who here has been surfing this week?

Attached are some shots of the recent NorEaster from up in the mountains.

 

YEEWW! Great shot fellers!!! I am hoping to get out this weekend, looks like we may still have a little left over.

 

Best day of the swell by far. I took the day off. Got up early and headed down. It was looking good, but smaller then the past few days. Was slightly disappointed. Well i was wrong. Looks are deceiving. It was still 2-3 feet OH. And ALLOT more power than the previous days. Absolutely insane. Tide was just coming off low, offshores were light, clear sunny skies, and pumping swell.

My initial paddle out was bonkers. I don't want to give the spot away, but there's allot of rocks and cement and rebar and wood and just nasty stuff. So i walked east of all that to paddle out. Within seconds i was pulled in front of all that so i quickly got out and decided to use the "channel" just west of the rocks. I got sucked maybe 4 or 5 hundred yards down the beach. Caught one and walked back. I was already shot. Took a mini breather and just watched it trying to time things out. So much water moving. Iv never experienced that much water moving at home. Second paddle out was a dry hair paddle out. Timed it right. Paying attention and taking my time paid off.

The wave was incredible. The drop was big but totally makeable and fairly user friendly if you know what your doing. First section was fast, come up off the bottom and fade high on the face for either a quick cover up or just to drop back down with enough speed to get around it. Then it slowed. The cutback section. Which was amazing. Such a simple turn but i love them. And going into it with such speed and power, felt like a brand new maneuver to me. Then it would stand up and go on forever on the inside. Steep wall on most. Absolutely flying. Top turns or just cruise at high speed. Whatever. There were times i was just taken away by the wave, in complete aw. The paddle back to the peak was a long grueling one. Better to get out and walk back down the beach. You were easily getting 150-200 yard rides.

I felt a little under gunned on the 6'1, but not to bad. I'm sure all the paddling played into that. As the tide filled in it for sketchy walking back down the beach. Walking over the rocks with water washing up over them. Even in ankle/knee deep water, there was so much power it would easily rip your legs out from under you. I was shot. Drained. Said one more run. Go to paddle out and took a set on the head. Didn't make it outside quick enough and got sucked right into the rocks. Didn't know if it was better to quickly get out before i got pulled further into them or just keep paddling and hope i get sucked past them. I chose to get out quickly. Got slammed so hard into a rock the size of a monster truck tire and bounced off a piling stick out of the sand in the shore break. Don't know how i got out without any serious injury. Lucky as hell. Board is all good too it seems. Need to further inspect later. Got on dry sand and said I'm done. Laid down and just laughed at how sketchy it got for me there.

It's hard to say. That might of been the biggest iv ever seen it at home. Maybe? Maybe not. But overall, size, shape, ease (relatively speaking)...i dont think iv ever seen it so good. Normally at that size its closeouts or really difficult to surf. This was perfect. I'm so stoked. This swell delivered big time.

Hope everyone scored, and peajay, if your out there i hope you got yours brother. Couldn't help but think of the huge off the top i saw you do a few years back on a big swell. Watching the waves, that's all i saw replaying in my mind.

 

It was New York brotha

 

Cool pic. Do you have a sequence? Is that you surfing?

 

Magic tonight. Finally got to hump some girthy ones, it's been awhile.

 

Excellent write up! You're a better man than I. I hope you're feeling OK.

 

Yes that is me surfing - yes there are many sequences I got of the weekend I spent up north -

 

Right on man. It's a solid wave by EC standards...really any standards. I was wondering if you had a sequence (of subsequent shot) of that wave? Curious about your position and that next section. I'm super jealous since the wind has been hacking up the joint...looks like that thing could be a sick barrel up ahead!!!

 

Yeah it's amazing what a long period swell will do when the peaks hold up and don't wall across the entire beach.

We got a little of that goodness the next couple days with strongish offshores. Really fun chest to head today with some long snappy walls and a few toobs too.

But you guys long range forecast looks off the charts. Jump on it before the summer doldrums arrive...

 

this storm and the north winds weren't ideal for Delmarva, but there were windows of solid surf. Nothing like what NY and New England got for big clean conditions. Seems like the water temps have dropped a bit, or it was just cold as hell throughout this swell. It felt good to get out in some burly conditions. A few shots i took:

 

I guess you were east of the LB area. Glad you scored, man.

I was so shot from Saturday through Monday that I didn't have it in me to paddle out yesterday morning and stay awake at work the whole day afterwards. Mentally, I wanted it but, physically, I just couldn't do it.

This swell, IMO, was definitely in the top 3 of the past 5 years - the other two being Mars in 2013, basically exactly 5 years ago, and Hermine on LDW in 2016. Beautiful shapely lines, peaky, and very makeable.

I keep replaying my rides over and over again in my head from the weekend, just daydreaming. Hopefully we get some more juice before the summer lull.

 

Yeah i was east of LB. LB ain't to far if i decide to go but i rarely do. I used to surf there allot. But it's got bigger crowds and usually slightly smaller conditions. When i pulled up to my home break and saw big perfection i couldn't leave. Wanted to do a second sesh in LB but i was shot after the first (plus the prior days). Just didn't have it in me.

 

Got a nice welcome home gift today, some punchy jersey juice. This winter storm produced exactly what I said I love most about this place, BARRELS!!!

Solid chest to head lefts that were hollow and completely makeable with strong offshores holding up the face. The visions I got were perfect. Super stoked to shred with two of my bros for about 4 hours. Straight up white out conditions in the water with snowflakes the size of walnuts.

It was a mission to get south, but that’s where wind was best. Saw about 20 car accidents when I was enroute. It was all worth it in the end.

Now I’m sitting at home with no power, so I came here to share my stokes. Yewwwww.

 

Thanks man I really appreciate the compliment, it was super fun times up there for sure, the photographer that came along with us has been posting to her Instagram with all the barrels and waves all of us got. This is the barrel I managed to grab in the upcoming section.

 

Well done. Thanks for sharing the stoke.

 

Some more super long period goodness with stuff offshores yesterday, got out of the water with the swell still climbing. It's March and the water still hasn't got out of the mid 40's yet

 

Here in New England, the third week of March is usually the bottom of the curve, according to NOAA graphs. Then the slow climb up; may be similar where you are?

 

No Barry, it's kinda unusual to get these conditions this time of the year.

Usually the sandbars are slammed because of the constant barrage of 10-20' swells Jan-Mar. March to mid April is usually medium to large short period stuff with south winds which make surfing hit or miss.

So things have been super fun the last few days, although water temps are around 5 degrees colder than usual lol

 

Got the last of this long period groundswell today... a fitting ending to a great run of waves, right up until sunset. Time to let the boots dry out.