who here has been surfing this week?

Yesterday afternoon was insanely fun around here. Came in to work an hour early, left an hour early, which gave me all of about... 25 minutes in the water. Which I turned into three extremely good and long rides with basically no down time... paddle out by the jetty, catch a wave in about 30 seconds, ride all the way to the beach, sprint back to jetty, repeat twice more.

It's funny, I completely understand the hatred of short sessions by most, especially in wetsuite season, but a very, very high percentage of my best waves every winter come in these 30-40 minute (or less) sessions. I guess part of that is just a numbers game, it's likely most of the best winter conditions will fall on the ~70% of days when I can only get out for 30-40 min, as opposed to the 30% when I can go longer.

But there's more to it than that... I surf differently under extreme time constraints, especially in regard to wave selection. Much less thinking, which means much less overthinking. During longer sessions, I find that on small to medium days I tend to let waves go by thinking there's a better one coming. On bigger days I tend to psych myself out thinking I'm too late, too deep, it's going to close out, one of the deeper guys paddling for it is gonna get it, etc. Not always of course, but it definitely happens. And it's so clear when I compare it to a day like yesterday, where I know on a very subconscious level that I better go for anything that looks decent or I'm gonna get skunked.

Of course I'd prefer a 3 hour session in waves like yesterday. But it's crazy how many of the sessions where I'm just completely on, and it feels like all the set waves come to me with zero wait and no matter how many other people are out, no else competes for the ones I want, are the ones that are so short most of my friends wouldn't even bother trying to paddle out.

 

I agree with this 100%. Glad you got yourself some!

 

Wind switch at around 3pm yesterday doomed us. By the time things cleaned up it was just about dark. Swell peaked around 10pm (perfect groomed waves for sure), then died out by morning with wicked stiff offshores. This time of year it's all about timing.

 

Good stuff....looks like everyone's been scoring. It seems like we've had waves more than we haven't lately. I love surfing as the sun sets but I don't seem to do it as much as while the sun rises. I guess that has something to do with the wind and summertime but when the sun sets at like 4:30p now there really isn't another options. It's been nice having offshores late in the day and surfing until you can't see. I've been sticking close to the house but made a trip to Carolina Beach yesterday because the wind directions were better. It was fun but holy hell the bugs were insane from the abnormally warm weather/storm. I'm not one to normally bitch about that kind of thing but it was downright gross. At one point I was literally scraping bugs out of my eyes with business cards. It was like Naked and Afraid but I was dressed and full. I'm ready for a little cooler weather myself!!!

 

I'm still wearing a Springer at fb. Just say'in.

 

But I guess you’ve got a great point too lol - took my wife telling me to look at it alittle differently hahaha... I’d be way more paranoid down there than here! But like I said about maybe tripping down to Buxton NC, It’s actually more of a thought in my mind than up here lol

 

Today I paddled out 30 minutes before 1st light when the stars were still out. Think there were any big fish in the area?

 

Another fun session before first light this morning, waist - chest with larger sets as the tide switched. Cold front rolling through with offshore wind, clean and peaky, super fun!!!

 

Yeah, YOU.

I went to do a DP yesterday predawn... slipped on the ice in the front door walkway and went back to bed hahahahaha
Not for shin high thigh high with 20mph crossoffs and 16degrees - yet.

 

Kudos for 12 days in C.R., you might want to house hunt since Amazon announcement anticipating double digit appreciation so we're good spending it on S.I. Group Home.

Give my best to Rue & Harry

 

No kidding. Super fun, I was north of 2nd light, had a blast on the fish. Been surfing everyday since I've been here

 

Glad you got some too!

 

going to be absolute epic tomorrow morning in nj.and I will be at work.

 

Sick day for a sick day?

 

All my shit at work is done... the MD buoy is reading 16ft@ 10 seconds... I'm calling out.

 

Peace

 

Today in Brevard County, FL

 

Glassy, crunchy waves today. Not my best surfing but caught a few screamers. Two left feet first time in full suite.

 

i was "sick" yesterday. partly sunny my azz weatherman, it was windy n brrrr. sat up at N Washout, first sess was a run all the way down to S Washout with the drift. paddled out with my hair dry, that was nice. shoulder hi for most of the day, clean slabs w softer push but heavier. 2nd sess i put on the booties, one of the few with them out there. no more drift by noon, buddy finally got out there. onto the 3rd sess, and the noodle arms continued. had a couple down to shore, somewhat of a business decision to pull out on others, but had easily 30 plus waves in the maybe 4 hr water time. had a good backside with some size going to my left but overall it was just a good time to be in the water. the waves were peeling nice throughout n def warmed up to some beers at the beach thereafter. gonna get some this wknd, might even put my booties back on

 

Forecast for tomorrow morning up here looks like a mirage - great surf at 3am and dying down. That usually means when I check the cams at 7am, it's already knee high sets. Fingers crossed that the swell hangs in there...