who here has been surfing this week?

I had a friend come over from the Gulf and joined me for a DP session at the same spot I've been hitting all week. Swell came down some but there were still some waist high waves rolling in every now and then, a few maybe a tad bigger but they were few and far between. I got some really fun rides on the Flashback Fish, my friend rode his LB and ended up getting wave of the morning, probably chest high and it peeled to the right for about 75 yards.

I was stoked to seem him get such a good wave because he drove 3hrs to get here, stayed over night, and when we got to the beach it wasn't looking nearly as good as anticipated. But I said, let's just paddle out and see what happens, sometimes the ocean just needs you to get in first before she'll send the waves. Sure enough, that's exactly what happened. Man, after going all of June with minimal surf to complete flatness, this past week has been a treat. The long wait for a decent swell was painful, but worth it in the end.

 

Two sessions today... lunch break and after work. Fun, but I'm sure it was better south.

 

Just had a quick after work session me self. Winds laid off and it was bout waist high mid tide. No one else out. Perfect waves for the fish. Felt good especially knowing I can't surf again until Wednesday

 

lumpy, onshorey, cloudy 2-5' yesterday, very few takers but got 4 surprisingly good rides on a quad 6'0" before calling it a day. Last ride was the tits and proned in to end on a high note...

 

Forced the issue of still crappy swell and stiff cross on wind to try and scrap out some rides - hoping for a nice finish like last night, and it was a complete shyt show mess and total let down and to top it all off this dragging rear leg thing has turned into full fledged knee pop up nightmare! I haven’t done that shit in years... funny how much your routine getting messed with can throw your whole psyche off and then your brain goes to shit right after. I really need a friggin normal, non jacked up set of waves to get this mojo gone... it’s baaadd

 

You should do 10-20 practice pop ups on land each day until you get it right. Get it so it’s fast and explosive, no more lazy leg pop ups. Sounds stupid but I bet it helps.

 

Doesn't sound stupid at all. Just getting that "muscle memory" back... that's all.

 

Fun smaller session this a.m before high tide . nothing special but special to me . 8 days of waves. the water is still really clear for this local

 

Your 1000% correct. I actually built myself a pop up/balance trainer a few years ago and literally did 100 “waves” workouts every few days, complete with turns and foot work, because it’s so inconsistent with quality waves to get practice around here. Took a lot of work because my hips were toast... but once I got these badass mini sports hips I got all the shit to line up. This stuff now is just in my head and dealing with total crap waves, not taking my time and I’m a pretty big dummy sometimes too... so back to your point - get back and do basics - Just tough to go back to beginnings when I got so far ahead.

 

Hard to believe that you can get anything up with 2 titanium hips lol

 

What a fun session this morning! I went a little North of where I have been surfing all week to my trusty small wave spot, it picks up the ESE swell better than some other spots because it’s were the beach starts to face more E / ESE rather than ENE like much of the coastline in FL. Plus this spot works through high tide more often than not.

I knew it would be breaking in shallow water so I took my wife’s foamie out again to preserve my LB from the shorepound abuse. That and it gets crowded there.

The soft boart is 7ft and catches waves so easily, even the hard to get ones that most people miss.

I rode the shit out of this thing for 3hrs and caught what felt like a hundred waves. The conditions were knee - waist, and I even recall a few pushing chest high when it would wall up and nearly close out. These were glassy long lines that would just thump! The rides were fast and I was even able to get some turns, cutbacks, off the lip, you name it.

I was stoked so much that I would catch a wave turn around see another, sprint paddle back out and spin and catch another, and another, and another....

I was laughing and giggling after a while because it was so ridiculously fun for small waves. It had a lot to do with the foamie, that thing is way more fun than it looks.

But that fun came to a sudden end when after 3hrs, I was contemplating “one last ride” before I go home.

I had just caught a ride in to shore, I turn around and see a chest high wall about to close out in front of me so I duck dived it and the fucken boart snapped in half! Hahahahaha

I had to break it to my wife what had happened. She wasn’t too pleased since I got that boart for her but she barely used it so she wasn’t too pissed about it.

Ahhhh, all that fun came at a cost. Literally.

 

Sometimes we learn so many new things that we forget them along the way by being focused on learning more new and exiting things.

 

That's like forgetting how to do missionary position whilst trying how to learn reverse cowgirl.

 

Lmao stranger things have happened I’m sure.

 

Damn, I just violated SI commandment number 1. Thou shall not troll Peajay's thread.

 

What is this missionary position you speak of

 

Old Native American chief Humpalot didn't understand why Christian missionaries banged with the women laying on her back. Standard Native American position was doggie stylee. Humpalot was curious about the new position. He plowed his wife, the Indian princess Likesthecocque, that night using the white mans technique. He was the one who gave that position its name. Reverse cultural appropriation

 

That’s me in a nutshell lol ok... plus like I said, a big dummy at times too

 

I got to surf today because of my awesome crew making it happen! The downside was all the seaweed. The upside was the waves were knee to thigh high plus, about 8” interval.

After 4 ridiculous rookie fails, I got a nice left. What’s more, when I popped up, I popped to a deep knee bend, which I cannot do on land. Whoa! That was SUPERFUN and really made the day.

Man I sure miss those carefree days just a year or so ago of paddling out and grabbing 20 rides, managing chest high thrillers. Lasting several hours. Running down the beach with the board.

Still hoping though....

 

Betty, I don’t know you but you just made me misty eyed and fall in love - you rock.