who here has been surfing this week?

I remember those. Don't miss the june gloom though.

 

weak ESE swell but better than nutin!

 

Had a pretty nice two hours tonight, right after a thunderstorm rolled through. I had it all timed perfectly because I only had about two hours to use by this point.

It was only two hours and I could have surfed another 2-2.5 hours into nightfall, but I had a prior engagement tonight that I needed to be home for a 7:00 PM.

It was a pretty suite session. Water still pretty cold. Stomach to chest high sets. A little bit choppy at times. Not too bad, better than most of the crap we've gotten this very, very crappy month swell wise.

 

Went out for my usual longboard paddle session, picking off little A-frames as I went along. Two hours of that and off I went for coffee.
Only drawback, because there was a SMALL wave forecasted, there were a lot of kooks in the water even earlier than usual. As I returned to my entry point to get out, a gorgeous 20 year old girl approached me, smiling and giggling at her first surfing attempt. She just kept on talking and asking me questions. Had I been 40 years younger, I would have scored in that department as well. Oh well, loyalty makes me leave that for somebody else.

 

o Barry. swell smaller this morning than yesterday which was expected. thi to waist, still a lil textured. didn't venture to Washout, didn't see much by the pier. landed 3rd East. Bigger early but def longboardable or even with a fish. cutting both ways, pretty decent rides when had. buddy joined up on the 2nd half, we shared a few. happy friday every1

 

wow fun waves early this morning prior to tide filling in... still looked good with a full tide too! Easy chest to head high maybe slightly bigger. really fun clean waves.. not a perfect south swell, had a lot of east, but pretty good for summer! everyone was spread apart too.

Happen to surf with a buddy who I havnt seen in a while... memorable times together and good conversation.

havnt surfed much in the past few weeks, so it was refreshing.

 

Reading all your posts is making me jealous. Haven't gotten out in a month due to flatness/work. Nothing on the radar either. SMH it's gonna be a long summer.

 

Wanna hug? I’m dying from this stretch of flatness!

 

Hell yeah. I saw the forecast said waist to chest.... but looking at the buoy i was thinking it would be bigger. And it was. Shoulder to HH for sure. Paddled out at 445, caught a few and was out by 545. The east in the swell was making a pretty good drift, constant paddling. Constant. Ended up cutting my foot and being as i had work, already got a ton of good ones, drifted down the beach, was tired from trying to fight it, and it was getting packed......i just called it. Went to work early. Im shot man. Work is tough today after that sesh.

 

I went a little further south to get away from the crowd.

 

such a good desperately needed session this morning in moco. Maybe a little left for the incoming tide tonight?

 

I made a strike mission to the OBX for the second time this month. A family friend had a free day and the forecast looked fun so we went down late Wednesday evening to be on it at first light. The winds and tide lined up nicely and we were greeted with perfectly groomed chest high barrels at daybreak. Surfed from 6:45 to 10:15 before the sideshore winds really picked up and blew it out. Getting waves is why we went but the whole Outer Banks experience is why I'm addicted to the place. If you put in a little time and effort you're guaranteed to surf by yourself in the most raw and beautiful environment on some of the most picturesque waves around. Even had we gotten skunked I still would of had the most peaceful day one could image.



How we were greeted



4th of July crowd



It had been blown out by this point but still beautiful

 

really fun this morning... Got in moco for a couple of hoours before work.
Chest high, light offshour hot weather. Great little summer swell...
Water was super clean and warm.

 

Just after first light to 10:30 I sarfed. So gooood.

Only had my simmons/fish for this trip but by god was it fun. Like the other guys said chest swell with some plus sets in the HH range. First time having the fishomons out in waves that weren’t tiny. I can say it got in early to place me under some cover ups and it flew on the lined up waves. Almost shoots too fast on the bigger stuff. Found myself having to do long drawn out cuts. I gotta practice slamming on the tail.

My girl is a trooper. Shot me all morning. Got an array of footy to sort through later. Looking forward to the log waves the next two days. I’ll be taking out the Hobie.

 

Same here but little smaller in SNJ. Bout waist to chest solid from dawn till about 9. Warm water. Saw a couple of what I think were small brown sharks.
Went back around noon for some mid-tide goodness on the fish. I had it to myself for DP and only two other guys out killing it on longboards at noon. However, the mayhem in town and on the roads was insane already. I had to drive back to PA since I have to work tomorrow and by the time I got here I was ready to kill. Some rips and a bourbon and I'm good again. VERY good day.

 

so tired at the end waiting for "that last good wave" was embarrassed leaving the beach..

 

Finally getting back in the water after a few months with too much going on with work and family. Prior to this week I hadn't surfed since I visited my parents back in April. Today was perfect. For some reason everyone else (almost) stayed home. Water was warm and waves were a solid 3 feet with loooooong lefts. Felt so good to get back in the water.

 

Mother in law visiting so I skipped the dawn session and had breakfast with the family, all the while praying I'd find something breaking at full tide. After some looking I came upon a pretty well known street which was completely empty. Climbed the steps expecting the obvious but instead saw a chest plus set roll in unmolested. I surfed alone for an hour and a half before two guys showed up, but by that time I was spent and happily exited.

 

One sequence from today on my barnacle...

 

Nice shots!