who here has been surfing this week?

I need some of those lefts! And sick mini barrel shot.

 

I got to the beach before 1st light and watched it for a while since it was still deep coming off high tide. I figured within 30 minutes to an hour it would start breaking but I brought the Flashback Fish instead of the LB so I wasn't feeling to confident about it.

I waited and waited and watched the sun rise and waited a little more and then it finally started to break some and I figured I might as well paddle out and see what happens.

Similar to yesterday after I got out there it started to improve, but it was closer to high tide today so not quite as consistent. The first couple waves were duds. The 3rd one was a legit wave in the waist high range. I took off, got to my feet and then got a little too excited, I started to make my turn a bit too early in the drop and I slipped and ate it.

Next couple waves were duds. Then suddenly a nice size wave came through, this time I made sure to stay on my feet as I made my bottom turn and went down the line. It was enough to make me smile and walk away feeling good.

Beautiful morning, light onshore wind, semi-choppy conditions, but water felt great. I can see it getting better as the tide gets lower, too bad I have to work. There's been a ton of sea weed lately, I hate when it gets stuck on my leash and I have to pull it off, that shat is like an anchor!

 

The best surfer is the one having the most fun right? Well that may be true or not. But for me surfing good is fun! And man, i was on my A game today and having a blast. Similar to yesterday, super clean, punchy, wally, stomach to chest, legs and rights. Got out really early before work.

There's this peak that's really good. Alot of the spots got potential, but need to get groomed out after all that sand got rearranged from the winter storms. But this spot is great as is. Problem is, it gets crowded. Even at 515 in the morning. Not with kooks though. Really good surfers. Don't know if that's good or bad honestly. Is what it is. But man, maybe surrounding yourself with good surfers does help you improve.

So my first wave was a left. Dropped in and am rightin the pocket eyeing the lip. Didn't go for a whack as it was a fast wave and i wasn't feeling the timing. The turn would be late. Kinda just soul arched and flew down the line. Then it slowed a little, but was still walled up. Normally I'd go for a whack but for some reason i went into a cutback that would make blasters proud. It was my best taylor Knox impression. The spray definitely turned the sand to glass on that one. As i went through it i just had so much speed and power...skeeeesshhhhh. Don't know if my technique was just on point or it was just the punchier section than I'd normally throw a cutback at.... but man that was the meanest cutback i ever pulled. Lost it on the rebound but i didn't care.

One of my last wave was pretty similar but i went with the whack id normally throw at a section like that. I have a habit iv been trying to correct. I get my back foot on the pad, but I'm usually not way back on the kick of the pad. So i don't get that real good push off the tail. Well on this whack i consciously made sure i got on that kick. Most spray i ever threw.

Really fun session, lots of waves, fun waves, and some good vibes in the water. I have fun whether i surf good or bad, but today i felt like i was surfing above my normal ability and it felt really good. Had a blast. It was fun drawing lines that strayed from the lines I'd normally draw.

Looks like we still got more coming. Already surfed 4 out of the past 5 days and looks like at least 2 more tomorrow and Friday. I am stoked

 

to me that means no surface texture (i.e. glassy), but lumpy or disorganized mixed up swell lines.

 

Yeah that would perfectly describe my session yesterday lol

 

Gotcha. Generally speaking when it’s glassy here it’s pretty organized too, not always but usually, but I can see what you’re saying.

 

Started off a bit windy and choppy. Honestly, I use that the same way Mitchell said as well. I do use messy for glassy, even though it's not to be confused with choppy. Mostly just really nice and glassy waves yesterday. Little wind to be felt. Almost like Oahu, just not nearly as nice, warm or big. Mitchell summed it up for me, almost to a tee, but it did start out a little choppy, windy (not super windy), but that soon stopped.

Personally my favorite kind of conditions. It was like that again today. Had another few hours out at a couple different spots. Kind of small today, though. Probably would have been better served with a longbort. It's May, I'm out of work (aside from 10 days in July) until a week or so after Labor Day and there's waves! Not much to complain about here! May of last year was pretty suite here, too, as was June! Hoping it continues, as a lot of people (my buddy in Jacksonville) feel like they're getting nothing right now.

Only complaint is it's been kind of cool here, after being in the 80's and even low 90's last week.

 

Yeah I regret not packing the LB today too.

 

My best friend exclusively uses an LB and LB's only. I definitely prefer a smaller board whenever possible.

