who here has been surfing this week?

Highly mediocre and very cold lunchtime session in central Monmouth just now. Had a feeling based on the cams it was gonna be worse than expected but had already made arrangements with boss to take a long lunch and make up the time at the end of the day so just kinda went with it.

Last wave made it worth it, thigh high but pretty fast and lining up for a while (relative to my other rides of course). But it was basically knee high, bumpy, sectiony, and mostly closing out. And cold. I'm still in a 4/3, but it was my hands and feet that were feeling it the most (prob gonna need new gloves and boots to get through the winter). Not too bad in the water, but the changing afterward sucked. First session that really felt like winter surfing, back at my desk now with that familiar can't-quite-get-warm feeling. Always better to surf than not surf, though maybe just barely today.

 

Yesterday was one of those days in the mid-atlantic where the forecast south windswell clocks a few degrees more SSW than the straight S swell angle that was forecast, and the 3 foot potential becomes 1-2 foot reality and too short period. Its a little easier to take in mid July when you expect ankle slappers anyway...

 

It is 10*F this morning here on the beach in NH.
Any of you southerners want to go out up here.
Not me!!!
It is flat anyways.

 

It’s flat againe today and probably will be all week. If waves were to come along and it were 10*F I would find a way to paddle out in my 3/2, thermal under shirt and 2 mil shorts, boots, gloves and hood. Not sure how long I would last but I’m going in!!!

 

Yea, sucked yesterday. Needed a wavestorm to have a shot a rafting something but no thanks when the temps are 10*F

 

One more week until I'm medically cleared to surf and exercise again. In the meantime, I've been impregnating myself with saturated fats and sugars.

 

Hang in there dude!

 

Thanks man. At least it's cold and crappy right now.

 

Yep, it's flat for the foreseeable future. Don't think you'll miss a thing.

 

Flatter here....

 

Haven't been able to surf anyway, but the forecasts have looked terrible. I've heard it's been pretty lousy over the last week or two. Lack of pictures, a lot of guys talking on here, a lot of friends that I've talked to.

The next week looks awful, also. Hoping for some Christmas swell, while I have a few days off next weekend/early next week.

 

What da hell youz doing up so early??
I thought only us geezers did that?

 

flaaaaaaaaaaa...t-ugh - starting to withdrawl

 

While everyone in the Mid Atlantic was shivering last week I was in the warm DR with my pops on some vaca. We stayed in Punta Cana, where I would not have chosen as a first destination, but he paid and I wasn’t saying no to that.

I was fortunate enough to get some fun surf in at Playa Macao, a beach/reef break about 25 minutes north of all the resorts.

The surf was long period and ranged from waist to head high. The sun was out and water warm, about 80degrees air and water. Trunked it the whole time. The beach had several breaks, but I surfed their main one close the shop. Never more than about 5 people and all good vibes from locals and guests.

It was the most fun mushy wave I’ve ridden. 100-200 yard lefts and rights that would sometimes line up and just GO! These waves allowed for carves and rebound cutbacks that were so much fun. I rented boards from their local shop, a 6 foot hybrid and 9 foot hybrid/ performance log. That log I rode was meant for those waves. It was like a flying saucer and was so responsive with serious tail rocker. It made me want to find the exact same board. Most stoked surf sessions I’ve had in a while. Trunking it made it that much better.

Along the way I met and surfed with the most OG surfer on the island, Gustavo Alvarez. He was pushing 70 and was one of the first inhabitants on the island to surf, after being given a board from US troops that were stationed in the southern part of the island in I want to say the early 50s. Dude was rad and had hella stories to share. One of the most interesting parts of the trip was just him talking about all of his worldwide travel and surf experiences along the way.

If you ever get stuck in Punta Canada, maybe you’ll luck out like me and grab a few swells. If you do, check out Macao surf camp and ask for Gustavo to give you rides. Prices weren’t too bad for round trip
transportation and board rentals.

Here’s a few shots from the trip. Gustavo and I below.








Last shot is of Gustavo’s kin slaying Puerto Escondido. Savagery.

 

Sorry for my book. Been a while since I posted here.

 

Good stuff dude, no apology needed!

 

That's good information. I've looked at that spot because of the potential for a family vacation with some surfing thrown in. Plus, NJ has been so flat it's nice to hear somebody got to surf.

 

agree, good read. I been hearing good things about surf in DR just been hesitant to travel there

 

Not me. I haven't surfed in 3 weeks. I'm cleared to get back in the water now.

 

I am going thru withdrawl!