who here has been surfing this week?

I ain't been there in 4.5 years, man! I REALLY need to go back! We went to Rincon this past January, which was pretty fun! That was the first time for me! Really itching for a trip to Oahu.

My friend with the alcohol problem has been surfing a bit, which we're happy that he's doing a bit of. So he puts the bottle down sometimes over these last two+ weeks. We want him to get rid of it permanently. Luckily the really good surfing days (which we've had two of in the past week and a decent one today) are keeping him in the water longer.

 

Gotta fill the void.... with something you love, and can't do drunk.

 

Yesterday I was back at my normal spot. Low to mid tide AM. Clear, cool water, bout thigh to waist high, no winds. Perfect Summer day. Rode the 7 Egg and had blast. Caught a gajillion waves.
One thing of note that didn't really bother me as I had my space but I've never seen so many people at my spot on so many different types of craft as I did yesterday, including a couple of local guys from OC and the Brig who came to my spot "to escape the crowds" at their local as they put it. There were LBs, SUPS, Kayakers, Grovelers, and a couple of fat old ladies on floats with beers. Felt like I was on Topsail Island. The best part were the fat guys from Philly surf fishing. Right where everyone was in the water. All you're going to catch there at this time of year are sand sharks and skates. Maybe a Kingfish or Croaker. Like I said it didn't bother me one bit, I just found it all amusing. It will bother me if this trend continues past Labor Day.

 

Surfed a longboard for 4 hours yesterday. It was small but there were some long rides to be had and the end section would stand up into the shorebreak. Given the really warm water it was pretty fun. Coming off of a shoulder injury and planning to do as much paddling as I can over the next couple of weeks to build back some strength for fall.

 

Hey Mr. Bigs, you now have exactly 420 posts.

Personally, I would stop right there and create a new username

 

got on it Saturday pushing to hi tide off 13th. surfed mostly 12th since crowds start popping up on 13th. Took the LB n an Allison funshape. switched around a couple times, had a good time with a couple buds. got burnt n jelly stung, but was well worth it. flat spell till perhaps this wknd

 

Also remembered that i can unfollow around here. great feature for those who forgot like me

 

Woohooooooo!! Do I get the shopping spree!!!!


Man do I need a life.



Haha. I was beginning to twitch from lack of likes - thought I needed to break out the big guns and go full surftard

 

A little bit of longbortable mush this afternoon.

It was really nothing, but it was something.

 

It wasn’t looking too rideable at first light but I could tell there was swell in the water. It was just a bit too deep coming off high tide. I watched the sun rise and then like that waves started breaking. I grabbed the LB and paddled out to catch a dozen or so waist - chest peaky waves from the mid bar through to the inside where I would kick out and paddle back out for another. Pretty damn fun for what it was.

 

Most abysmal week for waves this whole summer. I can only hope we get something by next week. I’m yearning for barrels. Even if it’s only death pits...

 

It's basically flat today so I went for a run instead. The rest of the week looks flat. My guess is a storm will pop up in the next week or so.

 

Sadly, we've had A LOT of abysmal weeks for waves this summer, so I'm not sure if this is the worst. We had a few good days 3-4 days ago, but the last couple have been nothing. I've been inside the house more often than not. It's like surfing is the only thing I have not lost interest in right now and there's nothing to surf, so that means a lot of boring downtime. Might have to go for a ride on my bike tonight or something.

 

Book your flight then go ride your bike. I guarantee you will be in a much better frame of mind in 3 weeks. Guaranteed!

 

I hear ya brother. I had to hit the skatepark tonight and shred some transition. Only thing I can do to remain sane. The yearning is real.

 

Been catching a lot of waves this summer... but yea, this week - not to much. Plus I have been lazy and not getting down to the beach early before work. It's kinda a bummer but maybe the next few days.

Been getting down to the beach most evenings with my son- so that's been fun and refreshing- praying in the sand and running in the water at low tide. Good memories

Maybe some hurricanes will start up soon- remember last mid August we had a great swell from gert- then basically all of September!

Better start training so you'll be able to paddle out at the Belmar

 

He books his flight and he’ll be in a better frame of mind in 30 minutes!
Just
Do it. We miss so much of life by hesitating and pack away so many regrets that never go away - don’t let this be one of them.

 

Praying in the sand with your son?

Bruh’ you just upped your sand cred big time in my mind... and that boy will love you forever for it too.

 

fookin doit

 

God I hope so! Got back from PR and it goes flat - go figure. I was checking the surf report every day down there (was there the entire month of july), and it looked like obx/Vb had waves almost every day I was gone. I stopped reading this thread out of sheer frustration.

I'm at the point where I am willing to drive 4+ hours one way just for chest high waves.