Duuude... seems like your town is really hit or miss... Have you considered relocating to a family town with perfect waves all the time? Have you ever considered Belmar???
This morning... oh man this morning! Amazing! Not perfect but much more betterer then expected and better then it looked from land. Chest to head hi- light wind, not entirely glassy, but some nice power for the size! Trading waves with a few buddy's, board shorts... warm water... can't beat that! Also, ran into the man Kanman for the first time after crossing paths many times- thanks for saying something brother!
If it’s the same Belmar I found that video on, I can’t surf that anyway lol... unless it’s tow in and 15’ hollow. Any less is a waste of my immense talent pool and bench press minimum entry requirements
But I will say, surfing in January this year with water temp at 37deg and air temp in the teens, I really appreciated those labradors! And the icicle boogies too
Scored in front of the crib after work. Chest to head on set. Glassy and warm! I had a peak to myself took the 8’0 out and had more fun than anyone in the water, guaranteed. I was only out for 75 minutes, but I swear I caught 50 set waves. Roll into it. Wiggle around the first section. Stomp on the tail to stall it. Run up to the nose and cheat five all the way through to the inside. Pop out the back. Do it again. Ahhhh. Stokedd
This morning was waist - chest and semi-clean before sunrise, once the sun came up the S / SSW wind layed down some and it cleaned up a bit more. At first it was looking peaky and sectioned but then it got more organized as the session went on. Unfortunately it was deep and slow with the incoming high tide so it was challenging getting one with enough lift for takeoff but occasionally one would break through the tide and gave a fun little ride on the Flashback Fish. Not as fun as yesterday, but still worth paddling out for.
slop chop yesterday evening. cleaned up for about 5 minutes after it rained, when i checked, buddy called me while looking at cam, said we gotta go. took out the 6'9 loehr fish n he took out his 6'4 at the north washout - no crowd. lotta short rides but did manage to find a couple i had to stomp down on to get out of a section which proved to be the most fun on. almost hit an older dude on one ride, didn't see him after i caught the wave on a right, pig doggin with both hands on board to ride out - must've been close fin to his head. he said he was good, but i remembered i almost nailed that guy like a month ago. we're almost best friendz now haha
Got a fun session in this morning. Lined up and bowling over the sand bar on some waves. Got a steep backside set where I dropped in, pump, hit the lip and then raced the section until it got hollow, pulled in and got rag dolled. So stoked on that one. Traded a few waves with Mr. Belmar. Saw him snag some fun ones. The sunrise this morning was the best part. Looked like something out of the twilight zone.
Yes! Super fun waves and was stoked to surf with Kanman! Once again waves were a bit better then expected in the chest high range, lining up fairly well... Just a few other guys out, all friendly- trading waves, beautiful sunrise- great way to start the day!