 

If I only could have one bort it would probably be my HPLB because it would get me through the small surf in the Summer months and other times throughout the year but it can handle big days too. Thankfully I don’t have to ride just one boart though, variety is the spice of life!

 

Short-boaarders do not have long-boarders as friends. That is like two galaxies colliding.

But, to stay true to the thread topic--it is flat here, even though sites are saying 3-4 feet based on bouys. Flat. Water is 47*F, air is 45*F.
I need to move south. Way south. Tierra del Fuego south........

 

bought a greg loehr board yesterday. maybe late 80s early 90s 6'9" x 22" x 2" fish; has the O-Fish-L fins that i never heard of before so that old. wasn't necessary buy, but my 7'2" hog molly is on its last stages and i'm about done patching it up. the loehr is the replacement there. test run this AM, still waist hi n clean but no drift this time. it's def bouyant, can catch rides pretty easily but the paddlling took some getting used to ( i ate a lot yesterday, so could've been the user). had a decent left that teetered out and a right that fell short too. bit mushy but had to get in the water, doing sunrises all week

 

Speaking of my LB, I took her out this morning for a spin. It was knee - waist and semi clean. Kinda slow and soft coming off high tide but I got some fun rides for sure. Easy entry, not much of a drop, just crumbly ramps that were very playful, although It took some nose riding through the deep section and rocking my ankles to keep the momentum going until the reform picked back up and then I was able to get back on the tail swing her around, walk up the boart get into a crouch position as I picked up speed going down the line. Most of my rides went all the way to the beach or into knee deep water kicking out right as it closed out.

 

Just got into work - hit it at 530 this morning. Sat a little inside and off tot he side of the crew on the jetty, and caught a ton of waist high sets that swung too wide for the crowd to be on it. Beautiful morning and sunrise combined with warm(er) water and peeling waves, and I'm stoked! Haven't had that much fun on my minisimmons in forever (although I didn't really ride it this winter). Great way to start the day!

 

DP before work this morning. long 3 foot lines coming in, good enough for a fast section and then a couple of good cutbacks. Nobody out where I was. Seemed odd to be surfing fun stomach high waves in the sun with nobody around. Fun solo sesh on the mini simmons.

 

Another fun day. Surfed that same peak that has been working really well, but getting pretty crowded. Only today i was the only one out. Dont know why but I'm not complaining.

Go out early before work again. Paddled out around 515. Slightly smaller than the past few days, waist to stomach high. Still super clean. Past two days the waves were walling up the whole way. Today they weren't, but there were still walled up sections. Caught a ton of fun ones. It was nice being alone. Could have any wave i wanted, resulted in a high wave count. Quality waves.

Crazy fun run we got going. It's not just somthing to surf, its been goooood. Pretty hyped for tomorrow. Hopefully we can go out with a bang

 

Caught the last two days... was really fun waist-chest on sets. Best type of waves to practice turns, airs, weird finishing moves without much consequence.

 

Crappy day for surfing. Did some maintenance on the house. Plugged up a minor and very small roof leak that started last August. Gave it a quick fix at the end of August of last year, due to not having a lot of time to properly repair. It held up fine, but I finally got around to doing it properly today! Glad that's out of the way!

I definitely prefer a shorter one, but a longer one is definitely a prerequisite, if I wanna surf a little bit more. I don't mind it if I have to use one. Better than flat.

 

Another fun day. Light offshores. Beautiful looking waves. Stomach to chest high. Tide was deep so things were on the softer side compared to the rest of the week. Cutback city. But it was still really fun. Still enough juice and push to ride a good wave board.

Was planning on taking tomorrow off and heading back out Sunday if things looked favorable. But now it's looking like another 2 days of surf. 6 out of the past 7 days. I'm in a surf coma. Quite shot. When it goes flat I'm going to get depressed. We are getting spoiled over here.

 

I went for a no lease flat water paddle this morning and ended up catching a dozen or so waves that came in. The buoy reading was like 1.6 @ 8 but the wind was offshore and it was super glassy. The tide was even high but was outgoing. This sandbar somehow produced knee - waist high groundswell lines. Pretty damn fun on the LB. I honestly was not expecting much but I should know by now that's how this spot is. A few of the waves had some punch to them and allowed me to carve them up a little. Picture perfect weather, love this time of year.