who here has been surfing this week?

An hour of pretty so-so surf around sunset tonight. It's all I had time for after getting home from work. We actually brought our borts to work, so we could head straight to the beach. It was barely more than knee high. Probably needed the longbort, but had a good time with my two best friend's and nephews. Water is still real warm, but the air was really cool. Back in the 3/2 for the first time in a while. Was good without boots though. Water is still upper 60's.

 

Week two of this...and my wife wonders why I’ve been depressed

Got so stoked up about the fall and all the great swell we were having...

 

It's coming Mr. B. Looks flat all week but next weekend shows some hope for somthing. To far out to be certain but there's hope. Come back down!

 

I know right! Truthfully will look at a mission south - doubtful I’ll have my Ace with me but she’ll be with us in spirit.

 

I'll shoot you a text mid week. It's looking ehhh now. But Saturday might have a waist high wave if the current forecast pans. Winds depending of course. I'll keep my fingers crossed, you keep yours crossed.... we will get waves. Crossing your fingers always works

 

Or doing the banana dance!

 

Surfed Thursday night and Friday afternoon/evening. Both days were a lot of fun.

Went south on Fri and it was kinda macking. Surfed this break full of grom rippers. Some of the best surfers I’ve ever seen out in the water and they were between 9-14. Lined up lefts breaking fast. Rode my Roberts Dreamcatcher and it was the right move. Got some quality time in the green room. Gorgeous sunny fall day and offshores. Could really use more of that soon.

This week looks rough. Good thing I just got the new call of duty.

 

Friday afternoon was the bomb.

 

Fun little LB session this morning / afternoon before work. Nothing special but I needed it. Thigh / waist high windswell breaking outside. With the right footwork I was able to ride each wave most of the way to shore.

 

Snuck in an AM sesh at Croatan before work today to take advantage to the warm water before tonight's cold front hits. First time out since Hurricane/TS Michael. Water in mid 70s, air mid 60s. Offshore breeze. I was the only out there for awhile until another long boarder paddled out right before I had to go to work.
Thigh high at best but clean and semi-glassy. Watched large V-formation of waterfowl flying south - geese, I think but didn't have my glasses. I love autumn.

 

Need to start a new thread: "who hasn't been surfing this week". Waves in the old mid Atlantic are doo doo. Prolly shouldn't complain though - we just had 10 days of surf! Granted close outs were an issue but we did have surf.

 

I got a little more than an hour in this morning / afternoon. It was waist high with a few a little bigger. Light onshore wind making it a little bumpy but not too bad overall. I rode my 6’4” Flashback Fish as a quad, good choice. Red tide apparently has been reported in the area but it didn’t seem bad to me.

 

No one I know.



I’m gonna take up knitting

 

Stomach to Chest high and offshore all morning and early afternoon. Lots of peaks, caught plenty of fun ones in both directions. The 5' 7" Puddle Jumper was the right fit since it was a little softer than as of late. Less of a groundswell component but still plenty of wave.

 

I surfed today.for the first time in a while. Had a metastatic sarcoma removed from my liver 8 weeks ago.

 

Welcome back man, was thinking about you the other day because we haven’t seen you posting in a while. Sorry to hear about the sarcoma, glad you are still here with us.

 

Ok, so you succeeded in both making me feel like a dick and better at the same time lol.
Glad your ok and surfing.

 

I’m going to go for a birthday surf day tomorrow even if it’s knee high slop! Forecast is 2-3’bwith cross off NW wind, mid 40’s and partly sunny
The 2-3 at the buoy will mean chest high f it plays right, but it’s saying choppy and I don’t care. Rewaxed the Roberts, Rawson and the 8’4 mini mal and if Its remotely doeable, I’m gonna surf all dam three

 

Three weeks after red tide first showed up, I finally got back out in some waist high clean, lined up surf in light offshore winds and clear aquamarine water. With a nice mellow crowd, we were mostly on longboards, except for a couple young shredders on mini-simms type craft. Lots of fun was had by all.

Nice long rides - I got 20 waves and saw a dolphin. It was an awesome reintroduction into the real world. Life is goode!

 

Happy Birthday Mr. Biggs - mine was today, and I saw a dolphin while surfing fun waves with cool folk. A beautiful wahine pointed it out to me while we were waiting for a set to appear. Hope you get yours tomorrow brother!