Fun day today... Found a place with long, clean lines where the crowd wasn't a factor. A little inconsistent, but solid chest high sets... hollow and not too fast. Took out the longboard just to change it up. Only one decent noseride, but a couple little coverups felt good.
Got out a lunch time today, 1 hr past low tide. Nice swell running, most chest high , a couple of head highs. In 2 hrs I had about 10 nice waves, good shoulders with a long wall. Fortunately I chose the right board to take today (G&S Magic). Seems we may have a repeat for Tuesday.
dug out from 8 inches of snow, and an overnight power outage to score some fun wintry lefts. It seemed slightly hardcore with snow on the beach and 28 degree air temps, but realistically, the water is in the 50s so its still fall surfing. Great day to be a goofy foot on Delmarva - lines outta the north. Surfed 8-11 shot first picture before rest afterwards.
Fun surf out on Cape Ann earlier this afternoon. Little chilly when I got out but not too bad. Really, as long as there isn't a stiff breeze, changing is ok when it's in the 30s.
Picked the wrong reef today, but I didn't have time to drive into Newport. Checked the cams when I got home and hot damn but Point Judith looked like it was absolutely firing. If I didn't know better I would have said the surf looked more like Steamer Lane than a RI reef. I think that's the last surf I'm going to get out of the 4/3 this season. I was pretty chilly the whole time.
Some fun ones today. Chilly cleaning the ice of f the car this morn. It the water is still real warm comparably. Overheard this gem of a conversation in the water: surf dude 1, “ I got a hemroid it hurts like a biotch”. Surf did 2, “yeah man you were telling me about that last night”. Surf dude 1, “nah man I just got it”. Surf dude 2, “oh man maybe you were telling me you were getting one”. Me caught the next anything that came threw and got away from those weirdos. What is the world coming too
Saturday brought some clean chest hi waves. couldn't wait for a couple buddies to get out there, so i took a session a tthe home break. it wasn't breaking that well and the small lineup that early morning, hi tide was at like 12, couldn't find the line either. had a handful of rides, left n right, but nothing spectacular. after toasting up next to the wall heater, rode with the guy to the washout with shorter boards which wasn't ideal as longboards ruled the water. shorter session, rides were faster n water was still cold. nothing anticipated in the next week so it's gonna be pretty miserable being landlocked
Fun ones yesterday, went for about 3 hours straight and had about 30 waves. Was best about 90min before high tide - hoping for late day sess tomorrow
Looks fun! Glad the conditions cooperated. I missed this swell, my new tattoo is still healing. See you all next swell.
Hopefully, with any luck, you will get Hep C or HIV from your new tattoo. One less in the water!!! Bwahahahahahaha!!!!!
Too funny man!! hahaha. Be careful out there this winter. The cold weather is tough on old geezers ha! A funeral home owner once told me "The winter is great for Business; the old people start dropping like flies." Alright back to surfing posts.
Moderately fun session from 330 till dark yesterday. Knee to waist high and super clean, but pretty weak and soft due to the high tide. Started to improve with the outgoing tide, but it was a little too late (last 15-20 min before dark). Long rides though, very long rides, just not enough power to do much but go straight down the line. But it's all good. Thankful for whatever I can get this time of year, especially on a weekday. Looks like maybe something tomorrow, or not. We'll see. Then headed north for the weekend cause VT is getting dumped on right now.
Same in OCMD. paddled out at 3:15 and a cold front was in the process of coming through. the warm sunny conditions we had all day had given way to clouds, spitting rain and a cold breeze from the NW - i really expected sideshore north wind at any moment bu tit never came. A short period south wind swell was wrapping up the beach creating these little 2 foot right grinders. surfed till 4:30 and got out just as a friend rolled up...there was hardly anyone around and it was getting dark so i paddled back out with him and surfed these little rights until you couldnt see anymore....after 5. The section of beach we surfed was just pumped full of sand 3 weeks ago and is already adjusting nicely with a little cliff on the beach, and finer grained sand getting pulled off into the nearshore. The dead high tide really helped it break better where we were.
Found one spot that had a little more juice, but for the most part, it was doing the same thing here.
Got out twice last week. Since then VB water temps have dropped almost 5 degrees and flatness forecasted to continue through at least next Wed. Maybe use this time to do my X-mas shopping.