oh man... make me reminisce of an old spot that I used to surf all the time... probably the same spot that you were surfin.... cool you made it out!
Today was meh. It was chopped up and disorganized but at times wave faces would appear semi clean on the sets with light - moderate SE winds. Lots of white water. Chest high or bigger with relentless shorepound, South - North drift, seemed like a lot of rips and side current which added up to a lot of paddling and duck diving with little reward. After a couple waves I paddled in, wasn’t worth the effort.
Got a few fun ones after work... small and inconsistent, but the sets were clean and fast and hollow. Stuffed myself into one little one and had to laugh... must have set the record for smallest tube ever ridden. Lacked the kind of pop it probably had this morning, but the wind was light and straight offshore... nobody out... the water was blue and clean... Just me and a cormorant, each of us trying to satisfy our hunger.
Went this am at first light. Nothing spectacular, but I had a few fun rights in the waist to chest range. Super drained out at the low tide and chilly. Looks like Sunday might bear some goods.
Got a few on the incoming this morning... rainy, glassy... a little bit of current on the inside and around the jetties. But the sets were coming pretty consistently, and it felt good to be on the shortboard for a change. But it was a Dirty Jerzy session, for sure... the runoff bringing every manner of flotsam into surf zone. Made sure I got a few sinus fulls to build the immune system. Nobody out... at least that I could see... which wasn't very far due to the rain and fog. I couldn't help but wonder how many more solo sessions are left before the weather turns and the crowds start to show up. Counting my blessings... for now.
Got out this AM. Pleasantly surprised. Thought I'd have to wait for the swell to build, but didn't. It had size right off the bat and just built through the whole sesh. Rainy, foggy, no wind, outgoing tide, stomach-shoulder high. I actually had a bad sesh, but that's on me not the waves. Just couldn't seem to get the right ones. The 4 other old LBers i was with got some screamers though. I did get some, just not as much as I'd like. I know this thread is about stoke. But I'm pretty much over this winter. Winter never bothers me. I look forward to it. But ever since the first sesh in the 5/4 this year, iv just felt off my game a bit. Have been some fun days for sure. But i feel allot of days its just been weird. Hard to get a read on them and position yourself properly. I don't know. Just haven't had that classic day (regardless of size) in a long time. For the first time ever, i can't wait to shed some rubber
I took the LB for a spin today, it wasn’t perfect by any means, but it was waist - chest with some bigger sets maybe up to head high range on a couple. Wind was light sideshore out of the South, making it a little bumpy but not terrible. It was a little chunky and there were some steep drops but I managed to stick them all, never falling once and finishing most rides with a kick out. The wave of the day was probably my last wave, larger than any of my previous waves. I did everything I wanted to that wave and rode it almost to shore and bellied in the the last few yards. Water and air around 70 this morning, I wore the Spring suite but could have trunked it. I’m ready for some Spring swells!
Fun session today; a lot of current. It felt like being on a surfing treadmill. Had to constantly paddle for position. The waves were a little small (Knee-waist+ with a few sneaker sets) but what they lacked in sized they made up for in form. A good one would peel from the end of a certain jetty all the way to the sand. Caught some fun peelers and a good work out. I rode my hybrid short board until my arms were cramped up and then brought out the long board. 50+ degree air temps in Febuary... Not bad.
Surfed a foggy session this afternoon with some decent size and power. Chest to shoulder high on sets and punchy. Good a good workout paddling around chasing the shifty peaks, getting worked on a few duck dives.
Yesterday: Cloudy, SSW wind, a bit of drift, and 73 degrees out. Not too shabby. The wind started to crank up as the incoming tide was perfect...fickle EC! Caught 1/2 dozen waves that were decent and a few that just shut down.
Got out this morning. Fun. Warm Air! That darn north wind.. otherwise it would have been perfect peeling chest to shoulder sets with easy paddle out. Instead you had to bunny hop the north chop whilst whipping down the line! Fun..fun... No one out....like literally.
Like everyone else has said....it's been super foggy but with rideable waves and semi-warm temps. I've got in a few ok surfs but it seems like the really good conditions have gone down over night which pisses me off like nothing else! My wife captured this top photo of me surfing some super high tide reform at sunset and the other one is of this groundhog's day fog that will never lift. Waiting on the wind to switch now but hopeful to get in a fun session today.
You summed up exactly how I felt getting out of the water this morning. Usually surfing helps me bust out of any funks, but it definitely just added to it today. Being stuck in my office for 50+ hours a week doesn't help either. But, fuck it, maybe I'll take off on Friday if the conditions line up.
I got a fun marathon session in yesterday from about 12:45 until dark with three of my buoys. It was fun rights in the waist to shoulder high range on the biggest sets. Kinda messy early on and then later found south wind protection. Got one chest high wave that was super long, really walled up and just kept unraveling for a hundred yards or so of glide. Water was straight gruesome, it looked like a brown toilet bowl. Hence the term durty joizy. Feeling way out of it today. Any longer than 4 straight hours of surfing and I get some serious second day fatigue. Any one else experience this? Any rituals that help clear the fogginess? Whatever, life goes on. Just stoked I got out for an extended session and it was warm.
Got out yesterday for the first time in quite a while. Not epic conditions but still had fun! Even though the water is still cold as hell, the air temps almost had me sweating in my suite.