Seems like there might be a tiny long period swell in New England leading into the weekend. What potential could it hold? Only seen a period that long during some hurricane swells. A foot is pretty small, but maybe on the right rock reef it could jack up and provide some fun surf.
I know that when the period is over 10 seconds and the wind is offshore and light, a 1’ wave turns into chest high/ head high every 10-15 seconds at the beach... I saw that too and am gonna keep a close eye on that.
Small southern hemi swells sneak in from time to time. They tend to be inconsistent. You can validate the forecast with what shows on the buoys.
It will usually double in wave height with long period ... .... so your looking at a solid 2ft swell! Maybe 2.5 faces
Dude that’s a HUGE period wave! Massive amounts of energy. How tall did it get? What kind of break? That’s a nasty ass wall of water on a shallow reef type break
Beach break. Very low, incoming high. Incoming swell. It was my boarts maiden voyage too. 450 well spent.
The Buoys are showing this long period swell right now along the Mid Atlantic and Northeast. Here, you can see buoy 44017, has swell height of 1.3 ft at 16 seconds.
And just a side note for people who might not be familiar with this, but when you see the buoy say 3.6ft @ 16 seconds, its a good idea to look at both the significant wave height, and the swell height. Here's a good example: Buoy 44056 shows 2.6ft @ 15 seconds, which is the significant wave height, but the primary swell height is only 1.0ft @ 15 seconds. If you click on the box there, it will take you to the NDBC page, and you can also see the wind wave height component, which is 2.3ft @ 7 seconds. If the primary swell height was 2.6ft @ 15, it would be a decent size swell, probably 3-4+ft range, but this is not the case, most of the energy is coming from the 7 second wind swell, probably producing around 2ft waves.
Saw some of this odd swell tonight in the northeast - offshore winds were light and it LOOKED flat but then you’d see shadow lines that took 15-20 seconds to build and bam! Sucker sets of three waves chest high and dark colored and peeling forever. Took 20 minutes in between of complete flatness,but it was worth those waits
Man, good stuff. But, don’t teach these guys too much...every little sneaker swell will have Tom, dick, and shred on it!
It’s sunny and higher tide and I’m gonna grab some more of that swell .... it’s hot as hell and that 65deg water will feel dam good too!
They got A framed way out so you got a face thigh high/waist high for 75 yards ... just had to get a good bit of speed to get going along it. But man those righties went and went and were just easy fun. Almost 3hrs of rides every 5-10minutes with some nice chest high thumper sets mixed in for some fun drops and rails. The last two days have been small but soooomuch fun. Needed it!
