who here has been surfing this week?

Turkey Day morning: Flat, windy, and cold. No surfing today, unless something changes. Gym (open 24/7) and a long walk will have to do today.

 

I'm kinda glad, no temptation to ditch family. Surf is best served during the work-week.

 

When I looked at it this AM, completely flat. All of a sudden there is a wave thigh to waist, but with strong off shores. Wind chill 22*F.....
Seems also long wait for sets.

 

Peajay where/when did you surf? I had one of those seshs where it was good and bad at the same time. Lots of closeouts. The ones that stayed open where great but felt pretty far and few between. I was out early though. I'm guessing the tide filing one might of helped things out.

Got a little to used to my go to spot recently, gotta get back on top of my recon

 

I went out at 8am north mo.co. The wave were stomach to chest hi and clean all rights. got barreled, watched a dude take off to late under the lip, he snapped his bort. Watched anouther guy go swimming in his boxers, he actually stayed in the water for a solid 30 min ducking waves the whole time. The tides dropping now going back out in 30.

 

Had a fun morning, not epic conditions, but fun. Seemed extra cold for some reason today. Happy Thanksgiving you turkeys!!

 

Fun waves this afternoon! You all know where i surfed.. paddled out around noon and it was pretty much classic. Nice long peeling waves. Some guys said it was really closing out and ng in the morning...must have gotten it just at the right tide and spot. Got a nice little barrel to end the day!

It almost reminded me of a thanksgiving swell a few years ago (3-4 yrs??) it was over head and perfect super long liners. The kind of waves that just make you start laughing cause they are so good... it was kinda like that... just cause it was a thanksgiving swell

 

I got out for about 2.5 hours today. It wasn’t bad, but the water sure cooled down to where it typically is this time of year. It’s like 49 now, might have been 60 still just at the start of this month.

Wish I could have stayed in a little bit longer, but needed my sleep, so I didn’t get up early enough for it.

 

So, on TDay, I did end up going surfing. Early around 6:30AM, it was flat. By noon, a swell had come up and the wind died down. It also warmed up to 40*F. Waves were shoulder high, a rare head high came in. I went out at high tide and had several long fast rides.; my last ride kept walling up as I raced across the face right in front of but not in, the tube. As I pulled out, my leash came off my leg, my board washed up into the rocks and now needs a bit of repair.
With wetsuits and boots, the leg leash-strap always seem too short to go completely around my ankle area. It always seems as if I could use a couple of more inches length velcro surface area to produce a viable hold. And I am not a chubby guy--rather slim I am. Anybody feel the same about leashes?? That could be a viable business--making a cold-water specific leash. Most leashes are not made for thick wetsuits, imho. That is a failing of surfing gear, and an opportunity for a "niche" business.

 

Barry!! You havnt learned by now how to properly attaché a leach?? Maybe Brad could help?? Lol

I have noticed the same, but have also noticed that different brand/style leaches are slightly longer then others... I think I have a ' poor boys' leash that is a little longer, as well as dakine (which I like much better).

Maybe check out a few at your local shop... just a thought, I have noticed the same with certain brands

Bummer about your bort

 

the velco area is definitely too small.

 

Not worried about board--it is fixable.
I have about 10 leashes--the older ones have longer velcro straps; that means I chose the wrong leash for the surf/board/conditions for the day. Live and learn. All makers are now shortening, but slightly widening the strap. For cold waters length is more essential than width, imho.

 

Try a different brand of leash. At work right now. I run into same issue with some of my leashes but not others. Pretty sure it is the FCS leashes that are too short.

 

Got out this morning for some thanksgiving leftovers in central NJ. waist to chest, light offshores, pretty fun. Was bitter to get out and go to work when it seems most are of, but I think I caught the best conditions this morning had to offer anyway. Was on the fence about getting up for it.....but glad I did.

 

Twas strange, went from dead flat to head high in a couple of hours. Looked so clean and perfect at noon, but alas, I had to head to Thanksgiving dinner at my girlfriend's so had to miss it. I hate missing surf, but family first. glad you got out burry.

 

I looked a the few I have ,most are different brands--the only difference I found was that the older ones ,10 yrs old, were longer with their velcro straps. Newer ones are all the same--shorter. But I will go to my local surf shop and see there how they differ, if at all. So, that means some will be used for summer, others for winter.

 

Thanks--I had not had a nice day since returning from France. And yes, that swell came up quite a bit in a short span of time. Seeing as how this year we are celebrating TDay this Sunday (my daughter has friends visiting from London), I was able to get out.

 

Fun surf in the sun north of Boston today. Got crowded about when I left.