who here has been surfing this week?

After a good surf I usually drink some beers.

 

Yea... cut it to 3 hours, max, and get back in the next day!

I've been spreading it around this week... surfing some spots I don't normally go to. Went back to an old favorite after work today, having eyeballed it a few times in passing. Grabbed the gear and went straight to it without checking, and when I got there it was kinda weird. Sandbars seemed sorta funked up, and it there was a swirly-ness to the current by the rocks.

The North wind that was blowing all day was finally backing down, and the swell was still holding at 3-4' out of the south. So even thought the wind wasn't really putting much texture on the surface or creating a lot of current, the residual energy was still moving water around and putting a crossed-up bump on it. It was one of those, "well... I'm already here, so might as well go" sessions.

I paddled out on the fish and got pretty frustrated at first. I blamed it on the transition back to the fish after not surfing it for a couple of weeks. But really... it was me... and the surf. Neither of us were showing our best stuff.

Then, just before dark... it cleaned up beautifully. The evening glass-off was textbook. The sky lit up with some shades of orange and pastel yellow... fading to dimming midnight blue as darkness crept in. The sets kept lumbering in, and I kept paddling back out. Another dude all the way down at the next jetty kept doing the same, refusing to leave... knowing tomorrow it would be gone.

 

Yesterday was waist to chest and steady windchoppe with a few walls and lots of weak peaks. It was very crowded as my local was the only spot working and the kids were all over it. I got a few, took the wrong boart out again!, too stiff so I could turn it barely, should have taken the swallow tail out instead of the round tail - no lift, needed more power.

On the bright side, got some sun on the old bones, trunked it. Life is goode.

 

Right on bro. Everyone's gotta eat.

 

I am going to south-central Florida next week for some surfing!

 

This basically describes how I felt all of September. No idea how to clear the fogginess, I just roll with it. Kinda love that feeling actually, but I'm a bit of a masochist.

Very quick but fun session just before dark yesterday. Thigh to waist high with a couple slightly bigger sets. Surfed with a couple friends and no one else. First session on something other that longbort since early fall (7'6" pintail egg, which for my fat ass is basically a shortbort). Super fun and no issues getting used to it again. Missed sunday because I was in VT, missed last thursday too, so it was good to get out again for first time in about a week. Greatly improved my mood.

Likely won't surf again for a week or so. Going to Portland, OR tomorrow for five days to visit my brother. Bringing a wetsuite as we are going to be out on the coast on Saturday, but forecast not looking so good right now (15-20+ mph onshores). Friday looks fun though, so I'm hoping things slide to the right a bit. Then again, we'll be near seaside so maybe poor conditions are for the best... not 100% in the mood to get the sh*t beat out of me, which I gather is kind of a thing there.

 

Solid chest high this morning with a few peaks in the shoulder / head high range. It was deep coming off high tide but it was breaking through when the sets appeared. Wind was light out of the South putting a little bit of bump on it but not too bad. I decided to ride the Fish today, a little tired of the LB.

I had a kook moment right before paddling out. As I was standing in thigh / waist deep water waiting for a lull I zoned out while staring at the horizon, next thing I know a wave dumps right in front of me and is deeper and more powerful that expected, it hit me and knocked me flat lol I was held down with my boart and the fin cut and bruised my knee a little bit. I got up and looked around and saw a couple fisherman who were watching the whole thing, I laughed and gave them the thumbs up! Then I paddled out and caught a couple solid waves right away to show I’m not a total kook, just a part time one lmao

I got a few more rides and took my last one almost to shore. It was a fast left that I was able to really lean into and get low while dragging my hand. So much damn fun and it felt good to redeem myself.

 

going to be out in DE this weekend, looks like I picked the perfect time to be skunked...

 

Intro tread prease....

 

Is your girlfriend coming?

 

Wait, isn't Petra a girl's name????

 

Yeah. That's hot.

 

wait, our newest SI member is a hot russian lesbian surfer with a hot girlfriend and no one's asked for pics yet?

this place really has gone to sh*t.

 

Even if you think its too warm, wear a rash guard, the man o war are here, more in some spots, not too bad in others, but it only takes one.

 

So my wife invited me to take off work early and go to the beach and send some quality time on Valentines Day. Of course I said yes. Did not take a board.....out of nowhere, totally unforeseen, there was a chest high swell, long lulls, not much wind, and not too long after getting settled on the beach with my babe, I see my buddy take his LB out and get wave after wave after wave from all the way outside to the beach, over and over. I better get laid good tonight, lmao. Over and over.

 

Looks like something fun on Saturday! This might be a bad idea. Posting this and all. But Saturday is looking like it could be shaping up to be the day iv been longing for. Small. Waist high. Full tide early. Offshore. Sounds like the perfect mini sims day. I'm not concerned with size. I don't discriminate. Its all about shape to me. Pick the right spot/bar... could be good. Not a sesh, but I'm stoked on the possibility. As you can tell from my last post, I'm needing a nice shape sesh to get some of my mojo back. Hope i didn't jinx it.

 

Where you at in DE and when, Friday there might be a bump in the water, maybe Sunday although unlikely

 

WTF is surfing? I forgot that I even own borts after this recent stretch.

Just too much work lately, I'm really burnt out with work, for one of the very few times in the almost 7 years that I've been doing this. Been out of town and when I'm in town, I barely even have town to do laundry anymore. I can't even remember if I've surfed once since getting back from Rincon almost 5 weeks ago! That's a hell of a consolation, I guess? I don't even have time to change the oil on my truck, which thankfully is not my daily driver! It's mostly been parked for a while now!

It's a shame because the forecast looks pretty damn suite this week!

 

You’re not joking, them jokers are everywhere.

 

That's the curse of surfing.
The beach has become just something I pass on my way to the water.