it was a chop show yesterday, but i called out sick and was feeling aight after i left the office - go figure. going out at mid to hi tide seem to be the only time to get after it. nobody out there prob for good reason, took on some waist hi pockets with a small current and moments of providing a seawall to line down. went back to the house to switch up to a smaller board from the 7'2" i brought which worked well, but a couple hours out there made me rethink and i called it a day
I went to the beach stoked for a waist - chest glass session but when I got to the beach it was struggling to break in the knee - waist range, and I didn’t have my LB with me, so I pulled another Barry and went home. That’s two days in a row now. Tomorrow better produce!
After work sesh at Dam Neck yesterday until evening colors played. Air temp 49, water 54. Nothing notable - only a handful of rides - but always better than not paddling out.
Did back to back sessions as Second Beach. Man alive but I have completely forgotten how to surf. Weds wasn't too bad in the 4/3, but I was pretty cold after 3 hours; it took me a couple of hours to warm back up when I got home. Surf was solid, clean, and really good, but I just could not seem to catch a wave, and when I did catch them, I simply couldn't get to my feet quickly enough. Mostly I'm just out of shape, but part of it was also adjusting to all that rubber, probably needed a thicker board, and just out of practice. Yesterday wasn't too much better, although it was smaller. It's amazing how crowded a lineup can get once one or two SUP'ers paddle out.
Strong cold offshores with chest-to-shoulder lines. Checked it at peak low but waited it out a couple hours until the tide filled in a little bit, sets were HH+ making long groomed walls. Super fun for a 45 minute window until the tide got too fat. More on tap all this week into next. Stoked
Regarding the tides, we have to do the same waiting game or adjustments for tides. We are not far from Bay of Fundy, and we do get 10ft tidal differences....makes it both interesting and frustrating. Growing up in PR, I think we had 10 inch tidal differences.
So it turns out as the tide filled in yesterday and further North it was a little better. To bad I missed it. Today was much like yesterday at the same spots so I ended up at a spot I don’t normally hit further North. It was breaking better up there and kinda fun but not exactly the quality I was hoping for last two days. Still, I caught some waves to start my day.
I still managed the 4/3 on wed (pretty good for dec), but artic weather is coming so it will be full winter garb from here till March. btw, I tried on my 6/5 briefly, turns out I'm fat.
Looks like there is potential for some serious surf on Sunday for Rhode Island and Long Island, going to be the first real winter storm of the year.
I hear ya, Sigmund. I'm not even going to fool around on Sunday; I'm taking out the fat guy board and just embracing my suck.
We just had a King Tide period last week during the full moon where it went from a high of 12 1/2 feet to a low of -2.5 feet...basically a 15 foot swing. Usually mucks up the swell unless all the other conditions are perfect, and paddling against the incoming tide is like paddling upriver. Usually the best surfing here is during the new moon phase when the tides aren't as radical. OH to well OH lines groomed by strong offshores again. Got some great rides, body starting to suffer a little from a very good run of surf. Swell is changing from long period (15-16 secs) from straight West to medium period SW swell tomorrow, which is the preferred direction here. Forecast should bring every swinging **** with a surfboard from 3 hours away for the weekend. Keeping my fingers crossed and hoping the body holds up for another couple of days.
It was ok today, nothing special. Cold front rolled in while I was in the water. It was kinda warm early on but by 9-10am it got chilly. It was grey and gloomy. Still, I was in trunks and a 2/1 pullover. Waves were pretty gutless and waist high, maybe a bigger peak here and there but the rides were short. The offshores were just knocking them down. I got a dozen or so waves and a few were decent.