called me as I was in the parking lot, so I closed a deal in my boardshorts, and took my wife out for a late lunch. Life is goode!

 

Haha I was just coming back to post, that today's actual forecast does not corroborate with the swellinfo forecast. I've looked at a few cams, and it's either flat or tiny and choppy mush.

And it was too late in the day and close to sunset, to be driving around to the spots I sometimes frequent, that do not have the luxury of having a cam to look at.

Definitely not worth going out for. I think a nap is in order. Maybe when I have off again on Monday, I'll get something nice to surf, but I ain't holding my breath.

 

Good stuff.

Have been to The City of Light many times. Something about it....amazing. You'll like Hossegor, get a car so you can surf trek to the spots like Le Nord, and Cap Breton, and that other place where that certain American world champion surfed many years, maybe even Biarritz (although your wife will destroy your bank account shopping in Biarritz). There's a reason that Quiksilver world HQ is right there along the highway....

back to the treade, perdon

 

And gracias, fellow banned forever compadre Keed Piedra