Never underestimate the value of propre sand reconne. I employed my reconne skills learned here at SI after our beaches had been denuded of sand due to relentless winter storms. After my normal spot checks came up with mushy gutless waves, I started checking spots that haven't worked well in years, and stumbled upon an outside bar that was reeling head high hollow rights off like an Indo reef. The bar was waist deep at low tide, and a fair paddle offshore. I caught right after right until my old back started barking. A handful of other guys out, all starry-eyed like 'is this really happening'? My best session this winter, I wish I wasn't 51.
Tuesday was so good... Got a couple of hours in the am. Chest to head high offshoure perfection... A few guys out but really spread out. nobody within 50 yards. As fun as it gets... Seemed fishy too... Spring is here
This morning I went for a flat water paddle on the LB not expecting much at all. I figured it's Friday, great weather, and this weekend looks like it's going to be onshore wind and rain so I wanted to get a little water time despite the dismal forecast. I paddled out and started down the beach, I paddled down to my favorite sand bar that has been good to me on small wave days when other spots are flat. It was low incoming tide and the buoy was showing a 2ft @ 15 sec wave so there was potential I thought as I saw some long lines coming in. I kept paddling until I was where I thought it might break if a set were to come in. I waited a little bit and within 15 minutes of being in the water it started to break. As the tide started filling in so did the frequency and size of the waves. By the time my session was over, an hour later, it had gotten pretty damn fun, knee - waist and clean rippable little walls, made perfectly for the HPLB. I was getting turns, cutbacks, noserides, etc., all on a day I thought I'd just get a paddle in. Happy Friday!!!
I've had that happen on more than a few occasions. Paddle out on the LB just to get wet and maybe catch a few, if lucky, but not really expecting much. But those little windows of opportunity do occur. Underscores the importance of knowing your break and not relying exclusively on online surf forecasts/reports.
Denuded for sure, for sure. There will be a lot of broken fins this summer!! hahahaha!!! Rocks protruding everywhere. Poor babies will have to wait for their boards to be repaired..... And yes, I hit that same break this past week. Were you the guy out there yelling"Hillary for 2020"?
Cleaned up yesterday. At the better spots, chest hi's came thru. I was in rough condition that afternoon from the day before, but i managed to get a handful of fun rights. bout hit the rocks several times at the Washout. Not overly crowded. Finally might be able to get a DP session in this week from the looks of it
"Drunken, menacing behavior on the slopes." No children or animals were harmed in the making of that debacle. Looks like some relatively decent surf headed this way on Thursday. I missed the last one. Not gonna miss this one.
It’s fun out there today! Waist - chest with the occasional bigger set up to head high early on with a mid outgoing tide. Wind is calm - light SW offshore breeze. The tide made it a little deep and soft but as tide began to drop it started to open up some. When the sets came they had speed and power though, really fun on the 6ft M-80. Clean rippable waves, get on it if you can!
Flat around here last few days. But water temps have soared a whole big 3 degrees F*! Ooooo, how exciting...we at 43F* now!!! Tomorrow...storm, howling winds, wind surf/chop. Thursday....remains to be seen, perhaps..perhaps....some surf. New England surfing....sucking from time immemorial!! Worse place to be a surfer (excepting Taxachusetts, aka Massholia).
Yeah our water just broke into the beloved 50's yesterday lol Similar to DP's post, got into some really carvy long period swell yesterday, running about chest to head with bright sunshine and all day offshores...the kind of stuff most surfer's dreams are made of. Even got a little sunburnt drinking PBR's post-sesh.
As fun as this morning was, this evening after work was even better. The tide was a little deep for 30-45 minutes so it was tricky being in the right spot at first but when the tide dropped a little it was breaking perfectly and consistently in the head high range. Wind was offshore and conditions were clean, the sets just kept coming. Once I found my rhythm I ended up catching a handful of meaty rights and lefts. I rode the fish, which was the right call, perfect for the conditions. That thing hauls ass!