A Surfers Mind

Love the stoke man. I look back in my life and wish I could have done things differently for surfing. You get a pass until 30 after that you gotta produce. That's my opinion.

We've all sacrificed a lot for surfing. Money, holidays, relationships.... we all know the scorned look....All I can say is grow your stoke.

 

I was married and the surfing pretty much stopped. Never again! I told the new woman, I stopped once and that will never happen again! She is ok with it.

 

I made it a point with my now wife to stand my ground when it comes to the water. I can compromise on most things but you are not taking or reducing the amount I want to surf away! She's always been pretty cool when I surf local but anytime I wanted to travel I got an earful on the "better things" I could be spending my money on. Now, she just accepts I am going to do what I want when it comes to waves and I could not be happier.

 

I am not dedicated, it is not a passion. I just surf. If one sacrifices everything for surfing--well--that is stupidity. And I bet I have sucked the milk out of a lot more waves than most others.
It is just so lame to think you are "at one with the Earth", etc.
What is next from jester?......passionate about being a yoga slut?? lol

 

I, for one, like yoga sluts...

 

o Barry

 

And sometimes I still miss waves for things she has planned, but for the most part, I go when I want. I told her, there are worse things that I could be doing, but I am not, I am surfing.

 

O Barry your new nickname is El Lechero

 

This is a good thread for me. I feel like I have to make a sacrifice between spending time with family and surfing, always. This year in particular, always swells around holidays and other times where I gotta be back home. My family lives 4 hrs from Jerz, inland Southern MD - western side of the Chesapeake Bay. There’s water but no waves...

Currently, I have some internal strife between going home early Saturday to spend time with fam or waiting it out to grab waves Sunday before going.

Need advise. Someone please be the devils advocate and tell me to stay. Deep down I feel bad and know I should probably get back, but missing swells SUCKS. Especially when there isn’t jack swelling up in the ocean this time of year. Damn it man. Decisions decisions.

 

It can be an issue.Vacation planning is the real conflict.I want Indo, Haw,Aus,Centro Am...she wants Italy,France etc.I say OK- France (Hossegor?).She asks is that a surf spot? Well...

 

it's a mental health issue - those that love you should understand that, but sometimes don't...

 

A Surfers Mind -

 

Dude they can wait. No sense going home early and being miserable. It's better to go home stoked/happy and give that vibe to the fam. Rather than show up and be miserable.

 

Sounds like the cold has milked the excitement out of you old man. Maybe try Flordia haha

 

Waves will always be there... but you never know how long we, or other family members are promised time here on earth...

With that being said, the swell forecast (at this moment) doesn't even look that great... I always try to save it for the times when it's really good... but that's the thing- sometimes you never know when it's gonna be really good! Lol that was probably no help...

 

If you call it "therapy", the naysayers have to STFU

I pick my battles, if it's epic, someone has to be on their deathbed to change my plans. If it's meh, no sense in having a hissy fit.

 

I havent been out in 2.5 weeks. Anything 3 ft and semi clean or better looks epic lol

 

Simple. Family always comes first.