who here has been surfing this week?

my fish didn't haul ass, last wave taught me that but it was a 7'2" so i wasn't gonna out run much. sizeable chest hi's that were deep and built size in an instant. that last wave was a head hi that got me pig doggin to the right only to be crushed. def nasty. had no luck going to the left tho my buddy flew 100 yrs on his first ride. long paddle outs, but fun surf for a DP session. yesterday evening i took a couple beatings on the short period swell, but had some decent ones then too. hopefully it keeps going for the next day or so

 

What a run of waves we've been having! This morning was every bit as fun as the last two. This time I rode the HPLB (yesterday was the Fish, day before was M-80). Swell was holding strong in the chest high range and was breaking through the high outgoing tide.

It was the most fun I've had on my LB in a while, the conditions were just perfect. Wind was nearly calm with a light offshore breeze keeping it glassy and holding the walls up nicely making it possible to carve up and down the face. Steep drops with a pitching lip are no issue on this boart, it has enough rocker to get down and dirty!

I love when the wave has enough power to ride the LB from the tail, enough to get it on rail, and when the water is so glassy you can feel every bit of every turn through the fin as it flexes through each slicing turn and cutback, like cutting through butter.

 

going tomorrow with the LB. i'm just a day behind ya DP. Glad to hear it's still going. def supposed to be real glassy tomorrow

 

Isn’t it fun knowing what conditions you might be getting by hearing what others are getting as the swell makes its way to your beach?

 

been scoping the forecast,wanted to get out today but wind isn't switching til like 9 or 10 pm.buuuuuuuut tomorrow theres going to be west winds all day.cant remember the last time I seen offshore wind all day.and it looks like the size will hold til I get off work.my plan is to score it early before work,which literally leaves me a 15 minute window to surf.if I leave my house at 530am id be there at 6 and I can surf til about 615 lol.i don't mind going in late to work I havnt takin off in a long time.if its really that good I might just say fuk it and not leave.the size drops slightly but I want to catch it at its biggest which is probably like 6' and by the time I get off work itll hopefully be around 4'.i checked the weather channel ,surf forecast should be a great day tomorrow,i just hope its not foggy or ima be pissed

 

Was hoping to be in a 3/2 by now but am glad for the waves (and the 4/3).

Where is Peajay? Hope da guy is getting shacked!

 

I took a vacation day! Where you gonna be?

 

lucky bastard lol,my early morning plans got cancelled since I have to pick up the boss on the way in.just going to have to wait til I get off work around 5,should still be good tho.il be in the sea bright area

 

Anyone on it tonight? I got stuck at home with an unruly little guy

 

thi hi, rare waist this morning. LB session. Had a few lefts, nothing really memorable. just getting wet was pretty good. would be lucky if it lingered through the week, but i'm a bit doubtful based on this morning's sess. yesterday evening was chopped out, had to find a spot that wasn't so. took out the LB then hoping i could paddle out n avoid the ducking, turtling. it worked, pretty good cutbacks and in n outs. def had more size despite the slop. i think those were the first DP sessions of the year that i can recall, so glad we're getting light early on nowadays

 

I missed out on today and I'm pissed. Other people's screw ups at work yesterday forced me to come in here today. I refuse to look at the cams. Next week looks flat. I will most definitely be taking this out on my idiot co-workers.

 

Dang that’s some BS, they must pay for their transgressions!

 

They're gonna pay alright.

 

6' @ 10sec out of the SE... took the day off and surfed my brains out for a couple of hours this morning. Took a few minutes and checked a few spots... found a wave that wasn't as big as one other spot, but was breaking soooo perfectly. Definitely the most ripable wave around. Long, clean, green rights... peeling for forever. Long paddles back to the peak, but so many good waves. Not super hollow, but hollow enough to pull into a few coverups. The only fly in the ointment was that I had to surf with other humans. But it was ok... we all got plenty of waves.

 

Was it still good when you left? Trying to get home asap... The FOMO is real!

 

Still lots of fun ones...

 

Got out today, but stay close to home, at The Wall. I am the only one out, waves are breaking everywhere along the entire Wall length, equally. Two idiots from Massholia paddle out right where I am, one next, one in front of me. Either fearful, gays, or real stupid.
It is why we call them massholes......and, btw, they were not kides, early 40's--they should know better.
Had a nice session before anyway.

 

Really hoping it holds on for a few more hours...

 

You gotta stop making it look fun when they are checking it from the beach.

 

Some nice chunks this morning. 6' thruster setup was working nice.

Was looking at the Squan cam...looks like some drainers rolling in and plenty of dudes out but not many waves ridden.

Overall a Pretty good swell last couple of days....buoy still showing potential.