My day was similar. I unloaded a ton of gravel for a parking area on side of house, then surfed hard....nice end to productive day too...I was spent. Slept like a baby last night.
Haven't seen the movie, but pretty sure every single person out there could be locked up if that's how things worked... Not gonna lie, I thought twice before posting that, imagining myself sitting in court while the prosecutor reads that post after some sort of freak accident where I lose my bort during a leashless session and it injures someone...
Even though I felt ghey for doing it, I wore a hood Sat AM. I remember wearing a 3/2 this time of year "back in the day" Waves were OK. My son's soccer game up in Mullica Hill wasn't until later in the day so at least I got to surf a Saturday morning for a change.
Surfed Saturday too, offshore and running about chest to shoulder. Sun was out and water temp is up so the hood came off and rocked the 3 mil boots. Getting crowded with kooks, but me and my bud had the jetty to ourselves after chasing everyone off the peak lol.
today was an unexpected gem of an afternoon. forecasts were sideshore wind at 10-15 and cloudy. instead it was dead calm wind and sunny. A nice 3-4 foot SE swell was pulsing with sets up to chest high, and it was ALL about the sets. Dribble for 5 minutes, then 3 waves that all had a nice long wall to work. The light onshore flow over the weekend raised the water temps to what felt like upper 50s to me. Didn't wear boots, they werent needed at all.
Ya. Warm, clear water. Wanted to spearfish but (1) blackfish are out of season for now and (2) there was waves! Nobody out. Just a breath of onshore wind made it so ripable. Chest to shoulder high easy takeoffs, dropping into long slopey walls that let you really open it up and run. Just took it apart on the fish. Freakin’ killer.
I was stoked about the forecast for Monday, even though it flip-flopped a few times. Took my nephews to WWE Backlash (LOL) at Pru Center on Sunday. I don't really watch it unless they're over and got it on, but we've been bringing them to every WWE event in North Jersey and when it comes to Wildwood for like over a decade now. So I slept in on accident and had to get my truck inspected, which was due back in February. I pay a guy to pass me because I don't think I'm passing this state's BS emissions testing and I don't feel like being extorted by the state for it, so I go to him. He's had the sticker for 3 months now waiting for me. I haven't gotten around to do it due to work, but I don't even drive the thing every day anyway. So, hopefully today I'll get to do something. Even if I sleep in again, I got the whole afternoon and early evening. May is off to a pretty good start surf wise here. Last May and June were both pretty damn good.
the last couple days have been worthwhile. rode til the arms got tired on Sunday, clean shoulder hi. yesterday was smooth til about 3 when the winds picked up. so good, decided to extend the wknd. so many sessions, used about 4 of the boards in the quiver. keeping waist hi all week, will be a good way to go out while i'm packing up bout to get off the beach
Yesterday afternoon was so fun here. Fun drops, long rides, enough onshore wind to make every wave unique with a bunch of different sections, but light enough that most waves were still lining up all the way to shore. So basically what LBCrew said. Had a couple that had to be 150+ yards. Longest rides I've gotten since going up to RI for that big swell the first weekend of march. Much warmer than Saturday too. Third or fourth no-hood session this spring, but the first one where I never really got cold at all. Still in a 4/3 with boots and gloves, but stoked for that to all change over the next few weeks (hopefully).
I almost went for a jog instead of a surf today but i'm glad I didn't. I took my LB today thinking it would be pretty small. My rule of thumb for onshore wind is I typically won't go out if it's over 10mph. I checked the wind and it was holding steady at 9mph so it just made the cut. I paddled out despite it not looking that great from the beach but once I got out there it was a good time. The waves were waist - chest, consistent, peaky, chunky, bumpy, but a smooth face every now and again. Most rides were a blast, steep drops followed by a swooping turn left or right and a top turn, walk to the nose to get more speed through the deep section and into the reform and back on the tail for some more action before fizzling out. It's been fun lately! I take it for granted a lot of times but 90+ % of my sessions are solo and have been able to wear trunks for a while. Gotta love FL!
What a (extended) weekend. Saturday, Sunday and Monday all very fun. Nice push, clean lines and almost 70 degree water. The crowd got a little thick but there was plenty of medicine for everyone. I'll tell ya... surfing in the am and then after work on a Monday makes it feel like I never even went to work. Feeling so good right now. I know I have said this many times, but I am so lucky to be able to surf.
I was thinking the same thing. Every good wave and I was down the beach at least 100 yards, thinking... wow, that was a really long wave.
As stated above, yesterday was super fun. Went into the day not expecting to surf because of the winds, but they went slack and it was kinda fun in the evening. Waist to stomach high, a bit inconsistent, however, pure glass for a couple hours. Just my buddy and I on it after work, before 4 kooks on wavestorms showed up. Didn’t bother me much though I caught so many good waves. Right before sunset there was this really picturesque pink sky illuminating the top of the glassy water I was tripping on it. I love surfing glass offs. Just gives off that good vibe.
Today was beautiful. Got out before work. Chest high, a few pushing shoulder high. Super glassy. Just perfect looking A-frames. Got a bunch of good ones. Then got this amazing left for the last one. Late drop, came right off the bottom into a pretty weak top turn. Oh well. Dropped back down, faded high as the wave hit a fat section, then flying back into it as it walled up again for another, stronger, top turn. So damn good. Fast waves, but just slow enough to allow for some good turns. Tomorrow's looking slightly smaller but similar. Pumped. Good little run of waves we got going
Got out for a few hours in of messy, glassy chest high waves. It beat the hell out of me. I'm tired this many hours later. Back in my 4/3 today, as air temperatures were pretty low again. Felt like March was back. Looks like another day of the same conditions tomorrow. I need some sleep!
clean sideshore this am. much better than yesterday's sunset session which was a good bit of chop and not enough bump to make this guy happy. only benefit was seeing my buddy break his short board on thi hi waves, it was very thoughtful. Had some decent lefts, but got one great right where i can trail both hands along the wall for about 30 yards. waist hi, lil drift to the west, could hold up til the wknd
Some playful waves showing up since Friday. Sunday was the biggest but Monday provided the best chance at some little barrels. The water color has been gorgeous all week especially when there's been a good mixture of sun and clouds. I'm just ready to ditch the wetsuit and this cooler weather isn't helping. Maybe in the next week or so? Spring colors Long lines no takers