who here has been surfing this week?

thursday was unreal. very un-Folly like. a couple feet overhead, def helped they closed off the island to residents only. went cruising to 4thE early with a buddy, didn't get much luck north of the pier but did so closer to the pier and a lil south. clean with slabs pushing. after an hour sess there, went to washout as hi tide was around the corner. death barrels out there, was breakin at waist hi. had a few there, some i thought were board breakers for sure. then cruised to 10th st, to find a bunch a fun ones - mainly lefts. we left n came back a couple hours, but only managed to squeeze 2 hrs in at the time which dropped to waist ot chest. it's rare to see the waves line up like that around here, i was grinnin ear to ear. plus, no damage sustained here for Flo so all is well

 

Very well said. She's even better in person. An influence and inspiration for me.

 

Went up to Singer Island on Friday as the Florence swell just could not find its way to us as forecast except for a few small traces. Some thoughts from the day:

If you have a plan, stick to it. Don't wait around for your buddy if he won't go along as previously agreed. This caused me to arrive as high tide was filling in. Woulda been much mo betta had I gone earlier as planned.

I am way out of shape from lack of surfing this summer. Surfing is my primary form of exercise so if I don't surf much my condition goes to schott. I really need to do something aboot this.

Saw some guy wearing a full wetsuite. It was sunny with 90* air and the water was aboot 85*. WTF? Guy musta been roasting.

I really don't like crowds much. My wave count goes to schott. I would have rather surfed smaller waves at my home break with nobody else around. This swell didn't make it down here but we'll have our day. Summer is on the way out.

 

Our forecast: Flat with heaps of dead fish decaying everywhere due to red tide. This sucks. I knew yesterday was going to be good but couldn't get over there.Today looks pretty good too over there DP

 

A.M. sesh for about an hour. Smallish but fun LB rides before Monday bloody Monday. Get home to send daughter off to school and she’s proudly showing me her full shiner and fin cut on her perfect little right cheek - full on badge of savage for her lol...
All in all a blessed morning start

 

Hit the small wave reef down the hill at 8am yesterday, expecting waist high so brought the full figured stinger fish without trailer. Turned out to be superfun waist to chest left walls that would bowl up at the spot and then run down the reef to the shallows. good natured crowd on it sharing waves...

 

That's what I've been riding, too. Glassed on wood keels, fibreglass leashe loope, old school on the outside, new school on the inside!

 

Was looking forward to getting out there today on my day off, where the conditions actually looked pretty suite, but it's been raining and thundering all afternoon. I went back to sleep and I just got up 2-3 minutes ago, literally. Hoping to get wet for a little while before dark.

 

Glassy long period swell yesterday and again this morning. Florence has been inland for days, so its not coming from her....mystery why the buoy has been reading 3' @ 13 seconds, but the long lines this morning were real.

 

First "post-Flo" sesh/s this morning and noontime. Waist high, a bit disorganized with a northward drift. Lots of paddling to stay on station. Water olive green, but it was nice to take advantage of its 80 degree temp.

 

Was able to get out for about an hour tonight, mostly in the dark. It was fun, but the water was a bit nasty due to all the rain. Water is still fairly warm.

 

We were seeing a lot of E and SE fetch coming off the tail of Flo until yesterday. Unfortunately onshore conditions didn’t play well here. Looks like you guys got some good remenants with good conditions. I imagine that fetch continued to push swell your way through today.

 

...probably some smallish longer period mixing in too. There were multiple lows way out this past week.

 

had knee to thi leftovers by the pier this morning. only caught a couple but they were fun 30-40 yarders, one left one right. the others weren't so memorable, the knee hi ones. gonna be a while till the next sumtin comes along, good enough to get in the water n late to work

 

Thanks Mitch! Those pics are exactly what I got to ride all day Sunday, with occasional sets almost HH - brought me back! Yeeeeeewwwww!!!!
Looks like we got a beaut on Friday with chest/head and clean again... man I love Indian summer! Water is still mid 70’s too so it’s comfy and trunkin.

 

Been crazy busy this week so i passed on yesterday. Got CR on Monday so trying to make sure my leg is pain free. But dude! I don't know if it was the same one but i saw a crazy rainbow yesterday also at the same time! Good stuff.

Hope all is well man! Thought i saw you a few times this summer but i was mistaken every time. It's been awhile. Hopefully i see you out there soon!

 

Waist high junk on the incoming... wind was wrong, but it was still doable. Had fun on the log.