who here has been surfing this week?

Way more size and juice than what I was expecting today. Felt more like early September than mid July at the Rock.
Water wonderfully warm as well.

 

Your on western LI, no? Thought about heading your way as i had to work in long beach today but decided to stay local. Glad to hear you got it good! Funny how i went from thinking it was smaller than i was expecting, too actually being bigger than expected. I had a brain fart this morning

 

Have been getting pumped for three days for some swell... took a dive in the concrete floor today at work, broke the fall with right hand, and now have a golf ball on the inside wrist. Tripped over shyt that’s been left around cause we’re flat out - made me even more pissed. Soooo, I’m modifying a roller blading wrist guard from my sons crap and I’m surfing dammit!

 

got some 2-5' at my local reef yesterday, semi-inconsistent but enough push to get the 5'8" RNF moving on some walls. digging the twin/trailer setup

 

That’s sucks, had a similar issue once. I used one of those medical braces you buy at Walgreens / CVS that has the metal plate to prevent bending the wrist too much. I wore it to surf for like a month or so till so healed. Careful popping up too hard with that hand, might dent your boart lol

 

Fun logging it today in some longer period, belly high waves. Warm water... beautiful day.

 

This is the one I used, there are others too. But this one did the job just fine.

 

I used skateboard wrist protectors. Worked great, and they were just collecting dust since I hung up my board a couple of years ago. I still keep them for when surfer elbow strikes again.

 

Congratulations Kahuna! Raising a child is way better than surfing! You just aren’t prepared for the depth of love you feel. It will blindside you. Always choose your fatherhood over surfing and you won’t regret it. Trust me on that.

Hey Peajay, always love hearing about your surfing!

 

Im surfing a break just north of the sebastian inlet and not spanish house, but the water has been so clear you almost can't see the edge of it. You can see to the bottom while going down the line and it reminds me of surfing over a reef. Today was no exception with chest to head high waves. My god , the last 4 days have been magic.

 

Yeah, live in western nassau co. and work in rockaway.
Been surfing the rock exclusively for a few years. Don’t even bother going to Long Beach anymore, let alone jones, which is only 20min south of me on the meadow brook pkwy.
I just kinda feel at home on the rock.

 

we got skunked until sunset and then it turned into 20 of these before total dark - wrist brace worked great but I fell into a bad habit I thought long fixed.. dragging my back leg on pop up in turn hitting the deck with that knee. Wasn’t terrible but man I couldnt quit doing it! Still caught a shytload of short lefts and decent rights that ended bailing on the sand lol.
Water was awesome too.

 

Bummer to hear about all the injuries...

And congrats on being a new dad Kahuna Kia! Exciting times! And yes, you'll miss some swells but it's worth it! Just expect a change in your surfing habits and you'll be all good.

Some fun waves this morning in moco. Didn't expect it to be over waist high, but it was HH and pretty much perfect for a summer morning! Long peeling rights at just the right speed.Surfed my normal spot, couple of the same friendly guys out, trading waves and having a proper lineup rotation made it tons of fun! Trading waves all morning... then it got deep and I went to work

 

"Surfer elbow". So there actually is a name for it. I got it a couple weeks ago....right arm. Was lifting weights in the gym and really felt it.

 

Helps fuel the stoke whenever the mojo gets low.

 

Really fun morning. Iv noticed this trend, and i don't get it. But after a solid day of swell, the next morning no one heads out. Maybe it was just because i paddled out super early before sunrise as i had to be arty work early again today. Was late but im leaving early. Whatever. Anyway....no one out. Waist to stomach high. The longer period stuck around and you could definitely feel it. Real punchy. Light offshore glass. Lefts were more racey than the rights, but more makeable ones more frequently. The rights were less mellow and more walled up than yesterday, but still plenty makeable. So overall, despite size, I'd say it was better than yesterday. Just a real rippable wave. Cutbacks, snaps, speed runs, floaters (i suck at them). You could use your whole arsenal on these waves.

My favorite wave of the morning was this right. Took off a bit deep, wasn't a true barrel but sort of backdoored the section mid to upper face and stuck my head in as the section pitched, dropped down and got a few pumps in, roundhouse then blam on the end section. I lost my shit after that one. Screaming and howling to myself. Might of been the best wave i had since the riley swell.

Because of the smaller size i almost brought the mini. But this is why i love my fiancee. Last night im standing in my surfboard room trying to decide (usually bring 2 boards, but not on work days) and she walks in. So i asked what i should ride not expecting a serious question. She looks at me real stern and goes "what kind of waves are we talking here? ". So i quickly explained what i was expecting. "Glassy?" She asks. Should be. Ride your rip stick (5'8). For someone whos never surfed, she sure knows how to call it.

Have a good one everybody, hope yall get wet

 

forecast was wrong this morning. every tool that i used predicted clean conditions, not the case. was out yesterday evening in choppy chest hi waves, lotta surfers out at Washout with a decent north drift. took out the 6'4 perfection, had a variation of lefts n rights but nothing stood out. was worth the drive, and the drift got me out of the chaos. big ups to the gray tacoma with the hitch back to my starting spot - as said, good karma to you sir. didn't even take a look this morning at cam or before i grabbed the board out of the car, went out to the old home break but it was mediocre. paddled around for a bit, took a slop ride in and hurried over to washout. separated myself from most of the crowd, mostly surfin along with a spongebob. slight notch smaller than yesterday, but stronger to push ya to shore. all is well. rain could clean things up this afternoon

 

It is more commonly known as tennis elbow or lateral epicondylitis. But also the term surfers elbow has been used.

These simple exercises are helpful. A couple instantly stop the pain, find the one that works for you

http://www.surfing-waves.com/surf-fitness/surfers-elbow-stretch.htm

 

What i have noticed is that for no real rhyme or reason, spots that were packed 10 years ago are no longer crowded and other spots that were practically empty are now stoopid.

I was surfing a spot one morning this week, not super early (like 7:30 in glassy sunny waist to stomach high conditions). Just me and another guy who have both been regularly surfing that area for 25 years. the sandbars were basically the same as they've ever been.

two of us out on a one block section of beach, and about 1-2 surfers per block as far as you could see. 10 years ago on a glassy July morning with fun waves there would have been 5-10 surfers per block for 5 blocks in both directions. Other spots have become the trendy places to go, driven by just a few key factors.

 

As mr mar said so much fun this morning. Chest to head and 0 wind. It was a treat, because I was not expecting it.

Lined up lefts and rights. Higher tide but still very walled up. Rode my simmons and got some very very long rides, tight carves, a few drawn out cutbacks and just flew down the line. Surfed all over rays, they’ve been trying to snake me but I don’t play that. Big boys like 3-4ft.

Best of all today was that I basically surfed alone, until the end of my session. Even then, the guys were all chill, hootin and hollerin. Good day to be a surfer and alive. Have fun boys and girls.