Surfers vs. Bodyboarders

Photo: ??

 

No it was just a fun close out to pull into.

 

The real question is, "would you go".

Not just the barrel either. Very hollow. Very shallow. And very, very cold.

#fuckingcharging

 

Photo: ??

 

This is just fucking insane.

 

Stand Up For Your Rights!! Cw

 

La Piedra knows what I be sayin'

Now a dayz 8 out of 10 surfers on the east coast who manage to make it out the back on days like this won't go

From the peak no wayz not neva

Life so sweet in a 5 mill now dayz TRENDz

 

I am turning 49 soon & haven't/don't have any problem with surfers in 40 years of riding in many places around the world. I still ride waves like this today. Be respectful in the water and charge when you get a chance. I have no problem getting waves especially at my home break above. 1st drop in possibly a mistake...2nd you are getting out of the lineup or away from me.

 

Yeah dude I feel ya.

But keeping it real, there's probably only 1 in 100 boggies who are capable of surfing that spot like that.

I don't think most surfers scoff at guys who charge that hard while they watch from the parking lot, just saying

 

Occasionally, but I have used tethers I have made for 30 years & only lost a few.

 

Photo: Danny Bostwick

Hard to tell but I am tucked in on a cold one in December of 2007. Not too many people out that day surfers or bodyboarders. Was my last wave of the day & last one in the water. The wave above is 1/2 the swell size from earlier in the day and pretty makeable if you waited on the sets. There were a lot of people watching on this swell because of the sneaker sets & was COLD!!

 

I love the little fella at 3:02