A Surfers Mind

Nope--I was just out a few days ago - 35*F air, 46*F water.....waist to shoulder waves. Still like it. But I don't get all misty eyed about being a surfer. Never forget--surfers are morons; they are evolutionary throwbacks, Neanderthals at best. And that includes YOU!! And me.......

 

Exactly what I say - could be putting on another type of rubber

 

I like the sentiment, but let's face it, just about every session involves some small family sacrifice. It's all about balance. If you haven't surfed in 3 weeks and the surf is OH and pumping, then barring a family wedding or Christmas morning, you need to go surf. If you've surfed the last 3 days, and it's still pumping, but your kid has a soccer game, then soccer wins.

 

Seems reasonable to me.

 

Sig said it... it's all about balance. My wife knows she married a surfer-moron. She doesn't get it, but understands I'll never be out cutting the grass or cleaning the garage if there's waves. I just let my conscience be my guide... showing up late to a family BBQ is different than not being around on a holiday weekend.

 

Well, kinda. Example: Wife goes to the beach with me 90% of the time because she's a beach girl. A couple of weeks ago was a clam tide and the surf was way too big, so I decided to check out a little nook that knocks down the swell right before clamming.

It was *totally* going off.

So, as much as I wanted to surf, I had to pass it up (2 days in a row!!!) to keep the wife clam-happy.

Priorities, ya know.

 

One step further away from that world title.....

 

Well nobody ever confused me for John John Florence. Jean Claude Van Damme maybe.

 

Sunday is Christmas Eve. We have prolly 30 people over at my house. My wife is already preparing for the onslaught. Sunday AM looks like we may have something to ride. After that, back to fo flatness. She will be up at dawn with a giant to-do list. I WILL surf. It's been over 3 weeks for me cause of the surgery. I'm willing to risk the hand cuffs, whippings, cattle prod, and strap-on that I'm sure I will receive for such a holiday transgression. Such is life.

 

Too much west in the swell component.
Will likely be weak for Jerz. Enjoy time with the fam!

 

Forecast is definitely too sloppy to stay now. I appreciate all the advise though. Life is definitely all about balance. Being a surfer in a location with very variable swell makes it much harder.

Had it been a nor’easter with a forecast of head to overhead perfection Christmas would have been cancelled.

 

Hopefully you went full Brazilian since we last discussed this matter.

 

Our forecast is exactly the same for tomorrow, except throw in 25 mph offshores. Should be interesting.

 

I was just talking to a friend who said his girl wouldnt be happy about him surfing Christmas eve/Christmas morning. I don't get it. You get up early, surf, your back by 10. What's there to be upset about. My fiance is urging me to go surf. Its been to long and she knows i need it. I don't get some women.

As far as family always coming first. Not for me. I mean if its somthing serious of course. But Christmas morning? Come on. Screw the family for a few hours in the morning and get some waves. I generally only see my grandparents thanksgiving and Christmas..... hadn't seen them in at least 5 years. Might be waves man. Pops says there getting old, i should visit. Don't know hore much time they have left. I say..... nah, there might be waves.

 

My family is fine with me surfing but i choose to sacrifice also. My son plays competitive sports and i rarely miss a game. Requires travel and none of the places have waves. I got to surf once in Ft Myers but usually we are landlocked. Yep - i miss some surfs but the time with my wife and kid are precious. We do bring fishing rods so that helps!

 

We each travel our own path. Mine is different than yours--I put family above everything else, always have. As a suggestion - this Christmas, visit your gramps--surprise them--they will see it as a great Xmas gift.
Even though we differ in this matter, I still wish you a great Christmas. Oh, and if you do visit gramps--tell 'em Barry, another gramp, says hello!!

 

Why get yourself into a marriage/family setting when you know surfing will be a point of contention, either internally or actually between youse?

I guess that point has passed now, but that seems key if surfing is really something you can’t live without and will take an effort to enjoy. You have to make that very known before diving into this family thing (if surfing is more than just a few times a month). But hey what do I know? I’m just a dude on the internet that looks like a North Korean dictator.

Waves will always be there. Go fish closer to home, be thankful you don’t live in Nebraska and can still experience salt water.

 

What?? You look like aNorth Korean dictator?? If so, I just want to know who your hair stylist is?? I think he/she must be the same one that styled Adolf Hitler and his crew of merry wackos......

 

Christmas morning itself, especially with a small child who gets up around 6, it would take a really good swell for me to go at first light. But that's by my choice. We are all morning people, so my wife is usually up before first light too and my own ideal start to Christmas day this year was to sit on the couch drinking coffee with my wife while my daughter chased the pets around the house (this is also the first time we are having christmas at our own house, and the first christmas since her dad passed away, so other factors at play there too).

All those unique individual circumstances aside though, I don't really get the objections either. My wife actually said one morning last week, pretty much verbatim, "please try to figure out when the waves are going to be best over the weekend and on Christmas so we can plan everything around your surfing schedule." Haha I feel like I'm making it up reading that back but I swear those words came out of her mouth. She went on to clarify that she mostly just didn't want my parents to show up for Christmas dinner while I was out surfing, but everything else was completely flexible. Fair enough, and if the waves had been that good I'd just cancel on my parents. I don't think I could ever be married to someone who made me choose between them and surfing. Which I guess is just an overly wordy way of saying I'd choose surfing. Which is probably why my wife would never make me choose...