who here has been surfing this week?

well you got my respect no matter what you're a stand up dude !

 

Like Valhalla wrote, last Saturday was plenty of ocean fun with him and with my crew! We were glad to see him and welcomme him back.

After a week of flat, and also a dire forecast that kept all except the locals away who always send a scout ahead...we were greeted by glassy to clean knee to thigh with occasional waist highs to delight everyone.

Having taken to calling the wheelchair R2D2 due to a close familial resemblance, the dudes helped pull it and carry the gear...surfers have a lot of heart.

Somehow my timing was off, so it was hard to catch these easy waves, but no matter, it was a privilege to try. I got a couple of fun knee board style ...it’s exciting to feel the board lift accelerate. Inside I shout “Yes! Here we go!”

The following day , Sunday, saw identical conditions, just a bit smaller. ...There was a skirmish in the lineup adding to the fun of the whole scene.... And, one local was having a ton of fun riding waves backwards, sitting and spinning down the wave,waving like in a parade. It was really hilarious! The turquoise clean water made the whole thing memorable and surreal. How was it possible to be part of such beauty!

So, on that sweet day I scored 5 fun rickety stand up rides! (The dudes are so encouraging, they applaud anything I stand up on! You get a ton of credit for paddling out.) Victory! Really SUPERFUN morning. And it was so great to see the local outstanding guys laughing and smiling, sometimes shouting out, “These are SUPERFUN!”—- I love that despite being great surfers, they are not wave snobs...they still have fun with what they got.

 

this guy has. a true douche canoe warrior. get the F out of his way (the F doesn't stand for Facebook ya kooks)

 

Really? Unless somebody let their log go and decapitated a small kid on the inside what could anybody possibly be fighting about in 1-2 foot waves? If you ain't smiling while out sufing you are definitely doing something wrong.

Are you talking about the guy with the dark brown woodgrain RonJon boarte? Named Mike I think (can't recall)? If so, he's actually from down my way in Weston. Loves doing that backwards surfing thing. He was there Saturday.

Glad you got back out againe on Sunday, Betty. I might make the drive up againe this Saturday. I've got a new after hours pass now so I can go in earlier this time. We'll see what happens.

 

BackwardsMike was there?! Wow! Haven’t seen that guy in two years— he is a hoot and always enjoying it!

 

Perhaps a "douche canoe", but he is banging that Asian bimbo and you are not. lol

 

So, it's flat here, so I went for my longboard paddle, finished it and went home. Nobody at the beach. That was at 5:30AM. Then at 9:30, I get on my bike and cruise to the beach. They are back!! They are fighting for parking spaces,. They are fighting for room on the sand. They are fighting in lines at ice cream joints, coffee joints, etc. They are fighting with who is going to carry the heavy overloaded cooler to the beach. Never mind the chairs, umbrella, and radio......
It's a zoo out there, a human zoo. Morons, idiots, and imbeciles. And they are all trying to carry 2 surfboards also on a flat day. To those that will listen to them tomorrow at work, it was Waimea Bay here today.
And later the carnage returning inland will soon commence.......

 

Did the same here, same scene here too lol

 

Caught a few taday. Your breathen yer surfin all goode!

 

twas a goode day! rain held off on the coast at least, eased up beach traffic bigly throughout the day. surfed da Washout in the late morning with a bud on a block where there were only 5 of us tops, no problems with any wave grabs. thi to waist, semi chop. brought out both my 7'2 Angulo fisch and 6'9 Loehr out there. bout called it a day, found out anutha bud was at the end of Washout by the showers. grabbed a chili dog from Berts n a couple 'ritas which made me absolute lethargic. took his LB for a spin, chop n drift got a bit worse as did my riding. couple sessions there, caught the fly over n headed back to grill out. that 2nd session got me feeling a lil burn, def witnessed my buddy get real burned on his pasty self. all in all a goode day, waking up going to work was a struggle - so ya know it was a long day

 

what a morning. tropical look and feel to the water. Buoys saying 80, and water felt same. Had a great first session on a new board i built last month....5'7" stringerless EPS/Epoxy squash tail. It was a satisfying board build for me, because i did some new things and it worked out. Mainly...built the board from start to finish in a week. Everything. for me that is a departure. Used AKU to shape and have the blank cut, stringerless EPS and ran carbon fiber tape up the spine of the board, used a new kind of epoxy resin, painted the entire board as a "sealer". No issues and the board pretty much rode like I hoped it would. A few mid - morning pics i took after sesh. Not how Delmarva water usually looks:

 

Picture of the board. 5'7" x 21" x 2 3/8

 

Love it!

 

thanks man. Its a great feeling paddle out for the first time on a board you just shaped last month, stroke into a wave and have the board just feel right. Its not always that way!

 

Right on, that’s gotta be an awesome feeling.

 

Dope pix and board. That thing looks fun. Our water up here has been extra clear the last several days too. I’ll take it.

 

How much do you weigh? Curious on dims...175ish?

 

155. Definately bigger than i need.

 

Question: Were you sober when you painted in that black line?? lol

 

I went for another shitty paddle on the LB, waves topping out at a solid knee high every now and then. I got two weak lame rides that didn’t nearly scratch the itch. Water was nice, so there’s that.